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I'm starting mock up my new components for my build. I am looking forward to doing a little DIY port polishing of my heads. When mocking up I noted my intake manifold is moderately offset on the head creating a noticeable ledge between the two.

I'm not completely clear that reshaping the head a bit to remove the ledge will adversely effect the velocity of the ports? The build is mild... but I hate to leave HP on the table. I will need to cut the head a bit on one side to remove the ledge. On the opposite side I will need to cut the intake manifold to match up the manifold?

Thank you for the help.
George

I couldn't really get a decent pic of the ledge... the ledge is exposed roughly 1/3 of the fitting.

1957 CMC(Flared Speedster)
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I'm starting mock up my new components for my build. I am looking forward to doing a little DIY port polishing of my heads. When mocking up I noted my intake manifold is moderately offset on the head creating a noticeable ledge between the two.

I'm not completely clear that reshaping the head a bit to remove the ledge will adversely effect the velocity of the ports? The build is mild... but I hate to leave HP on the table. I will need to cut the head a bit on one side to remove the ledge. On the opposite side I will need to cut the intake manifold to match up the manifold?

Thank you for the help.
George

I couldn't really get a decent pic of the ledge... the ledge is exposed roughly 1/3 of the fitting.

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  • Intakeportmatch
You can do 1 of 2 things... You can use a very high quality Devcon style epoxy and fill in intake, and reshape, or, cut into the head. It depends on what you want to sacrifice here. I built race engines for 15 years when I was racing cars and go karts. I still have my flow bench, and this is just my opinion.... I would start by cutting the head to match. Then, if you really want to make it worth the 2 horsepower you might get out of that, you can mount the carb and make sure the carb is mated up. Personally, it's not going to make 5 HP more unless you are pulling 600+ CFM through that 1 runner. Which I am almost certain you are not.

Below is an example of a race carb that I built that won the Daytona 500 of karts back a few years ago. The carburetor has step venturi's and is ultimately a 400 cfm 30mm Carburetor. You can see a tiny little ridge in that carb, which cost's about 2 cfm (cubic feet per minute)... which is almost unmeasurable. Having said that though, if you find 10 little things like that, you now have 20 cfm in the green. So it really takes a few things like this to see much improvement.

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  • Daytona Spyder 002
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