Bob, you do not have a Third eye so to speak?
Ray: I don't have a third eye myself, but if you mean an extra brake light in the engine grill of my car, then yes. 
Cycloptic in all ways our cars are 
But I really like the Kahtec blinker on the 3rd eye it keeps flashing as long as my foot is on the pedal it just keeps the guys behind me on their toes or rather off my Bee hind.
I didn't know exactly what you meant by 'third eye', but that's a great idea.
http://www.kahtec.com/smart_stop.htm
Was the installation fairly easy?
I have the intelligent one... it keeps on flashing all the time but slower after the initial blink stage. I think it saves me especially at rush hour when the whole 417 slows down to a stop and go situation from 70 mph. Scary stuff at times and rear enders are common. 
I had Henry install it but Kevin mentioned it was quite easy to do.
In your case you can access the light from underneath the engine grill cover, with an A/Cooled engine as it is open.
I have another interesting feature on my car it is a module that flashes my Headlights whenever I lean on the horn, not just toot it comes also with an airhorn but I believe the module can be had without the horn. I installed one in my brothers Jetta and he says that it is the best thing he added. A real Attention getter for sure.
Bob I found the link on my build sheet for you.... Now it shows it working but it does not show extended foot on the pedal which would show a slower blink pattern.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/65579473@N08/15988268885/in/album-72157640274801565/
I think I'll order one, and if it ever warms up enough for me to work in my garage, I'll install it.
Another snow storm on its way today and tomorrow...
A friend of mine is reproducing these old Eyeball Stop Lights with LEDs.
I think that it's really cool but fear it just wouldn't look right on a Speedster. Unless it's a full outlaw!
If he added a double light it could look very bat mobile like
Update:
I got the engine installed and hooked up. There is still a list of items to complete and then some miscellaneous sorting, but getting close to completion. I actually drove it down the road for a short test run...very pleased! Also need to get it titled and registered.
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Gordon Nichols posted:A friend of mine is reproducing these old Eyeball Stop Lights with LEDs.
I think that it's really cool but fear it just wouldn't look right on a Speedster. Unless it's a full outlaw!
ON a Harley outlaw for sure
James I just reread all your build posts that is a real nice build ...
Any extra picts of the interior guages and sorts...
I would change the wheel for a larger and thinner flat nardi style and I think you need a Kahtec third eye intelligent flash on brake light. JUst saying
Looking good! That first drive is an amazing feeling after all the hard work
Thank you, @*LongFella! Yes, the drive made me anxious to finish. I love building, but it's been three years. Lol.
I don't know about you, but as I'm nearing completion there seems to be an almost endless punch list of items to complete. I still need to figure out how to upholster the dash pad and door top trim. I still have door silk trim to install. Today I had to shim the crank pulley to align the belt. Tomorrow I am going to make an adjust to the rear torsion bars. And I still have the convertible top. How difficult was that for you? I have installed all my snaps on the car and installed the tonneau. Was it difficult getting the correct tension on the top?
Also, how did you position all your emblems? Did you lay them out using tape to mark the position? I still have a lengthy list, but the end is in sight!
James
James:
Sweet. The electrical makes me swoon. So very, very nice...
OK, for info on installing the top:
https://www.speedsterowners.com...e-top-in-a-speedster
For the emblems, I used a thin piece of acrylic plastic - happened to be clear, but translucent color will do - the stuff I used was somewhere around 1/16" thick (up to 1/8" would do) and a bit longer/wider than the emblem.
Straighten the emblem (level and flat) and then place the emblem on the plastic and mark where the studs are (better if you do this from behind), then drill holes in the plastic where the emblem studs are, the same size as the studs. The emblem studs should fit nicely through the holes when done - one drill-size larger is usually OK, but no more (it will show if it's too big). Assemble the emblem to the plastic and mark where the horizontal and vertical centerlines of the emblem are as locators. Remove the emblem and your new drill template is ready.
Decide where you wish to mount the emblem on the car - Yes, I know the car body is curved....That's OK. Put some blue painter's tape on the car (one layer) where the emblem will go and then mark on the tape where the emblem centerlines should be. Tape the plastic template to the blue painter's tape securely and drill the holes slowly with very little drill pressure - DO NOT FORCE THE DRILL! Very light pressure and as slow as practical (1 - 2 revs per second to start) so as not to cut in to the paint and Gel coat too quickly and cause a chip. Do that for all of the holes. When done, curve the emblem slightly to match the body curve and the studs should fit right into the new holes.
You can permanently attach it two ways: Put a drop of clear silicon caulk, super glue or even plastic model glue into each hole , wipe off any excess and then simply press the emblem into place, or figure out how to get a "speed nut" (sometimes called Tinnerman nut at your local hardware store) onto the stud from the back side - you might have to recess the rear of the body material if the studs are too short to fit through. Careful routing from behind with a Dremel tool can do this. Me? I prefer the silicon caulk (because I had to route out behind the dash switches - And it's a PITA!)
James,
You car looks amazing. Well done. The one thing Brian and I did to dress up our engines was to replace the billet / finned air cleaners with the Vintage Speed reproduction air cleaners. I think those would really fit your build. I keep thinking that I want to see Black air cleaners on a car with black pullies and black accents.
Stunning build so far.
Ted
James posted:Thank you, @*LongFella! Yes, the drive made me anxious to finish. I love building, but it's been three years. Lol.
I don't know about you, but as I'm nearing completion there seems to be an almost endless punch list of items to complete. I still need to figure out how to upholster the dash pad and door top trim. I still have door silk trim to install. Today I had to shim the crank pulley to align the belt. Tomorrow I am going to make an adjust to the rear torsion bars. And I still have the convertible top. How difficult was that for you? I have installed all my snaps on the car and installed the tonneau. Was it difficult getting the correct tension on the top?
Also, how did you position all your emblems? Did you lay them out using tape to mark the position? I still have a lengthy list, but the end is in sight!
James
In regards to the top, the last thing we did was glue the canvas to the front bow that attaches to the windshield. So everything is connected - the back snaps, the two supporting beams (it was NOT in the tight position - so those little lever things at the base of the beams were in the loose position)... Once it was all connected, we put industrial glue on the bow and canvas... pulled as hard forward as we could with the top and stuck it to the bow. Let it sit for a bit, trimmed the excess and folded a little inside then bow. Once done and everything was attached, it came out really nice and tight once the two bottom levels where in the up position to tighten the top.
I hope that makes sense... my terminology might be off...
In regards to the emblems, I did not drill into the body AND I did tape everything and measured to ensure they were positioned to stock specs. There is a thread on the 356 registry site that has all the proper measurements for the outside emblems.
Here is a link to the emblem tape I used:
https://www.amazon.com/3M-0806...hesive/dp/B000PEWDJW
It is strong enough to hold all the outside emblems without a problem. I used thicker clear 3M tape for the two dash emblems since they are pretty heavy.
Interior complete except for emblems!
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Looks great!
ditto. Nice job!
It runs...very well! Still lots of details and sorting, beginning with registration and insurance.
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TX --- I like the raw hide seats. You must have a full freezer of beef!
Congrats James, looks great and hoping registration is a breeze.
Gordon Nichols posted:A friend of mine is reproducing these old Eyeball Stop Lights with LEDs.
I think that it's really cool but fear it just wouldn't look right on a Speedster. Unless it's a full outlaw!
Interested in this. Friends Envemo outlaw coupe. Details?
James posted:It runs...very well! Still lots of details and sorting, beginning with registration and insurance.
James---SIMPLY IMPRESSIVE BUILD!.
I'd like to ask how you did your butt sag. I'm in the starting process of reviving a CMC garage find that needs a bunch of tuning and love.
I noticed a round bar inside the rear wheel wells-care to share how/parts/etc--mine also has the sag but I don't think its related to FG and rivets slipping more that when you grab the rear bumper supports the metal rear loop moves up and down.
I too have an IRS and would like to get my wheels inward a bit more. What size tires are you running on your stock VW wide 5's---any clearance issues?
Thanks--David
New top installed, new tires and correct mirrors.
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Heritage 2008 posted:James posted:It runs...very well! Still lots of details and sorting, beginning with registration and insurance.
James---SIMPLY IMPRESSIVE BUILD!.
I'd like to ask how you did your butt sag. I'm in the starting process of reviving a CMC garage find that needs a bunch of tuning and love.
I noticed a round bar inside the rear wheel wells-care to share how/parts/etc--mine also has the sag but I don't think its related to FG and rivets slipping more that when you grab the rear bumper supports the metal rear loop moves up and down.
I too have an IRS and would like to get my wheels inward a bit more. What size tires are you running on your stock VW wide 5's---any clearance issues?
Thanks--David
Dave,
I'm sorry that I missed your questions! The way I corrected the butt sag was to remove the rivets from the FG panels that went into the 2x2 tubing. Then I braced the rear frame with a rod connected at the back portion of the rear frame up to the top of the upright 2x2 in the fender well, behind the door jamb. This rod has a threaded rod end and jamb nut on each end where it is connected. I adjusted the tension/length of the rod to align body and support the rear frame. I also attached a similar adjustable rod from the same location at the door jamb down to a hole in the shock tower. This rod provides triangulation and extra support for the rear frame. After adjusting the rods and tightening all connections, I used Liquid Nails adhesive to glue the FG panels back to the 2x2 rear frame. If you clean the FG and 2x2 tubing, the Liquid Nails provides an excellent bond. I completed the assembly with a 1/4 x 1 1/2 aluminum flat bar and 1/4-20 bolts completely thru the 2x2 rear frame in order to sandwich the FG panels. I hope this all makes sense!! I have more pictures somewhere, but they are not handy right now.
On the 1970 IRS rear end, I installed 1967 drum brakes in order to have a wide 5 lug pattern and to gain as much clearance as possible. On the front I am running CB Performance wide 5 disks which add about 3/4" width to each side. I am using 15 x 4 1/2" wheels with 185 65R15 tires. these can be seen in the last pictures that I posted. I barely have clearance on the back fenders, but no rubbing. They are so close that I cannot even get a finger between the tire and fender!
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Looks great James! I will have to meet up with you once I find mine. Not too many folks in our part of the state. I have been out in your neck of the woods several times driving my other cars, great area. Love the car!
James Garrett posted:Looks great James! I will have to meet up with you once I find mine. Not too many folks in our part of the state. I have been out in your neck of the woods several times driving my other cars, great area. Love the car!
Where do you live? Always nice to find neighbors.
I am in The Woodlands west of you. Have taken a few drives out to the Big Thickett forest by you. Nice roads.
"I am using 15 x 4 1/2" wheels with 185 65R15 tires. these can be seen in the last pictures that I posted. I barely have clearance on the back fenders, but no rubbing. They are so close that I cannot even get a finger between the tire and fender!"
There will be enough room in the fenderwells to widen your rear rims 1" to the inside, James, and along with more predictable handling you'll get more fender clearance, as this will move the centerline of the tire on the rim inward slightly as well. Any where there is any kind of hotrodding going on there's a shop that can do this. Al
ALB posted:"I am using 15 x 4 1/2" wheels with 185 65R15 tires. these can be seen in the last pictures that I posted. I barely have clearance on the back fenders, but no rubbing. They are so close that I cannot even get a finger between the tire and fender!"
There will be enough room in the fenderwells to widen your rear rims 1" to the inside, James, and along with more predictable handling you'll get more fender clearance, as this will move the centerline of the tire on the rim inward slightly as well. Any where there is any kind of hotrodding going on there's a shop that can do this. Al
I like that suggestion, Al! It's on my want-to-do list. I have a set of 66-67 VW centers that I intend to put into some 5-5 1/2" wide barrels with the appropriate offset. The 66-67 VW centers have a really clean look with no hub cap clips or extra holes.
VERY nicely done James~
Beautiful job, James. I am equally impressed by the level of organization in your garage! By the way, I'm a Garrett too.
Nice! ! !
Panhandle Bob posted:Beautiful job, James. I am equally impressed by the level of organization in your garage!
I believe he's got a mill tucked in there, if I'm not mistaken.
Stan Galat posted:Panhandle Bob posted:Beautiful job, James. I am equally impressed by the level of organization in your garage!
I believe he's got a mill tucked in there, if I'm not mistaken.
My man cave! )
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Heaven on earth!