Pushrods....

This spring I decided to take off the pushrod tubes and install new gaskets (washers) on the ends. In doing so required removing the rockers and puling out the tubes. Well, that was easy enough. Cleaned up the parts nicely and reinstalled everything and did the valves.

Ever since there has been more of a leak from what looks like cyl 1 area of the valve covers.

Now: When I took out the pushrods I just cleaned them as a bunch and put them back in where ever.....

Question: Are they different lengths (become different) because of engine wear?

Like any engine part, each pushrod should have been removed, and replaced exactly where it came from with each end touching the same component upon re-installtion. In other words, the end touching the valve adjuster should touch the adjuster upon re-installation and #1 intake pushrod should be returned to the same position etc. etc ....

I've seen some engines built by less than reputable builders that have different length pushrods and still work.

Wear on the pushrod ends is to be expected as one end is being bushed by the lifter and the other end is pushing the rocker arm but excessive wear indicates a problem that can associated with improper lubrication, mis-alignment, damaged or cheap parts.

I'm assuming that you have spring loaded pushrod tubes or the type that have jamb nuts??

If the valve cover is leaking oil then that's probably non-associated with the replacement of the pushrod gaskets.
Replace the valve cover gasket by thoroughly cleaning the valve cover and mating surface on the cylinder head, apply a thin coat of yellow contact cement to the cover and gasket. Let them sit for 10 minutes than stick the gasket to the cover and re-install.

Thanks for the response. Yeah figured that pushrods shouldn't be mixed about. I did clean and install new gasket covers but still drips a bit. (WTF)

I have the blue aluminum tubes that are telescopic.

I guess cyl 1 valve may not be correct and need verification. Now only if I can have a good day outside to check (need to roll out the Ghia)

There's a lesson here Mike...leave well enough alone. That's what you get for just "deciding" to this or that apart. ;-) I'm sure that;s one of Murphy's laws, isn't it?

Brian and have just enough knowledge to be dangerous.....

Actually needed to take them out since I was seating new tube gaskets, the old ones were brittle and falling apart...so unfortunately needed to be done. Not a bad job, but dirty!!!!! Whoooo boy! Especially laying on your back.

Hey Mike!

If I understand this right, there might be TWO different leaks going on here: One is potentially from a pushrod tube and the other from a valve cover gasket. While I usually replace a pushrod tube from whence it came, it's not really that critical to do so. Push rods (as Larry mentioned) are a different matter - I ALWAYS put pushrods back where they came from, but pushrod TUBES are nowhere near as critical as to placement.

If you can isolate the pushrod tube (#1?) then do the simple thing: get under there and remove it (again) and re-install it (again). THIS time, make sure the internal O-ring is sealing as it's supposed to be (maybe it got rolled out of position during install - you can't Permatex it) and either clean up or replace the end seals (those conical O-rings on the ends) and put a light coat of either blue or copper permatex on'em (inside and out) to make sure they're gonna seal right. While you have the pushrod tube out, check it closely to make sure there isn't a crack in the end causing the leak, and also make sure there's adequate springiness to force the ends firmly between the case and head. You may have to stretch the spring a bit to make it seal better.

For the valve cover, are you using composite (Black) or cork (brown) gaskets?? I haven't had a lot of good luck with the composite gaskets. Bear in mind that I never Permatex valve cover gaskets - I usually put a light coat of wheel-bearing grease on both sides of a cork one and pop it in. I have had composite gaskets leak repeatedly and have now gone to just cork versions (anyone want a bunch of composite valve cover gaskets from the Carlisle Flea Market??)
There are several schools of thought on these gaskets - some people LOVE composite ones and some don't. Some Permatex one side of the gasket and "glue" it into the valve cover, leaving the head side "dry". Others Permatex both sides (God help 'em getting it out later on). Another question is whether you have bales on the valve covers (the heavy wire hold-on gizmo) or retaining bolts through the covers into the heads. The bolted-on covers don't seem to seal as well as the covers with Bales and the hold-down bolts can leak without the proper "O-rings" under the bolt heads.

So that's all I can think of while sitting here waiting for Kathy.

Hope this helps a little......

gn

Wait... no one throw the a-hole name at me...my grammatical brain burned a neural bundle with Gordon's use of the word "bale"; used it many times, never knew it was spelled b-a-i-l, bail! Jeez, one can never learn enough.
Per M-W dic (tionary):
bail
3(noun): 1 a: a supporting half loop b: a hinged bar for holding paper against a platen...
2 :a usually arched handle (as of a kettle or pail)
and NO, technically NOT a complete drift........

When I removed the push rod tubes to put new seals in I removed the pushrods and hence moved them about. I use the cork gaskets and permatex the cover side and dry on engine side.

I am thinking it has to be a loose valve and more than likely ring wear although it doesn't burn oil but a slight wear can run more oil into the cover (especially) if the valve is not adjusted properly.

I will wiggle the tubes to see if that is the problem as well but it is leaking from the corner of the valve cover.

When I remove it to take a peek inside there is a little oil (naturally) but not too much. I may just live with it. Winter is coming and not much time to work on the car before it goes to sleep.

If this has just started now, I would simply replace the valve cover gasket on that side again and see if that cures it. I doubt that it's much more serious than that.

Mike, If you are using bales you might want to put a little more load on them. I have aluminum v covers and couldn't stop them from leaking so I bent the ears on the bales to make them fit tighter, worked like a charm. Don't over do it though!

Yeah, I had to bend the bails a little to give more tension. Then I got 547 fake P covers that bolt on.

In regard to 2 piece push rod tubes. Most say to install them with the smaller diameter tube against the engine block and the larger tube against the cylinder head. For years, I've been installing them with the smaller end against the cylinder head due to gravity... Oil is pumped to the valve train via the hollow push rod. It then returns to the sump via the pushrod tubes. If the small end of the 2 piece push rod tube is against the cylinder head, there is less chance of oil leaking past the "O" ring that is supposed to seal the tube. (the smaller diameter side of the push rod tube fits inside the larger diameter tube and as oil is flowing downhill, it won't get caught between the tubes relying on the "O" ring to stop a leak)

If you have high ratio rockers, this "may" not work but give it a try.

Lots of SOC to catch up on with our 20cms of snow and 16 hour power failure. Had to cook dinner and breakfast on the wood stove. Candle light dinner.... :)

Hope it melts, this is too early.

Thanks for all replies, I will verify and get back!

Didn't last winter's snow up there just melt a few weeks ago?