...and Paul was never heard from again...
Better the disappointment come up front, rather than leading the poor guy on until he's got a real need for something, then finding out we're a bunch of brass-thingy losers. This is pretty much what we have to offer.
It's fortunate that Paul's first post was not putting something for sale here-- hoo, baby! Those guys really get the full-on SOC experience.
Hey guys I believe Paul was inquiring about Theron's VS he will be selling, not what colors are classic
"I'll have 2 up for sale next week. One a classic Vintage Speedster 1776cc, the second an Intermeccanica with a classic body, but outlaw look and 2180cc.
-theron"
Get the Vintage with the 2180!!
Hello all, I'm still here, and still looking, and still learning 
Did you see the blank slate for 13,000? Can't beat that.
No, I did not
https://www.speedsterowners.com...ster-4-sale-1994-cmc
I'm not sure what you're looking for, but this isn't a horrible starter speedster. Mine was 2k more when I started a few years ago. A guy could do a hell of a lot worse!
Ted
Going to pass on that one. Not really wanting a fixer upper. Thanks for keeping an eye out for me! 
If you are still looking, I have two speedsters builds going on . 1st is a flared custom street rod look is 60% done with a 9/1 completion date. The 2nd is a classic body style that I'll start on in September and can be built to your wishes in under a 20 week build time line.
Now THERE's an idea!
I'm interested, tell me more. (the classic speedster)
The intermeccanica is posted here and www.driventoys.com
The VS is in the coming soon section of www.driventoys.com I hope to have it posted on Mon-Tues.
-=theron
Paul, If you want to touch base with Theron first that's fine too... Alan
There you go. Get one from either of these two and you'll be a happy camper...
It does sound good to me. I would much rather buy from someone that has a good reputation and willing to help someone out than a person just wanting to make a quick buck & screw ya over!!
Troy, Alan, and Theron ALL sound like real great standup people!!
Everyone on this site has nothing but good things to say about them... that says alot about them!!!
I dunno... Troy and Theron are some of those California weirdos - can't trust them - and Alan, well he's a poopiehead. 
Let's face it, Lane, they're all poopieheads! And to be honest, I've been wondering about you too...
We'll have to come up with a Poopiehead Pride Flag..
Sew a chin strap on it and you have the club driving helmet.
Ok, that's really funny guys!
Ok gentleman, need some help, ideas & input. What should I lookfor/have for my Porsche speedster 356 replica. Bigger engine, better transmission gears for both around town and freeway driving, front swaybay, front disk brakes & drums in the back, 4 bolt wheels, what else... thoughts and suggestions and support... PLEASE! Thank you :-)
It's gonna be tough to get us back to being serious, but I'll try to kick it off. A lot depends on your budget and tastes.
ENGINE: Some folks swear that the only way to experience these cars properly is to go air-cooled, while others rave about Subaru-powered performance and reliability. I currently have an air-cooled car but am going Subi-powered on my next one. You can get 175 easy horses out of a stock, normally aspirated EJ25. Getting that kind of power from an air-cooled engine takes some doing and will likely be pretty high-strung. HP/$$ is also higher with Subi power, but the low-end is probably more expensive than a low-end air-cooled. How much power you need depends on:
- How much do you want to spend?
- How do you plan to drive it?
You'll have to answer those questions before we can help further.
TRANSMISSION: Don't cheap-out here as it's tough to change later. I went with a Rancho Pro-Street and couldn't be happier with it.
BRAKES: Definitely disks on front. I would recommend disks on the rear as well because I absolutely detest adjusting drums. You probably don't need rear disks unless you're doing some serious hi-po driving. There have been some issues with getting good rear disk kits as well. Others can offer more advice here.
FRONT SUSPENSION: The basic Beetle beam (a little alliteration for y'all) has been adequate for most folks forever. If you don't mind spending the money and want the performance there are more modern setups available from folks like Coolrydes (Kevin Zagar) Customs. A front sway bar is recommended.
REAR SUSPENSION: IRS is better than swing axle, but less common. If you have swing axles, get a camber compensator. If you have IRS, get a sway bar.
SHIFTER: I strongly recommend a better shifter as it really improves the driving experience. I love my CSP and others love their Vintage Speedster or Berg shifters.
Gotta leave for a meeting. Hope this helps.
Just to clarify. I'm pretty sure that Lane meant Vintage Speed shifter, not Vintage Speedsters shifter. Vintage Speed is not related to Vintage Speedsters.
Vintage Speedsters typically uses the standard VW shifter, probably from Empi. Nothing wrong with it, but some people prefer the custom shifters over the stock shifter.
Thanks Lane, good stuff
Good point Troy
Troy Sloan posted:Just to clarify. I'm pretty sure that Lane meant Vintage Speed shifter, not Vintage Speedsters shifter.
Ohh... I love my Vintage Speed shifter. So much so, I have two. 
One four speed (soon to be removed) and a five speed version!
Quality stuff coming out of Taiwan!
Ted
Troy's right. Thanks for catching that.
x2 on Vintage Speed shifters...
Mechanicals:
Motor: 1915 is a great motor, it's reliable and does not cross over into the cooling issues larger motors have and need to be addressed with additional oil cooler. Remote oil filter is a plus .Transmission: Depends on how you plan on driving it, a stock 3:88 will be fine as long as you don't make it a habit of dumping the clutch etc...A Freeway Flyer is a plus with a taller 4th gear. Sway bar: Front sway bar is recommend the stock 3/8" bar unless you get " spirited" Brakes: Go with discs all around this eliminates adjustments and you get a safe reliable brakes. Shocks: Stock oil shocks are fine gas KYB's will give you a firmer ride. Shifter: Many choices out there.
I believe Jim Ignacio has put tens of thousands of miles on his 'zippy enough' and most reliable (with a capital R) 1915cc engine. I do believe the Man and his navigator Ginny have cruised (in style) every navigable highway and scenic back road in California...Who could ask for more?
I think Jim had a mexi-crate 1835 with dual kadrons in his original 100K/Mile silver car. His new black bat mobile runs the 1915. Not that it matters. The point is that 1835/1915 seems to be a good middle ground for performance/longevity/reliability.
T
That's why I went that route. I have nearly 50k miles on my CB 1915.
If I were rational, I'd do a 2L Type 4 and never look back.
What does rational have to do with our cars Stan.
Personally, I found the 1800cc while surely more reliable a bit anemic but then I tried a 2110cc and I lived with it for 5 years with no issues. Now, living with a 2.5L subie and it's a totally different car.
Ah, the engine debate.
So it seems that the upgraded jugs on the Type 1 are about the minimum people can live with. A typical 1915 is probably 90 horses. Pat Downs builds them standard at 120 hp. That's 2x a stock 1600. And that's a pretty fast ride in a sub-2000-pound package.
For comparison purposes, the out-of-the-box Subaru 2.2 is rated at 137 hp. In my TD replica (1800 pounds with me in the driver's seat) that's a little unsettling. I find myself blowing through 80 mph all the time on highway on-ramps & don't feel the car is ready for higher speeds. So I back off—and shift to 4th gear.
A Speedster has better chassis stiffening but the shorter wheelbase can make it a little more complicated and demanding to set up. You can make these cars go about as fast as you want but there doesn't seem much point to it, to me. You want to relax and look cool, not try to beat all those irritating fart-canned ricers. You are above them.
If I were building one scratch I'd probably do a stock crank engine, 1835 or 1915, carefully built with quality parts, probably by Pat. Rancho with a 3.88 R&P and a .92 4th, because I'd need to win the lottery to afford a 5-speed.
If I were rehabbing one—especially a Cabriolet—I'd probably find another low-mileage, early '90s Legacy and stuff that engine in there. It's a hassle, work-wise, but worth it. Rancho with a 3.44 R&P and a .92 4th. Because I know that combo is sweet, sweet, sweet (scary) in my car.
One more thing, re suspension modifications: do not use a larger front sway bar unless you also use a large rear sway bar. These cars want to understeer—plow—and the bigger front bar will make them do it even more. Some builders use no front bar and that seems to work. The stock skinny Beetle bar is the most you need unless you're going for auto-cross glory...