Power source for electric fuel pump.

Mine is powered by a hot lead on the ignition switch. Run separately from the loom as I (assume) the original 1600 had a mechanical pump.

I thought the original hose clamp to the top beam was a little jury-rigish, so I mounted a new Edlebrock pump to the bulkhead ahead of the passenger footwell with shock mounts.

Not sure about the angle but assume it’s from horizontal. Mounted mine horizontal. As dlearl says you run a wire from the ignition switch. My cars run those to a relay that puts power to the pump. On my TD switch on is pump on. The Spyder has a second pull switch so ign. on doesn’t turn on the fuel pump unless the pull switch is also out.

From my BN2 Heater manual:

1. Fuel Pump Orientation:

"This is a “Pusher” pump.  It is gravity fed and needs to be lower than the fuel tank feeding it.  The pump also requires that it be mounted such that a line drawn through the inlet and outlet is angled up on the outlet side by +30 degrees above horizontal.  This is needed to prevent the pump from getting air bubbles in the outlet side during operation. "

Mine works at 30 degrees.  The angle is NOT especially precise, so don't sweat it too much.  I got a big, rubber insulated cable clamp (Home Depot or Amazon and the rubber surrounds the pump circumference) sized so that it firmly holds the pump and have it holding the pump at the right angle.  If your pump is longer, you could use two clamps attaching the pump to a bracket of some sort.

Power source:  As Dave mentioned, find a source (fuse panel?) which is switched on with turning the key on and run a separate (red) wire from there over to your new pump.  Make sure you attach to the fused side of the fuse, not the feed side.  Use insulated or waterproof connectors on the pump end because of the wheel splash from the incessant rains in the Panhandle.  NAPA can help with those.  An alternative is to use hooded connectors and shoot some silicon caulk onto them to seal them after pushing them onto the pump tabs.  

Don't forget to run a Green or Brown wire from the pump to ground.  No ground source out on the passenger chassis tray?  Just drill a convenient 1/4" hole through the tray, scrape off the paint or undercoat around the hole to about 1/2" dia., top and bottom.

Install a 1/4" bolt from the bottom with the following stack-up:  Bolt head side should have a 1/4" star washer between the bolt head and the tray metal, coming up from the bottom, then a 1/4" star washer on top, then a 1/4" nut, tightened.   Then another 1/4" star washer on top of the nut, then the 1/4" ring connector with the green or brown wire, then another 1/4" star lockwasher, then a 1/4" nut, tightened. Once tight, goop up everything with silicon caulk both on the nut side and on the bolt head side to seal it - be liberal.  Any silicon caulk will do, but Home Depot sells the stuff in black - Jus' sayin'......

BTW:  If you're going to NAPA anyway, you can get the fuel filter there, too:

2.3.5  Fuel Filter

The fuel filter I used is a NAPA Gold 3031 (NAPA P/N: FIL 3031).  It is metal cased and mounted in-line between the gas tank and the pump, on the shelf immediately forward of the passenger foot well, and forward of the body bulkhead.  It is mounted with a large, neoprene-insulated electrical clamp to hold it down.  There is no further fuel filtration except for fuel strainers at each carburetor’s inlet (inside of the Banjo fitting).

Also, while you're in there messing with fuel stuff, you might as well install a fuel shut-off between the tank and the filter and be done with it.

As always, thank you gentlemen.

I am using a single 3031 filter mounted below and forward of the engine now, outside the engine bay. The pump came with it's own "pre filter" that is situated between the pump and the tank. It too is metal, but small and tubular and screws onto the pump.

The pressure limit on this pump is 2 to 3.5 psi which should be fine with my dual Dell 40's on the 2110 stroker.

Gordon, Bob does not have a gas heater. ??????

Alan, the oil pressure switch grounds when the engine is NOT running. This is the opposite of what Bob would want(unless he uses a relay to flip it around). No need to make it complicated.

Bob, I believe a 45 degree angle from vertical or horizontal is the same angle, no?

Any switched and fused source is fine, I believe my fuel pump and horn are on the same circuit, with a 20 amp fuse. Also, ground the pump anywhere you can, and use a star washer between the ring connector on the ground wire and the frame. That's what I do. Then shoot it with some black spray paint if the ground is exposed to the elements. If grounded in the passenger compartment, you're usually OK leaving it bare. Or in Florida, use some dielectric grease. Silicone will seal in moisture, I don't use it on electrical connections.

Thanks, Danny!

napa 3031 or wix 53031,same filter

and don't forget to add a fuel pump relay that will shut the pump off in the event of a crash ie engine stalls pump shuts off.

I Installed one after my steering wheel incident at SMO and the thought of crashing and being toast. The one I installed primes for seven seconds for start, latches on engine run and shuts off when run signal from engine is not present.

Wise advice, Mike, particularly given Bob's other nickname.

A couple things occurred to me after a good night's sleep.

The low pressure/high volume fuel pump(usually rotary) for carbs is not much like the measured squirt pulse pump for a gas heater. At all.

DO NOT insulate connections with silicone. Silicone that smells like vinegar has acetic acid in it that will go all over your nice clean connection as it cures. It will corrode from within, and nobody wants that.

@Lane Anderson posted:

Wise advice, Mike, particularly given Bob's other nickname.

Lane:

To be fair, calamity only befalls me when I am awake and attempting something, like sitting down next to a fire.

I have a fuel filter post tank, before the pump, and I have a filter before the FI system.  I also would add that a switch wire from the ignition activating a fuel pump relay makes sense to me, and is how my car is wired,  but the others are the experts here.

@Panhandle Bob posted:

Lane:

To be fair, calamity only befalls me when I am awake and attempting something, like sitting down next to a fire.

Okay.  We need a little more information than this.  Awake, sitting, fire, calamity...there's a good story here. 

Bob:

Tour de'Smo.

After a long day of driving, and a short evening of adult beverages, I couldn't seem to maneuver my sorry butt into a simple sitting position on a rock and nearly stumbled into a bonfire. I was retrieved by others and found my place, vertical and barely singed.

We had been discussing our personal foibles and this one put me in the lead among the attendees. Thus my secondary honorary handle, bestowed by Lane, "Calamity Bob".

At least that's how I remember it. Other attendees might have a different take.

You got the story right, Bob.  Of course you did neglect to mention a few other calamitous events in your life that contributed to said moniker.  Those are best discussed around after suitable attitude adjustment with a refreshing adult beverage - or three.

Long live Calamity Bob! I was there, saw the whole thing. It just might have involved some real 'shine(or White Lightning) from the Alabama folks(I think they were from there). The whole evening was a bit fuzzy. But absolutely FUN!

Re: Bob's Calamities

All,

Pffft. Bob's calamities are overstated. Who among us is without sin?

Sincerely,

Safety Stan

I dunno, Stan...  I seem to recall one of his involved an explosion.

Things happened.......