Proper height at fender wells

Search wheel and tire fitment on the site, lots of stuff. I've been going through this same issue with mine and had to file the left inner wheel well with my wheels and tire combo and the truth is, the 185 tire is tight in the rear.

 

I would address the butt sag while your doing this as it would be much easier in the long run to get it out of the way now because what I found was the body is tight on the left side of the CMC mold which is documented here.

 

I think when it comes time for new tires I will probably just go the 175 route, 185's look great but like a tight dress on a woman, it looks good but moving in it is another story.

 

The electric pump is fine just make sure if you don't know the output PSI you will need to regulate it to the carbs. I'm running one and regulate to 3.5 PSI.

 

I know some of the guys will check in soon and give you input for sure and they could probably also impart some wisdom with regard to the rear disc setup. I think some setups push the wheel out even more and is the reason I haven't made the leap to rear discs so far.

 

Good luck.

 

Michael

If its running try running some Chevron Techron in gas thru the carbs.  (Assume you got all old gas out).  Wait til you get some miles on it to see if too lean/rich and transition from idle to high speed is smooth before rebuilding.  To adjust rear height you'd need to adjust the torsion bars - or at least one on one side.  Grinding inner wheel well FG won't address height just tire clearance. Butt sag fix is only several hours - easy to do if wheels are off for torsion bar adjustment.  If you are lucky you might have adjustable spring plates - easy fix then.  Height is entirely up to you. Those are different bolts on front - is it wheel studs and separate chrome nuts?  Spacers are available 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2" inch (fatter are available).  1/4" can usually be used with old bolts - you want 8 complete turns minimum.  

 

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDe...ductCode=C26-603-105

 

 

Mike and Wolfgang--thanks for jumping in to help.

 

I did run it for about 10 with seafoam in gas--I have some B12 I could add and run it more. 

 

Has studs on front--chrome slotted rims that are not in the greatest shape.

 

I need some covers for the carbs and new filters--who is the best source?

Should have also mentioned that you can adjust the steering stop - so if rubbing is on full turning that might help.

 

I have (and like) the cast aluminum air cleaners over the chrome ones (that rust and look tacky). Price is half of chrome too. Shorter 1.5" ones are available.

 

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/C...ssembly-p/cb3312.htm

 

 

Heritage - Interesting first name.  From your mother's or father's side?

 

Anyway, start by reading this:

 

https://www.speedsterowners.com...rear-ride-height--vw

 

Now let's tackle your questions:

 

1. What is the proper height that should be between ground and fender heights--both front and rear?

 

Whatever you want it to be - see the article on rear height adjustment.  

BTW:  there is no left-to-right height adjustment for the front end.  THAT is done by adjusting the opposing rear corner. (see article)

  

         I really don't want to grind fiberglass.

 

You won't have to.

 

 

2. Camber settings?

         Would this provide the rear height I need to prevent tire rubbing?

 

NO.  Rear camber is only adjustable (barely) with IRS rear ends (after 1969 pan) - the Swing-arm rear has self-adjusting camber by nature of the suspension geometry.  Get your ride height set to where you like it and THEN have someone do a 4-wheel alignment to either 1968 (for swing-arm) or 1970 (for IRS) specs, BUT Have them put 6-7 degrees of negative caster into the front end.  BTW:  It's sometimes a challenge to fit 185's under a classic Speedster body in the rear.  Fit is often improved by running wheels with a bit more inside offset, but you can only go so far before you contact the spring plates.

 

3. Front inner rub.

         With the 185's I noticed a rub on inner well.

         Suggestions for spacers and where to get a set?

 

No spacers needed.  Adjust the turn limiter bolts that make contact with the Pitman arm beneath the steering box.  Either they are missing or out of adjustment.

 

         Will I need longer bolts? What size-where?

No.

 

4. Butt Sag--next project BUT--Should I wait until warmer weather since not lucky          enough to have constant heat in garage.

 

Probably, because any adhesive you use will probably want to cure above 50F.

 

5. Electric fuel pump?

         Engine has dual dells.....blah, blah, blah......

 

Yup, rebuild the carbs.  If the electric pump is a FACET (small, rectangular block that goes rapidly "CLICK, CLACK, CLICK, CLACK!" when it runs, then remove it, do some incantations over it and then chuck it in a trash barrel.  If it is a cylindrical unit, (and therefore, a rotary pump) then it MIGHT be ok, but your fuel pressure near the carbs should be around 3.5 pounds, no matter what you use.

 

BTW:  Those carbs do  not have choke plates, so they'll run like poop until they get warmed - coughing, spitting, puking, etc., for a couple of minutes, then they smooth out.

 

 

Heritage:

 

Here's Gordon's photo's for the turn limiter bolts. Mine were both missing, 8mm as I recall.

 

Art

Here's another view…(click on picture to embiggen). 

 

Aces to all that Gordon said but POSITIVE caster. Not negative. Two sets of shims will more than do it. If you're not riding in the weeds in front then one set should get it. 

 

Front end should have a half degree or so of negative camber. That's not to spec but seems to work a little better than the straight-up stance the book calls for. Very little toe-in. 1/8-inch max, maybe. If everything is tight then 1/16 could be enough.

 

As explained, rear camber will be whatever it is at the ride height you set. If you can set rear toe it's actually a tiny bit toe OUT, not in. 1/16+; maybe 3/32.

I always seem to get the terminology wrong when I talk Caster, probably because of how I learned it.  I see it as a line going through the two ball joints, so adding a space behind the lower torsion bar pushes it forward making the lower end positive.  What I see, however, is the upper end going negative.  Both effect that imaginary line the same, but I suppose it always good to have everyone on the same page.  

 

Thanks, Ed...

 

I guess I just live in a Bass-Ackwards world!

 

While One or two sets should do it, you really should take a few of each thickness available along with you when you get the front end aligned (they probably won't have them in stock, anymore).  You don't really know what you'll need until you get it up on the rack and see what it is to start with.  You want to end up somewhere between 5.5 degrees and 7 degrees by adding those shims behind the lower beam.  Thicker shimming will require longer beam bolts.  The guy who did my car last used one of my shims (the thicker one) but then made a shim from some tubing to get it dialed in where he wanted it (6.25 degrees) on one side.  BTW:  The sides didn't match for what they needed - most cars don't, so the alignment guy often gets you "in the ballpark" and stops.

 

Also, since we all seem to lower our cars to different heights (and have a few different chassis systems under there), what will be needed for proper caster will be different for each car.  It's no big deal for the guy to set it up, he'll just need the parts to work with.

Great pics, guys! Will make it much simpler for some people.

Great info but won't having a neg or positive camber or toe also wear tires.

 

Is it possible to get to the pan serial numbers on the tunnel. The PO never recorded them for the title and insurance company is requesting them

 

 

I've seen tires with 3,000 miles severely affected by a setting out of alignment.

 

I guess it may not matter since the tires usually dry rot before you wear out the tread and you can rotate more often.

 

 

Chassis serial number?  Just peel back the carpet on center tunnel in front of rear seat. Here's photo of mine where I cut fiberglass rear seat to gain access to the shifter coupler.  No need to cut just to see the serial number.

 

Heritage (we really need your first name here)-

 

+ 1/2 degree (stock setting) to - 1/2' (front end will "bite" a little better) camber will result in normal (or close to normal) tire wear. I've seen guys with street/track cars using up to - 2' camber and yeah, tires don't last as long as they normally do, but they love the result. Any deviation from spec will wear tires faster than usual, but with the limited mileage we put on these cars, if it results in better handling and we're not getting full life out of our tires any way, maybe there's a happy medium?

 

And as Greg said, you should be able to get to the chassis # on the tunnel by lifting the carpet behind the seats. Al

 

You've got me thinking- I wonder how long tires would last with -1' camber...

 Thanks for the excellent advice from experienced Speedster Owners.

 

Here are a few cars I've let go in the past 3 years. Hoping I have found my last toy--been wanting one since I saw one at local show. Like the fact its VW plan. 

 

Respectfully,

           David

David;

 

Hope you don't regret, letting the 911 go.  I had an '84, that exact same color combination, although my Fuchs were all chromed. Big mistake.

 

Welcome to the madness,

 

Art

Love them old Ghias!

I was looking for an SC Targa 911 when I bumped into the Speedster and feel in Love but the 911 still haunts me. For you guys that have had both how or why did you let the 911 go?  Ido love the economic apect of my Speedster but still...

Yep.  I've had two of them over the years - a coupe and a cabriolet.  Both great cars for driving, and low maintenance to boot.

The 911 was starting to well--certainly not nickle and dime me--lol. Figured an engine rebuild was on the horizon given that it had never been apart and at 10G it was time to cash out. Went looking for a Ghia and the rest is history.

Doug - Like a lot of the SOCers on this site, I've owned quite a few P-cars (from 356 to 911) during a 25+ year PCA membership. The long and short of it, the P-cars I've had were fun, however, my replica Speedster is the MOST FUN and MOST GRATIFYING car I've owned. Hands Down!

 

What makes me say that? The P-cars are stylish, status symbol, refined sports cars. Provides a certain 'pride of ownership' and may be a personal goal accomplished. But every single time I get in my replicar Speedster (which is pretty often cuz its my daily driver), the timeless design, primitive technology and exhilaration of top down driving, viewing the road ahead through that tiny windshield….well, its the BEST! 

 

David (Heritage) - very nice selection of cars you've had in your stable! 

Al, I run 1.5 degrees negative camber in front, along with 1/16" toe-in. Caster is not adjustable on the Spyder, beam is welded in place.

 

Rear is about 3 to 3.5 degrees negative camber, and the same 1/16th toe-IN.

 

Tire wear? 35,000 miles, on second set of tires. Probably 12-14K on second set. Rear tires are halfway gone or more due to "aggressive starts". Front tire wear is slightly more on the inside to the outside, but not overwhelmingly so.

 

Initial turn-in has more bite than stock and road-holding in steady-state higher speeds seems better. And yes, I've been sideways at 50 plus. It ain't for the faint of heart or loose of bowel......

Yeah, Danny, the cars I've seen with more negative camber in the front have all been watercooled, front engined and tires don't last long at all. With our lighter cars I suspect it wouldn't be nearly as bad, but we're talking purely speculation here. Heck, after 4 or 5 years we should be thinking about new ones anyway (tires do not last forever), and with most people putting 3-5,000 miles a year on their cars, a little more tire wear just means it's a little easier to let them go, as you now got your money's worth. If the car's handling better as well, then it sounds like a win all around to me...

 

To get that much negative front camber- are you using the offset adjustment nut in the top trailing arm, have you bent the top trailing arms, or??? Do you know what the caster is?

Yes, I'm using the aftermarket eccentrics that give you more camber. As a bonus, they give you a little more caster as well if you don't use all the eccentric on camber. Of course, that is only if you twist them so they lean the spindle back a little more.

 

My caster is unknown, but I can assure you it must be enough, I've seen 125 and it felt good, not uncertain or twitchy at all.

Doing over 100 mph in a convertible seems SO much faster when compared to doing 100+ in a hardtop.

I did 135 mph* in my V8 Miata (top down) and even though the engine had more left that was fast enough for me!

 

*done on a deserted highway in the middle of nowhere.

 

I once did a shade over 130 on the front straight at Roebling road Raceway near Savannah.  No, it wasn't in Pearl (she was all done at 104 on the same straight), nor was I even driving.  I was shotgunning in a paid ride in a Ford GT being driven by none other than Dr. Bobby Rahal as part of a fund raiser at the Hilton Head Concours.

 

The car was very remarkably quiet, seemed to handle like a dream (Hell, I was holding on for dear life and straining against the seat belts) and Dr. Bob kept up a running commentary on how he really would have liked to have that car during his road racing days.  I managed to hold everything in during the ride (unlike my first ride in a race-prepared Porsche GT3) and had a ball.

Testing reply by email.

> On Jan 4, 2015, at 12:53 PM, SpeedsterOwners.com <alerts@hoop.la> wrote:
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