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Proper washing of new speedy?

S Steve56
I recieved my car Monday and promptly put it in the garage, un covered. It came up on a transport from Hawaian Gardens over the weekend and can use a wash but I want to think this through with the help of some advise. The paint needs to cure for atleast a month, and since paint cures from the inside out I was told not to cover it. Also waxing the car is a no no at this time I am told-- dont want to seal the skin. What is left I think is just to wet the car lightly,and get most of the road grit to roll off with the water, then take a microfleece mit,or very soft brush, and very gently wash the car with a light solution of mild dish soap and water (none of that "wash and wax" stuff), then rinse again, drying with a new chamy, carful not to rub hard. I want to take care not to put micro scratches all over it before the paint is cured and hardened, and before I get the opportunity to put on the virgin coat of wax- which will be another concern later. I read alot of post about wax on this site, but not much on washing. I know I must sound like a proctologist to some of you,(I am not).. but I reserve the right to be just a little bit anal about new speedy. Tips and comments welcomed.
1956 Vintage Speedsters(Speedster)
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S Steve56
I recieved my car Monday and promptly put it in the garage, un covered. It came up on a transport from Hawaian Gardens over the weekend and can use a wash but I want to think this through with the help of some advise. The paint needs to cure for atleast a month, and since paint cures from the inside out I was told not to cover it. Also waxing the car is a no no at this time I am told-- dont want to seal the skin. What is left I think is just to wet the car lightly,and get most of the road grit to roll off with the water, then take a microfleece mit,or very soft brush, and very gently wash the car with a light solution of mild dish soap and water (none of that "wash and wax" stuff), then rinse again, drying with a new chamy, carful not to rub hard. I want to take care not to put micro scratches all over it before the paint is cured and hardened, and before I get the opportunity to put on the virgin coat of wax- which will be another concern later. I read alot of post about wax on this site, but not much on washing. I know I must sound like a proctologist to some of you,(I am not).. but I reserve the right to be just a little bit anal about new speedy. Tips and comments welcomed.

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Marty GrzynkowiczMarty Grzynkowicz2012 IM Suby-Roadster
Two Great products a lot of us use. Don't use Dish Soap. Use a Cali Duster before using the Speed Shine. If you Speed Shine after short runs you'll almost never have to wash it.

http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/car+care/car+washing/car+cleaners/car+wash%2C+16+ounces.do


http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/complete+speed+shine+kit.do?sortby=ourPicks
FM Former Member
As above, don't use dish soap. The only time you want to use dish soap, especially Dawn, is to de-grease a car for painting.

Use plenty of water, water is the lubricant that flows the dirt off the surface. A very simple automotive soap would be appropriate. Don't bother with the "wash/wax all in one." You just want to get it clean, no need to wax yet.

Spray mist is a good choice for touch ups even on fairly new paint. Don't apply when the car is hot to the touch or in direct sunlight.

angela
Troy SloanTroy Sloan Supporting Member
Steven.
Same as what Marty and Cory said above. I have almost 20,000 miles on my car since late 2007 and I have only washed it about 4 times.

I just use a California Duster while it is warming up and then Mothers or Eagle 1 spray detailer on the corner of a microfiber cloth to get the bugs and spots that didn't come off with the Duster.

If you never drive it in the rain and you drive slowly through puddles, it just doesn't seem to be necessary to ever spray water on it.

FYI. On almost every one of the Speedsters that I have removed the license plate light from, the paint was damaged underneath from water being trapped behind the seal. Also, the inside of the license plate light was also rusted due to water getting inside.
S Steve56
all good! Minimum water seems like the best way to go. Troy, funny you mentioned about the license plate light housing taking in moisture. I noticed on my brand new VS that the rubber gasket along the top of the unit is not sealed against the body, actually leaving an open gap almost 3/16" in the worst spot The rubber gasket on the sides and down around the bottom of the unit appears thick and with decent seal, but along the top its thin and not touching. Water can easily just roll right down inside there!
S Steve56
Since I posted that comment I did talk to Kirk at VS this morning. Most of the speedsters that people buy have the "tear drop" rear lights which come with the "look up" license plate light housing. I wanted the beehive lights because it was more indicative of a 1956 than a '57, the year I was born, and apparently the installation of beehives neccesitate turning the housing to a "look down" position. It seems my option is to use some blue painters tape and a tube of black silicon.
FM Former Member
Congrats on the new car! All those Chinese repro parts leak like crazy; when I received my car the tailight lenses looked like fish tanks with water midway through the lens; basically I used clear silicone on them and the license plate light too. Also the repro rubber seals are of bad quality and in a few years start cracking; I haven't replaced them on the tailight lenses and license plate light but I found genuine Porsche seals for the door handles and replaced those right away and they haven't cracked. I strongly suspect thh OEM seals are much superior. If you can find OEM seals for tailights and license plates put them on.
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