Any tips on how to install the ''Porsche''script on the front of the car?
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Any tips on how to install the ''Porsche''script on the front of the car?
Boy that is a great question. Are there diagrams with dimensions showing placement of all badging for our little beauties? Also the Porsche script on the front of my car is just hanging there with no clips or anything to hold it. What is the recommended method for keeping them in place?
TM
TM
And what is the best method to remove the scripts temporarally? If I remember correctly, in Germany/Austria no Porsche scripts are allowed at the time of the car registration. Could the removal damage the paint (or the scripts)?
Andreas
Andreas
Hi guys,
The obvious problem we face is that the fibreglass is too thick
for the script's studs to pass completely through
This topic has come up in the past and, as I recall there are 3 ways to do this
1. Epoxy the studs into the holes you drilled
This is more or less a permanent solution - so make sure
you are happy with your car's colour ;-)
2. You could thin out the fibreglass behind the holes with
a drill burr to allow the studs to pass completely through.
Not really a good idea as you are damaging the fibreglass
3. This is the elegant solution that I am going to use
Buy some brass tubing of the appropriate diameter to just
slide over the studs (Model Hobby shops will stock this)
Cut off to the required length and superglue them onto the studs
You will then be able to use the standard emblem and script
fasteners stocked by aftermarket suppliers
With grateful acknowledgements to the author of the original post
Regards,
Mitch
My tip for bending the script:
Place a piece of cloth over the Porsche script to protect it from scratches and push it firmly against the inside of the body where you want to place it - to give it the required curve for a smooth fit on the outside
The obvious problem we face is that the fibreglass is too thick
for the script's studs to pass completely through
This topic has come up in the past and, as I recall there are 3 ways to do this
1. Epoxy the studs into the holes you drilled
This is more or less a permanent solution - so make sure
you are happy with your car's colour ;-)
2. You could thin out the fibreglass behind the holes with
a drill burr to allow the studs to pass completely through.
Not really a good idea as you are damaging the fibreglass
3. This is the elegant solution that I am going to use
Buy some brass tubing of the appropriate diameter to just
slide over the studs (Model Hobby shops will stock this)
Cut off to the required length and superglue them onto the studs
You will then be able to use the standard emblem and script
fasteners stocked by aftermarket suppliers
With grateful acknowledgements to the author of the original post
Regards,
Mitch
My tip for bending the script:
Place a piece of cloth over the Porsche script to protect it from scratches and push it firmly against the inside of the body where you want to place it - to give it the required curve for a smooth fit on the outside
Mitch thanks a lot for the info.
Mitch:
That third solution is truly elegant. Should have thought about that before I epoxied mine in place!
To add to this thread, is the answer to: "How do I get the holes in the body for the studs just right? They're not even in a straight line OR equally spaced..."
For this, I used a piece of corrugated cardboard, of the kind that's 1/8" thick or so (cut up a packing box). Cut the cardboard a little larger (length and width) than the script you're mounting, place the cardboard on a hard, flat surface and firmly press the script studs into it, making dimples where the studs are. STEP 2: Get a piece of clear plexiglass, about 1/8" thick, and cut it to about the same size as the cardboard (Home Depot and DIY's sell a nifty plexiglass knife that lets you score and break plexiglass just like real glass). Line up the cardboard over the plexiglass, tape it in place and then drill out the locations of the dimples with a drill one size larger than the studs. Once that is done, you have a clear template of the stud locations that will "register" (hold the locations of the holes more closely when you drill the body).
Insert the logo into the plexiglass and position it where you want it on the body, taping the plexiglass to the body with blue (medium sitck-um) masking tape. The beauty of the Lexan, is that it curves to fit the body just as the logo does, so everything fits when finally assembled.
Remove the logo, and slowly (Run the drill very slowly) and carefully (don't press very hard on the drill) drill out the hole locations in the plexiglass. Don't use a new drill for this......A dull drill is much better than a sharp drill for this, as you want to break through the paint and gel coat slowly to prevent chipping. You could also place a piece of regular (non-blue) masking tape on the body under the plexiglass (firmly pressing it onto the body), but I've seen mixed results from this trick. the best thing might be to use the tape AND drill slowly with light pressure.
Once the holes are carefully drilled, I would use Mitch's tip of the brass tubing on the studs and then get some tinnerman nuts (press-on trim stud retainers, sized for the tubing - local hardware stores usually have them) to hold everything on.
Que Bueno! You're done! and you didn't even have to epoxy them in place!
Gordon
"One of the Speedstah Guys from Rhode Island"
Oh! Almost forgot! Make sure you gently straighten out the logo so it has a clean line and is un-bent BEFORE you do the press-into-cardboard trick. I've seen a LOT of cars with logos that look like they've been through a Tornado because whoever installed them just put them on without making them straight first.
That third solution is truly elegant. Should have thought about that before I epoxied mine in place!
To add to this thread, is the answer to: "How do I get the holes in the body for the studs just right? They're not even in a straight line OR equally spaced..."
For this, I used a piece of corrugated cardboard, of the kind that's 1/8" thick or so (cut up a packing box). Cut the cardboard a little larger (length and width) than the script you're mounting, place the cardboard on a hard, flat surface and firmly press the script studs into it, making dimples where the studs are. STEP 2: Get a piece of clear plexiglass, about 1/8" thick, and cut it to about the same size as the cardboard (Home Depot and DIY's sell a nifty plexiglass knife that lets you score and break plexiglass just like real glass). Line up the cardboard over the plexiglass, tape it in place and then drill out the locations of the dimples with a drill one size larger than the studs. Once that is done, you have a clear template of the stud locations that will "register" (hold the locations of the holes more closely when you drill the body).
Insert the logo into the plexiglass and position it where you want it on the body, taping the plexiglass to the body with blue (medium sitck-um) masking tape. The beauty of the Lexan, is that it curves to fit the body just as the logo does, so everything fits when finally assembled.
Remove the logo, and slowly (Run the drill very slowly) and carefully (don't press very hard on the drill) drill out the hole locations in the plexiglass. Don't use a new drill for this......A dull drill is much better than a sharp drill for this, as you want to break through the paint and gel coat slowly to prevent chipping. You could also place a piece of regular (non-blue) masking tape on the body under the plexiglass (firmly pressing it onto the body), but I've seen mixed results from this trick. the best thing might be to use the tape AND drill slowly with light pressure.
Once the holes are carefully drilled, I would use Mitch's tip of the brass tubing on the studs and then get some tinnerman nuts (press-on trim stud retainers, sized for the tubing - local hardware stores usually have them) to hold everything on.
Que Bueno! You're done! and you didn't even have to epoxy them in place!
Gordon
"One of the Speedstah Guys from Rhode Island"
Oh! Almost forgot! Make sure you gently straighten out the logo so it has a clean line and is un-bent BEFORE you do the press-into-cardboard trick. I've seen a LOT of cars with logos that look like they've been through a Tornado because whoever installed them just put them on without making them straight first.
With regards to placement the 356 book by Dr. B. Johnson says that the rear script is placed about 3" underneath the deck lid. I used 3M plastic emblem & trim adhesive; it's available at any auto parts store. It's clear and flexible too (a real plus in fiberglass cars).
Just remember that there is a curve that needs to be respected. Some holes should be drilled a little angled so that the script does not scrunch up....
Anyone know the correct position of the reuter badge for the fender mount?
"The Reutter Coachbuilder's badge, the design of which changed several times during the life of the 356 family was fitted to the lower part of the front wing, behind the wheel"
It's about midway between the rear edge of the wheel well and the front edge of the door, about 5" to the bottom of the badge from the bottom edge of the car.
The quote is from Porsche 356 Restorer's Guide by Laurenc Meredith. You can see a good picture of the badge on page 36 of that book. If you need a photo, I'll try to download one. But, not all 356's were Reutter bodies. Could be Gmund, or Karmann, or Drauz depending upon the model which your car replicates.
It's about midway between the rear edge of the wheel well and the front edge of the door, about 5" to the bottom of the badge from the bottom edge of the car.
The quote is from Porsche 356 Restorer's Guide by Laurenc Meredith. You can see a good picture of the badge on page 36 of that book. If you need a photo, I'll try to download one. But, not all 356's were Reutter bodies. Could be Gmund, or Karmann, or Drauz depending upon the model which your car replicates.
Picture, if you will, the old "Reutter Bodiwerks" where many of the early 356 bodies were built. There is Heinz, the new factory worker, toiling away on the body he and his buddies are building this week.
"Vell, ve're almost finished mit Dis von!" he exclaims to his supervisor, Helmut, a dour man with a much too serious outlook on life. "Gud!, says Helmut, 'Time to put der Reutters Badge on der side und show it's finished!"
"Where should I put it?", asks Heinz. "Yah, just find und good spot on der side behind der wheel and center-it up.....as long as it looks nice, is Vunderbar!", "Besides, vee here at Reutters are not perfectionists like der guys at Gmund!"exclaims Helmut.
Years later, tens of restorers and replica builders around the world agonize about exactly where to place their reproduction badge.
"Vell, ve're almost finished mit Dis von!" he exclaims to his supervisor, Helmut, a dour man with a much too serious outlook on life. "Gud!, says Helmut, 'Time to put der Reutters Badge on der side und show it's finished!"
"Where should I put it?", asks Heinz. "Yah, just find und good spot on der side behind der wheel and center-it up.....as long as it looks nice, is Vunderbar!", "Besides, vee here at Reutters are not perfectionists like der guys at Gmund!"exclaims Helmut.
Years later, tens of restorers and replica builders around the world agonize about exactly where to place their reproduction badge.
Good one, Gordon!
That reminds me years ago a friend of mine had a Rabbit GTI. Back in the days when that was a cool and quite fast car. He had an electrical problem and brought it into the dealer and said well can't you just put some electrical tape and that'll fix the problem.
The answer was, "dis iz cherman egineering, ve don jus put electrical tape anyver"
The answer was, "dis iz cherman egineering, ve don jus put electrical tape anyver"
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You guys crack me up. This site is better than the newspaper in the morning with my coffee.
Love it Gord!....
Gordon .........pricless post!
ACHTUNG!
Das Speedster Motorwerken ist not fer gertouchen by das dumbkopf!
Ist easy fer das finger-poken und mitten-grabben to snappen der springwerk, scratchen der colorwerks, und flippen der switches mit spitzensparken!
Ist better if das rubber necken, sightseeren should keepen das hands in das pockets und no breakin das Speedsterwerk!
Danka....
Das Speedster Motorwerken ist not fer gertouchen by das dumbkopf!
Ist easy fer das finger-poken und mitten-grabben to snappen der springwerk, scratchen der colorwerks, und flippen der switches mit spitzensparken!
Ist better if das rubber necken, sightseeren should keepen das hands in das pockets und no breakin das Speedsterwerk!
Danka....
Another good one!!...
Mitch,
Took your elegant solution and got some copper tubing from the hobby shop (cut to 1/2" length is perfect). Now for the question: any clue where can find clips to hold them. Since the OD of the tubing is greater than the tabs on the script the old clamps are too small.
Troy
Took your elegant solution and got some copper tubing from the hobby shop (cut to 1/2" length is perfect). Now for the question: any clue where can find clips to hold them. Since the OD of the tubing is greater than the tabs on the script the old clamps are too small.
Troy
Troy, Cut tubing longer than 1/2" , drill small holes at the 3/8"(or whatever) location and use hitchpin clips through the holes; that way you can remove the script easily if necessary. TOM
Or....go to just about any ACE hardware store, and ask for Tinnerman nuts for the size shaft that is the OD of your tubing...
They are the little sheetmetal pieces with a hole in the middle and are designed to be pushed onto a threaded or non-threaded shaft and, once puched on, they bite into the shaft to prevent them from coming off.
Home Depot has them, too.
The dis-advantage is that they're quite hard to remove, once installed (but your script will never fall off).
Just about any good autobody shop has them, too.
They are the little sheetmetal pieces with a hole in the middle and are designed to be pushed onto a threaded or non-threaded shaft and, once puched on, they bite into the shaft to prevent them from coming off.
Home Depot has them, too.
The dis-advantage is that they're quite hard to remove, once installed (but your script will never fall off).
Just about any good autobody shop has them, too.
Glue :)
Und haendel das Porscheskritpen mit great kare, or id bin gebroken. Use keine amaturen werkmenn on das projekt und der resulten bin zehr gutt. Verstehen zie?
Count Hossen Von Halltranden
Count Hossen Von Halltranden