Porsche script

Hi friends, Was wondering if i buy the 5 pin Porsche script from Stoddard , that the pins are long enough to get through my cmc speedster? Anyone know how long the pins are? Thanks

Bob,
Doubtful. Most folks just use a heavy duty double sided tape or glue. I just glued the posts into the holes so I didn't do anything to the paint under the script.

I snip the posts off and use 3M dbl sided moulding tape.

Bob, like Mickey I use glue. After drilling the mounting holes, I place the script in position and put a small dob of expoxy from the inside on the pins - mine have NEVER gone far enough through to put the plastic retainer caps SECURELY on!

One problem I have found in the past is that the pins are often not at right-angles to the script. When you push the script on, you sometimes need to very slightly bend the pin or have had the hole slightly angled. I have had the pot-metal pins break off for this reason!

You're doing the right-thing in buying from Stoddard. In the past I have bought cheaper script and within a few months had a green oxidization occur. I guess not all pot-metal's are equal!

Regards, Mike.

The glue around the perimeter of the hole also helps the fiberglass from rusting. :>)

Thanks guys, I think the glue method sounds best, and no rusting too lol

If the glue method give you any trouble, you can shoot down to the hobbyshop with your script and get a short length of brass or aluminum tubing to slide over the pins and lengthen them accordingly. Drill slightly bigger holes, epoxy/JB Weld to hold the short lengths of tubing to the studs, and a dab of silicone on the back side of the body to hold everything in place.

My local hobby shop has all of the weirdest and coolest stuff for model trains, planes, and automobiles with a million other uses for it in the full sized world.

Just saying . . .

Or grind the back of the fiberglass with a dremel tool so it's thinner than 1/4" around where the pins stick thru. Can just do a small circle the size of the fastener clip.

I did what Wolfgang suggested.

One more question? Should I buy the 8.5in or the 10 in? My shine down light is about 10 in.... thanks

BTW..ya gotta watch how much polishing you do on some of these pieces. The gold color plating will rub off. Rub very lightly!

~WB

Go for the 8.5" The 10" appeared on the later 356's in the 60's.

Also remember to carefully straighten the script such that the bottom line on which the letters sit is straight. It's a pet peeve of mine that I'll see that someone went to great trouble to mount a difficult part to work with, and then the things not straight!

Oh, and I first made a template of a thin (1/8" or thinner) piece of scrap plexiglass (the acrylic stuff you get at Home Depot, etc). Place the script on it, locate the pin positions and then drill holes through the plexiglass.

I then put the script into the holes, position both so they look good where I want them (you'll find that wherever you want to mount them it is curved, making hole placement a bit more difficult) and then tape the plexiglass down to the car (if you make it 2-3" larger than the script the taping is easier). Remove the script and use the template to carefully drill your holes.

This way, not only does the script line up with the template holes, the holes are slightly angled correctly to match the shape of the body and the script lines up with the body holes as well.

I glued mine into the holes, but others have used TC's pin-lengthening method quite successfully (but you still have to drill those holes!)

I've often thought while building the current car, that it would make a LOT of sense for someone to make positioning templates for everything on the car and then sell copies of them to others. Things like the steering column hole in the firewall, Windshield corner posts, rear light positions, door handles, side window pegs, top bow pivot point, gauges (several variations) and dash switches, that sort of stuff. If I were going into low volume production I would have a set of templates to really shorten up the build time as a LOT of time is spent screwing around measuring and checking pictures and stuff.

There is a set of ancient windshield post templates floating around, but they're more suggestions than actual templates - they get you in the ball park, but you could be anywhere in the ballpark).

Just thinking........

I tapped the pins and used micro nylon locknuts . you need to sand the inside to get um started ,but its a clean look..

Barry...would you give us a little more detail on how you did it? I kind of had the same idea.
Paul

I sniped off the posts and used "Emblem Glue" . Looks great, strong hold, and easy.