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I did one, I had to buy two floor pans to get the necessary overlap material for strength on the newer looking buggy pans. I also added 1 x 1" square tube along the outer indents on the underside of the pans (where it's bolted) alot of work.
If I were to do it again (not) I would remove the entire exsisting buggy length floor pans and replace them, this way all you need to to is add a braced section to the tunnel. ~Alan
Where Alan used 1" square tubing along the sides of the pan, I used 1/4" thick, 2" X 2" Angle iron (it's all I had kicking around back then) and then welded a dual-cross-brace of 1/4" X 2" steel strap under the tunnel where the cuts had been made to strengthen it all up, along with welded-in, 1/8" thick steel flat stock heat-formed into tunnel patches for the missing metal. I trashed the buggy floor pans and went with new sedan floor pans from Lehigh Valley Metals. Not the prettiest thing underneath (fortunately, it was too low to see anything under there), but it was plenty strong when finished and ended up in autocrosses for a few years. Don't know where it is now....
Thanks for the info guys! I figured some one had done it.The reason I ask is I have a 1970 pan I cut for a Manx, I just sold the Manx body(way too many projects and Speedy is my favorite).

I'm thinking of doing an Alan and pre-building a super clean chassis with a 1904cc or maybe my 914 2.1 engine and relocating Speedy's body onto to it.

I like the IRS set up better, although I have the suspension down pretty good on the 68 pan Speedy is on right now.

Or cut down the 914 to fit the Speedy body onto (more work obviously) or get a tube chassis somewhere.

One of my main concerns is a roll bar that will work and from what I've read here the pan based Speedy just isn't strong enough too support a REAL rollbar.
I'll inquire tomorrow, it is about 8' -9' in length with a front and rear U shape section that gets added on. I would suggest cutting the frame in half as it would save you a bundle and could be shipped on a standard pallet. Putting it back together would be easy as it would be self aligning and only require a tube sleeve insert in either side of the tube frame.. ~Alan
Speed Bucket said "One of my main concerns is a roll bar that will work and from what I've read here the pan based Speedy just isn't strong enough too support a REAL rollbar."

If you look at the FF/CMC steel subframe attached to the fiberglass body - it looks like you could find strong points to attach a real roll bar or cage. Just invite Cory and his Saw-Z-All over for a few beers and he'll square you away. Ha, he knows a welder who welds with bare chest and shorts too.

https://www.speedsterowners.com/library/cmcmanual2/images/cmc59.jpg

An in the open tube frame would be easier to weld but getting the body after adding the roll bar could present problems. Check out Cory's integral roll bars.
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