Skip to main content

Project #43 it's been frustrating but there is steady progress, the wheels were sent wrong, shorted 7 wrong parts etc.... The right wheels got here on Thursday new tires are mounted, 48m Webers are rebuilt, Raby DTM shroud motor is now  match painted to the Artic Silver body color and ready to go back in.  I'm half way through figuring out the wiring,  new windshield base frame is pre-fitted, deck lid actuator installed, driving lights brackets are fabricated, located 3 chrome bezels to fit the all black VDO 2" oil & volts gauges on the UK eBay and fit them today, "Emory Outlaw" shifter knob arrived,  CIP1 custom black seats are here too, Ray Dot spun aluminum mirrors are being painted to match this week. Waiting on misc. parts and need to find the right black carpet.... Pics in a week or two.

Last edited by Alan Merklin

It's a short electric actuator the rating is 250 lbs. it has a 2" cycle with a built in clutch shut off at both ends of travel. It needs to be installed w/o the motor in the car as you have to get under the deck lid when closed to be able to get the right positions for the mounting brackets.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281484...e=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Last edited by Alan Merklin

The actuator takes the place of the stock latch, the pin on the deck lid gets removed also the fiberglass block on the body that holds the latch. I make a bracket to mount the lower actuator pivot a few inches above the 2 x 2 steel bar then with the lid closed position the other pivot bracket , this needs to be exact so that the actuator stops just as the lid has light pressure on it in the closed position.  When the lid is opened the 2" there is a "grenade pin" that gets pulled from the actuator piston bracket that allows the lid to be manually opened as normal. I also install another "Grenade pin" at the base bracket attaching a thin cable to that routing the cable out to the driver's side wheel well w/ a red handle on the end . This is an emergency release in case the actuator dies or allows access to the motor bay should there be a fire.   These actuators are powerful with ratings of 250 lbs plus and assume a mis -aligned install will break the lid in half or worse.

Last edited by Alan Merklin
IaM-Ray posted:

Well Will would willfully wildly wiring wire to hold it down with a clip help if it opens... like on a trailer chain set up maybe  

Ray, I'm ahead of you.

When I get the car back, (it went to the body shop today) I'm going to rig a quick-lock safety-thingy which will allow the hood to open just far enough to get a hand in to un-latch it from the safety-thingy I devise.

Think screen door latch we all grew up with, only stronger.

All you see is a couple of inches of the the black 3/4" piston.  I thought of wiring it off a stat to open at 180 but after shut down it would stay open until it cooled or would need an override switch. I used a DTDP toggle switch that when switched from the up to down position it reverses polarity ...With that beast of a motor 180 is going to arrive quickly. 

The actuator is made by " Windy Nation" which is at the base of Mout Fuji.              Here's the "eBeg" link  http://www.ebay.com/itm/281484...e=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Last edited by Alan Merklin

West Virginia...Good friends, a great church, beautiful country and internet too,           I'm going fishing, volunteer a couple of days a week, maybe get another Harley..that should fill out the weeks nicely.

* Our 4 BR remodeled home on a corner lot with a unique shop and plenty of parking for a boat or motor home will be up for sale around May, low taxes, great school system, quiet neighborhood, a community where you can still leave your doors unlocked.......Message me if interested.

Last edited by Alan Merklin

Add Reply

Post Content
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×