Another thing with the POR-15, Cory; it's not designed to resist UV so it's actually great for the chassis and any part "where the sun don't shine"...:D
Cory
Someone did a side-by side test of Por, rust bullet and a few other products. Go to http://www.thesamba.com look under body/paint. Its a "sticky" about 4 down from the top
I dont have any issues with Peek. They know what they are doing.
You need a place to support the engine in the rear. That bar is attached to the frame. The rear of the car is rotating off of that bar. Correct? If you look at how a 911 engine mount is made (similar) Peek might be able to fab that bar with the thought of a 911 tranplant in the future. If that bar is moved more towards the reat it might give you enough room for the future. Something like making that bar removeable, ie adding holes to the side of the frame to accomadate different engines. Or making a couple of those bars to fit different engines.
Just a thought
Someone did a side-by side test of Por, rust bullet and a few other products. Go to http://www.thesamba.com look under body/paint. Its a "sticky" about 4 down from the top
I dont have any issues with Peek. They know what they are doing.
You need a place to support the engine in the rear. That bar is attached to the frame. The rear of the car is rotating off of that bar. Correct? If you look at how a 911 engine mount is made (similar) Peek might be able to fab that bar with the thought of a 911 tranplant in the future. If that bar is moved more towards the reat it might give you enough room for the future. Something like making that bar removeable, ie adding holes to the side of the frame to accomadate different engines. Or making a couple of those bars to fit different engines.
Just a thought
The short answer will probably be to make a new skeleton from the back of the block to the rear of the car and from the rear hinge up. The tins to keep hot air out of the engine compartment aren't installed yet, but everything else is in the pictures -- for the Type IV.
I haven't put the 2.0 in yet at all, or even measured its length. I'm pretty sure that it will measure out to be longer than the T-IV, and I con't know how much higher or lower its equatorial tins will be than those I have now.
If you look at all the framework stuff on the back body section, you'll see the framework I have in there now comes to within a quarter-inch of the tins supplied with Jake's DTM system. It may well be that an entirely new engine compartment is required, and, if so, I may have to fabricate a second one entirely. If everything lines up, I'm okay ... but I have a sneaking suspicion that it won't.
Sean (I've been mis-spelling his name) told me on the phone today that he's willing to do the engine, tranny, axles and torsion stuff, but that the rest of it isn't something he's prepared for right now. I'm okay with that and have options -- but that further puts off the 911 transplant.
No worries; that engine isn't going anywhere.
Meanwhile, I have a firm appointment with the powdercoater and I'm scheduled for full disassembly tomorrow morning with the Wrench. Every little piece that I'm going to paint myself will go home with me in my VW, and I'll be a sanding fool for the next week. Once the big stuff is off, I'll do the proprietary wash mix, rinse and apply. I'm actually looking forward to it.
It's probably going to motivate the Wrench properly, too. He called me this morning to find out how he can make up for his recent lull in activity. He wants to do the wires and the plumbing now, since I called someone else in to help. I think I might have inadvertently hit his pride button.
I haven't put the 2.0 in yet at all, or even measured its length. I'm pretty sure that it will measure out to be longer than the T-IV, and I con't know how much higher or lower its equatorial tins will be than those I have now.
If you look at all the framework stuff on the back body section, you'll see the framework I have in there now comes to within a quarter-inch of the tins supplied with Jake's DTM system. It may well be that an entirely new engine compartment is required, and, if so, I may have to fabricate a second one entirely. If everything lines up, I'm okay ... but I have a sneaking suspicion that it won't.
Sean (I've been mis-spelling his name) told me on the phone today that he's willing to do the engine, tranny, axles and torsion stuff, but that the rest of it isn't something he's prepared for right now. I'm okay with that and have options -- but that further puts off the 911 transplant.
No worries; that engine isn't going anywhere.
Meanwhile, I have a firm appointment with the powdercoater and I'm scheduled for full disassembly tomorrow morning with the Wrench. Every little piece that I'm going to paint myself will go home with me in my VW, and I'll be a sanding fool for the next week. Once the big stuff is off, I'll do the proprietary wash mix, rinse and apply. I'm actually looking forward to it.
It's probably going to motivate the Wrench properly, too. He called me this morning to find out how he can make up for his recent lull in activity. He wants to do the wires and the plumbing now, since I called someone else in to help. I think I might have inadvertently hit his pride button.
Attachments
Images (3)
I think these (first two photos, below) are better, or maybe more descriptive pictures of the hatch skeleton. The third one is the 911E, still right where I put it when it was given to me.
Here's a six-cylinder question for anyone; which transaxles will work from the shelf without moving my mounting brackets or modifying the chassis? I saw another thread where the manufacturer had moved the axles forward to accomodate the larger engine and transmission combo. I'd hate to find out too late.
And, for you flat-six types, did your fan clear the rear fiberglass of the engine compartment, or am I going to wind up doing bodywork?
My transmission sits on stock frame horns right now, and I had to skin out my decklid for the lid to close. All that's left of it is the Hibachi hole; there's no more plenum under it.
Also, I found the site for ordering POR-15 and its related materials through the Samba link: http://www.por15.com/
Thanks for the continuing tips and advice everybody -- I'm motivated again.
Here's a six-cylinder question for anyone; which transaxles will work from the shelf without moving my mounting brackets or modifying the chassis? I saw another thread where the manufacturer had moved the axles forward to accomodate the larger engine and transmission combo. I'd hate to find out too late.
And, for you flat-six types, did your fan clear the rear fiberglass of the engine compartment, or am I going to wind up doing bodywork?
My transmission sits on stock frame horns right now, and I had to skin out my decklid for the lid to close. All that's left of it is the Hibachi hole; there's no more plenum under it.
Also, I found the site for ordering POR-15 and its related materials through the Samba link: http://www.por15.com/
Thanks for the continuing tips and advice everybody -- I'm motivated again.
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Images (3)
Cory ,
Being away for a few days I missed out on your saga.
On a positive note, I have known Sean at Peek Performance for 5 years now and highly recommend peek Performance. They built my first speedster motor out of three cartons of parts I supplied.
They are not the cheapest shop on the block but they do know what the hell they are doing hence you do get your money's worth. Yes there is the hidden expense of having them do the car but you will have a one off, unique ride.
Alan
Being away for a few days I missed out on your saga.
On a positive note, I have known Sean at Peek Performance for 5 years now and highly recommend peek Performance. They built my first speedster motor out of three cartons of parts I supplied.
They are not the cheapest shop on the block but they do know what the hell they are doing hence you do get your money's worth. Yes there is the hidden expense of having them do the car but you will have a one off, unique ride.
Alan
Good to know, Alan. Can I mention that to Sean?
Sure Cory and tell Sean I said hello!