Possible Alternator Problem

Is it new or a new build --- or older build and engine just redone?  What's the alternator dash light doing - flickering or on steady --- or not on ever? Was it maybe generator before.  Trying to rule out wiring.

On the crank case venting.  I'd recommend you add a breather box to cut down on oil spray contaminating/cloughing the carb jets.  Cost is less than $40 total. There are a few styles. I like the 356ish look of the CB Performance one. (EMPI makes them too and there EMPI is ok).

 

Hey Wolfgang

The new motor is a new build.  The Alternator is from the previous motor.  I don't remember seeing the alternator light come on when it died, but I am not sure.  I just check.  When I turn the key to power on, the alternator light turns on.  When I start the car it immediately goes off.

Did get the EMPI breather box like the CB performance one on the left in your pictures.  I just need some 90 degree elbows to install it.  I am not sure if I am going to vent the value covers or not.

Check the bulb as the bulb must be working it's part of the charging system.

Pete

With the engine running if you remove the cable from the positive side of the battery does your engine die?

That's always my first check for a bad alternator. Also, do this after the engine has warmed up and you are experiencing the problem.

Another thing to check is that your engine and charging system is properly grounded with nothing loose, corroded, etc.

Thanks Rusty

I will give those things a try.  I know my battery ground is good.  After experiencing the car die a few times.  I replace the battery ground with a new cable and instead of grounding to the frame, I grounded it to the engine.  Also, I check the trans ground strap and it seemed ok.  

Pete

I know the bub works because it light up the key turn to the one position.

Ok, I started the car and unhooked the positive cable at the battery.  Volts from the alternator jump to 14.2.  So I think the alternator is good.  We took the car out again tonight and after five minutes it stalled and didn't want to start.  We had to wait about 15 minutes and then it fired up.  I think the starter I have is too weak.  I just ordered an IMI 101 hi torque starter.  I think that will help a little to at least make restarting easier.  The engine is 2276 with 9.2 compression so it not a monster engine.

The mystery is still trying to figure out why the car dies.   This last time, the motor wasn't hot at all.  The fan shroud was just barely warm.   I am wonder if there might be something wrong with coil or the distributor.  It is a Magna spark II distributor and coil.

Could it possibly be vapor lock? Do you have fuel lines routing too close to heat sources. I think that might explain this behavior.
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Bobby D posted:

Ok, I started the car and unhooked the positive cable at the battery.  Volts from the alternator jump to 14.2.  So I think the alternator is good.  We took the car out again tonight and after five minutes it stalled and didn't want to start.  We had to wait about 15 minutes and then it fired up.  I think the starter I have is too weak.  I just ordered an IMI 101 hi torque starter.  I think that will help a little to at least make restarting easier.  The engine is 2276 with 9.2 compression so it not a monster engine.

The mystery is still trying to figure out why the car dies.   This last time, the motor wasn't hot at all.  The fan shroud was just barely warm.   I am wonder if there might be something wrong with coil or the distributor.  It is a Magna spark II distributor and coil.

Is it the CB Performance dry coil pack? When I first put my Magnaspark Dist and Dry Coil Pack in my car I had a bum coil. The car would start and run fine for a few minutes and then would start to hesitate and die. It wouldn't start for about 5-10 minutes, which is the amount of time it took for the coil to coil off a little, then it would restart. You didn't mention how the car behaved before it dies, did it sputter, stutter, shudder, miss, or run rough before it quit? Or did it just quit? I suppose each car could behave differently but mine ran rough then died. I put in the new coil and it has been running great ever since.

 

Tom

My fuel lines are not near a heat source.  I have them enter the engine bay from the top shelf of the fire wall.  So I don't think that is the problem.

 

Robert

You might be right about the dry coil pack.  I still have my old coil, so I might hook that up and see what happens.  In terms of the car's behavior, it runs great and then just dies.  There is no sputter or anything, just stalls.

 

Bobby D posted:

Tom

My fuel lines are not near a heat source.  I have them enter the engine bay from the top shelf of the fire wall.  So I don't think that is the problem.

 

Robert

You might be right about the dry coil pack.  I still have my old coil, so I might hook that up and see what happens.  In terms of the car's behavior, it runs great and then just dies.  There is no sputter or anything, just stalls.

 

My dry coil would overheat which caused the spark to not be consistent or it would short across the coil. Once I replaced it everything worked great. Good luck.

So Robert... sounds like the coil needs to coil off.

Robert

If my old coil solves the problem, I will try to get CBP to give me a replacement.  

Bobby D posted:

Robert

If my old coil solves the problem, I will try to get CBP to give me a replacement.  

That would be very coil of them to give you a replacement.

So, as a comparison, does the magnaspark setup make a noticeable difference in performance?

Rusty

I don't have a basis for comparison.  My old motor had a magna spark II as well.  But it had a Bosh coil.  When the car are is running, It runs great.  I am running it with the medium springs that came installed on it.

Rusty S posted:

Bobby D posted:

Robert

If my old coil solves the problem, I will try to get CBP to give me a replacement.  

That would be very coil of them to give you a replacement.

So, as a comparison, does the magnaspark setup make a noticeable difference in performance?

I had an old Bosch coil and dizzy in my car when I got it and the Magnaspark w/ dry coil is much nicer. Very consistent spark and no hesitation. The advance was very easy to set and the rates are customizable with the different springs. 99% of the people who get it will/should set it up with the already installed spring set which are the light silver springs IIRC. The dry coil is capable of producing/maintaining a much higher amperage for the spark and it reduces/eliminates "spark chatter" so the spark is much more consistent.

How coil is that Rusty?

Question for you guys

I am expecting to get our IMI 101 Hi-torque starter today.  I understand it does not need the 12 V bushing in the bell housing.  Does that mean I have to remove the bushing?  Can that bushing be pulled out easily?

Bobby D posted:

Question for you guys

I am expecting to get our IMI 101 Hi-torque starter today.  I understand it does not need the 12 V bushing in the bell housing.  Does that mean I have to remove the bushing?  Can that bushing be pulled out easily?

@Bobby D

Did you try the other coil yet?

Yes I tried and it seemed to run find.  But then one of the locking nuts on the throttle linkage to the car came loose and the throttle got stuck.  We had to shut did down.  Had a hard time getting it started again but finally got it home.  The old starter just can't seem to crank once that motor gets warm.  So I want to get the new hi torque starter in before we go out again and give the coils a 2nd test.   I pulled the old starter out and need to know If I have removing the old bushing from the bell housing before install.

 

As I recall I just bolted mine up as the drive gear is supported by the motor housing, unlike the original which uses the sleeve in the bell housing.

Bobby D posted:

one of the locking nuts on the throttle linkage to the car came loose and the throttle got stuck. 

Two words: Sync Link

Everyone wants to make the hexbar work. Just say no to the hexbar. 

Suspect the hi-torque starter is like the semi-auto starter and the Porsche 914 starter - the starter gear is internally supported and the shaft it runs on does not extend into the trans bearing.  

Bobby D posted:

Question for you guys

I am expecting to get our IMI 101 Hi-torque starter today.  I understand it does not need the 12 V bushing in the bell housing.  Does that mean I have to remove the bushing?  Can that bushing be pulled out easily?

Mine bolted right in with removing nothing. 

Ok, new starter in and she fired right up.  I reset the carb linkage and balanced them out.  Going to sit down eat a little dinner then (cross my fingers) take it out for ride.  With chase car for insurance.

@Bobby D, How are things going?   Once you get things sorted out, we should go for a cruise somewhere... Maybe Hocking Hills?