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It's that time...

I am now ready to fire up the engine for the very first time since it was rebuilt.

I have read all of the technical articles on www.aircooled.net and have some ideas what I need to do.

My questions to everyone;

Is there anything you would recommend I do in preparation for starting up the engine?
Anything I should avoid?
Do you have a particular checklist that you follow when starting an engine?

FYI My engine is a 1600 with twin Weber ICT34 carbs and a stock oil cooler and exhaust system.

Thanks in advance to everyone for your responses.

Jim
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It's that time...

I am now ready to fire up the engine for the very first time since it was rebuilt.

I have read all of the technical articles on www.aircooled.net and have some ideas what I need to do.

My questions to everyone;

Is there anything you would recommend I do in preparation for starting up the engine?
Anything I should avoid?
Do you have a particular checklist that you follow when starting an engine?

FYI My engine is a 1600 with twin Weber ICT34 carbs and a stock oil cooler and exhaust system.

Thanks in advance to everyone for your responses.

Jim

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There is a good article somewhere on making a pre-oiler for the initial start up --- I'll do a search (think it is in one of the paperback VW engine rebuilding books) and see if I can locate it. Many cams have very specific breakin instructions on RPMs and run duration so you need to be aware of that too. I always have some one looking for big oil leaks and have a fire extinguisher handy for insurance.
1) take the coil wire off.
2) clamp off the fuel supply.
3) crank for 20 seconds or so.
4) look for leaks, watch the oil pressure guage.
5) fix leaks.
6) crank for another 30 seconds, watch the oil pressure to ensure it comes up.
7) unclamp the fuel line, connect the coil wire.
8) loosen the dist. if is tighened down, just enough to turn it if it is required.
9) get a remote starter button or get someone to work the key so you can work on the engine end.
10) get the fire extinguisher handy (just in case)
11) I ussually get a bottled water bottle with the closable spout and fill it about half full with gas to prime the engine. Works well to prevent spills.
12) Give it a little prime in both carbs and put the bottle out of the way.
13) Hit the starter, if all is well it should fire up. Don't rev it, just let it idle and check for leaks or anything out of the ordinary. Keep an eye on the oil pressure. If everything is kosher, then set the timing. Then the carbs.

Normal break in follows...

Interior looks great!
I usually pull the spark plugs the first time to let it crank over a little easier and bring the oil pressure up faster - but that's just me.....

Ben:

I remember a friend, years ago, with a Chevy Nomad who was starting a 350/4BBL for the first time after a rebuild. He did all those things, including the little squirt bottle of gas. Squirted a few good squirts down the carb throat and had his brother crank her over......

Unfortunately, his timing wasn't where it should have been, and, as he's looking down into the carb mouth, deciding if it needs another squirt, it coughs up a big "POOF!" and takes the hair off his face - eye brows and all!!

He was OK, but looked a little silly for a few weeks....

Moral of the story......stand back when cranking.....
As Gord says, pull out the plugs. Some other people go farther than that and don't install the rocker arms altogether. They crank it until the oil light goes off (a minute or so) and then install everything (taking care to lube all valves, rockers, springs and pushrods) and fire it up. When they fire it up they keep it at least 2,500 RPM or over for five minutes (don't let it idle for the first five minutes). Let cool, adjust the valves and repeat for another five minutes. Let cool, adjust the valves and you are set to go. This procedure is done to ensure that oil is splashed from the crank to the cam during the break in (which only happens at 2,500 RPM's or over). It seems the cam is the most fragile engine component during initial start up of an engine; that's why it's relieved of pressure (by removing the valve train) for priming.
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