Post Caster Adj. Question

You "stretched" the steering column 1/2" or so.  I'd check the rag-joint (actually rubber) and the connectors to shaft and steering box.  If it has collapse-able section - check it for cracks/fractures. It changed the angle of steering shaft slightly too - the shaft outer cover was fiberglassed as it went thru the front "firewall."

OK, let's think through this one:

 

1.  You added about 3/16" thickness behind the bottom tube.  That should not change the length of the steering column appreciably, but it WILL cause the steering coupler to rotate down very slightly (I would think, about Wolfie's 1/2" dimension) so check, as he said, to make sure that the steering shaft is still clear of rubbing the column tube where it comes out of the firewall.

 

"If I grab the 'fork' that comes out of the bottom of the steering box and pull on it it wiggles a little and if I move it sharply with the steering wheel it will make a clicking noise almost like it's going through a transition of some kind when it goes from a turn one way to the other."

 

ooooooooh....Not good.  That arm on the bottom is the Pitman arm and should not be wiggling about.  Get a BIG wrench on it and torque it up really tight (someone have the torque spec that Lane used? - Lane??)  If it's moving left and right or in and out, that usually means your steering box has excess play and may need to be adjusted or replaced (I don't know how old it is). 

 

First I have heard this but know there is play in it if I pull it up and down from the bottom of the box.  Could this just be a steering box play adjustment?

 

Yes - Consult a VW service manual for your suspected year of pan and adjust it per their instructions, but I think most of the problem is in the loose Pitman arm.  there are two adjustment spots on the steering box:  A small screw with a locknut on the screw on top of the box and a BIG Hex-depressed adjuster on the front of the box.  Best wrench I have found for this is an adjustable, plumber's drain wrench (Home Depot).   For the adjuster, just use a piece of 1/8" by 3/4" flat stock, bent in an "L" and inserted into the hex depression.  It may fit the 17mm hex wrench of a transmission drain plug, but I've never tried that (you may luck out!)  some folks have cut a hole through their trunk wall in front of the steering box for access - I have not and have been able to adjust them as-is.

 

or is something out of line because I changed the caster angle?

 

I doubt it, but follow Wolfie's post and check stuff out.

 

I did try to rotate the steering box a little knowing that it would be out of whack due to the caster change. Maybe it was at such an angle that the play/noise was not noticeable?  

 

Possibly - There is a "tooth" that sticks out on the side of the steering box where it wraps around the torsion tube, and a corresponding notch on the tube that the tooth fits into.  This is to prevent the box from rotating when tightened.  Actually, there are two notches on the tube - one for Beetle sedans (more upright column angle) and another at a different, lower angle for Karmann Ghias.  I use THAT one for Speedsters as it angles the steering column better for a Speedster.

 

The rest of Wolfie's suggestions are all good stuff to check, too, just for peace of mind.

Gordon, the torque spec I used was "as tight as you can possibly make it with an extension to give you more leverage," or something like that.  It worked, too!

I don't have time to look for it now, but I recently (1? 2? 3?months) posted a link to another forum with a description of how to properly adjust a steering box. Don't just tighten the top piece down.

We're talking about the lock bolt on the pitman arm.  You're correct that you don't just tighten the adjuster down as that will royally screw it up.

Thanks for the replies. 

Wolfgang:  I thought about those two things and the rag joint is cracked and needs to be replaced for sure.  I did use two shims so it should be about 1/2 inch. The collapse able area is ok as I grabbed that to turn the wheels when under the car.

Gordon: as above, I did go to two shims with a thickness at the middle of about 1/4 inch each. The pitman arm has play what feels like inside the steering box and not from it rotating on the output shaft as far as I can tell. I know what you are thinking there. What throws me is that I didn't feel any of that when I only put one shim in last weekend and drove it. The rag joint is bad but the noise is in the box for sure.  I have read about adjusting the steering play by doing what you suggested and will have to cut a hole and go in from there.  I also have that huge hex head thing but wasn't sure what the heck it was. I've got a '68 pan. I think my rag joint is cracked( know it is) and that is most likely causing the extra 'slop' I feel. Must have gotten worse with changing things and screwing around.
As far as the steering box movement I did try to rotate the box forward a little to straighten out the steering column angle since the shims changed the angle. The box really didn't want to move what with being connected to all that other stuff. I did try but like Wolfgang said it would stretch the column.
I'll try the adjustments first as suggested.
Thanks very much again.  Hope to see some SOC members at Lime Rock this weekend.
Frank

I guess I should have said "strain vs stretch" the steering column.  I meant pull on the rag joint, the couplers and the column in the housing (in the car).  I suspect you can lengthen the effective length of the column a bit by loosening the couplers above and below the rag joint. 914's and late Supers use universal joints vs the rag coupler which I think is better.

I knew what you meant Greg.  Stretch would be a tall order...

Greg,

Could you put longer bolts in the rag joint and use a couple of washers to create a little space to elongate the entire assembly a bit?

Frank.....   That could prove dangerous as the washers might cut through the rubber puck...

Ah Leon, thanks.  I'll have to see it the bolt through areas are reinforced with metal or not when the puck arrives. Thank you!

Ok guys, I found it-

 http://cal-look.no/lounge/inde...p/topic,19621.0.html

half-way down the page are comprehensive instructions on going through a steering box, by someone who used to rebuild them on a regular basis.

 

Theron- Could we copy those instructions and save them to the knowledge base (or articles, or wherever you think they should go)? Yoda out.

Hey Al,

Thanks for the post.  I had found that one before a while back and read it but it was a bit over my head.  I have to replace the rag joint, it's really cracked bad, as I think that may be causing a lumpy feeling in my steering.  Then I'll ry to adjust the sector screw if there is still any slop.  My other issue is that my steering column, where it is glassed in through the firewall, is rubbing on the bottom of the tube where it exits the wall.  It's been a bit of a binding point since I bought the car last year but did not cause much of an issue. Now I think it's a little more noticeable since I've added caster and changed the relationship of things a bit.  Can I make any adjustment to the column when I replace the rag joint? It looks as though I can shorten or elongate the column a little with the two connectors that bolt to the rag joint. Or am I on the wrong track?

Thanks, Frank

It's always best to fix what you know before trying to troubleshoot, so you're right; replacing the coupler is the first step. While you've got the rag joint off, see if you can determine where straight ahead is in the box, and make sure the steering wheel is on in the correct place. Are the shaft out of the box and the column in a straight line? And yes, you should be able to adjust the length of the column with the piece that slides on to the steering box shaft. Al