putting up and down conv top "D"

just got my IM roadster and just wanted to ask if anyone would have a handle on the inside middle header bow to help raise the top up because there's nothing to grab on to help lift top up and move to one side or the other to be able to latch close, it seems 2 people are needed really or at least to do it quickly and I just wondered if there might be something wrong with mine. I can't just grab it from inside the drivers seat lift up and close I have to get out and lift each side seperately, any tips or insigght?? thanks a lot

Post some pictures. I have the same top and I just reach back place the tips of my fingers under the header that has the latches and bring it forward while sitting in the driver

A 1979 could have developed an unusual stiffness in it's joints but generally you're right that it takes two if you're standing outside the car, but it's an easy lift and pull from the driver's or passenger's seat. Maybe some lubrication of the connecting parts of the top's bows will help.

I'm afraid that if you lack the strength to raise the top once you have it working smoothly from the driver seat you'll be obligated to carry a passenger who can do so. To avoid the interpersonal issues so inevitable with such a passenger may I suggest a trained chimp rather than a human to fill the role? They may make noise but they seldom make sense.

Ken has the Jesus juice out early tonight!

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here's my co-pilot in my other cars but still haven't trained him to put it a top. Peter you described it perfectly and thats exactly what I thought I could do but no way no even close when I went to lower it and push down gently on the main large hinge that the one painted arm of the hinge was literally outside of the car after examining it we figured out a black plasitc bushing was on the wrong side of the nut and was forcing it outward after taking off the black spacer that are then pointed correctly and the top dropped down in position, in fact both male snaps on the boot are not there and the material is ripped in those 2 places only I think maybe someone was using it like that which would of caused too much stress on the boot in an effort to secure the top down, I emailed the seller to see if he recently replaced the top if so I could see that something is not not alligned properly when installing it , its is not fluid at all and I did have another IM roadster and you could grab it form behind like Peter described, might have to remove and start from scratch many many of the rubber gaskets are lose and when moved screws fall off , anyway another major issue is all of the air infiltration hopefully the pictures will show the 2 main areas being top corners(lower) where meets door and window theres almost an inch of open space and the window glass doesn't seal tightly we tried working with the header bow hinges and tightening them but didn't help I know this can't be right will have keep working with it because I couldn't even hear for a conversation the noise the air was making was so loud and cold whew it felt like the A/C was blowing on my neck. This was the very reason I sold my 190sl to buy this because it wasn't airtight and I hated rain dripping in and a noisy cabin, I don't think my expectations are too high but its worse than any speedster I ever had so something must really be out of whack, its just that I was looking really forward to getting rid of this very thing that I hate so much and inturn would always sell the speedsters I had , will have to really troubleshoot it. was wondering if the picture shows the gap on the horizontal gasket above door glass and if it should be that big also where door meets pillar a one inch gap and of course at top of glass when driving the glass shakes at top corner creating an opening for air Oh and just to clarify its a 2001 IM roadster that I just bought will have to update profile.

I am going to have a handle put in the middle or the header bow area to be able to grab and lift forward would make it so much easier and also to align left or right when latching it closed. I also like the chrome inside handles on this IM makes it nicer to close the doors.

Jane, It is possible to adjust the window glass for a better fit,that will definitely close the gap at the top of the windows. It is a straight forward procedure that requires that you first remove the door panels. Remove the door handle first,and then the screws that fasten the panel to the door. At this point the panel should come off. Next you must remove the paper vapor barrier. It is glue on with contact cement,so proceed carefully, so as not to tear it upon removal. If you can not remove it without ruining it,you'll need to create a template to replace it with. At this point the window mechanism should be exposed. Run the window up and down a few times so that you can see the workings of same. You will see that there is a stop(probably a screw or a small bolt that is threaded into the track at the top of the mechanism). That screw/bolt is the adjustment point for the windows travel up and down. Since the windows needs to go up about an inch,that adjustment screw/bolt will have to be completely removed. Be careful!Once the screw/bolt is removed,the window glass will want to slide down into the track. It must not free-fall into the track,as this will most likely break the glass.Find a way to keep the glass propped in place( a small pear of vice grip pliers clamped to the track works just fine. Next,you will need to experiment a little to find the best spot to drill and tap a new hole in the track for the relocation of the screw/bolt stop. Again,be careful!! Do not set the hole to high,or when the window goes up,it will have to much travel and it could shatter the glass. Trial and error fit before drilling and tapping new stop hole. Once you have completed adjustment,reassemble door panel. Good luck!

Just one more thing,Jane. While the door is apart, this would be an opportunity for you to remove whatever water is inside.

Jane,

Yes, I'm afraid that the little horse will prove to be useless for this, but what a wonderful animal!

My car is also a 2001 IM roadster and I've no experience that equates to yours at all. Something is definitely wrong with either the assembly or some parts for it to be as you've described.

My top closes securely and easily, with the caveat of either two lifters or being in the seat as one lifter. It is also impressively quiet inside for a convertible as well as not letting in a single drop of water during my rainy delivery day during which the truck could get no closer than four miles to my house and so I drove it home. (As I've avoided rainy day driving since I can't say with surety that it will never let in any water but it's looking good so far.

I've got to be out for a lot of today but I'll see about some photos of the bow assembly of mine to post for you by tomorow if noone else has done so. At first exam of your photos I'm glad to see no rust issues exist, but I'm not sure of the nut between bow parts shown in one picture. It looked odd, but I can't say right now if it's like mine is. There may be other things to discover in differences between yours and mine and I regret that I don't have the time to get into it today.

Marty, I don't drink. I used to, but haven't for nearly seventeen years. Being without bourbon makes me crazy! :)

Had to use the crummy little camera and it's flash but maybe these will help a little:

well I got all the water out of the doors and yes Alan good suggestion to allign the window regulator but I feel the issues are in the top frame itself I called the person whom I bought it from recently to see if the top was replaced but he said not he was fortunate to have not really driven it too much with the top up but he did say it was a snug fit, which it is very much so but the frame is definitely not right thanks a lot Ken I got the pictures and will have my mechanic look at them he's awesome with this kind of stuff I don't know if I ever told you guys but I have a small car lot and we restore a lot of vw campers so he has a lot of experience with dealing with rubber gaskets, window regulators etc when replacing them in a vw bus I have learned from experience to buy the factory OEM parts rather then the selection of parts made all over the place they really do make a difference, I can't wait for him to see the pics of Ken's top frame. So odd to me still that the main big hinge wouldn't fold down flat but instead leaned a few inches outside the car sitting on the outer ledge and couldn't be forced in any way I thought for sure after that this top frame had to have been removed. And I'll have to shoot better pics to show the huge space at the far right corner where door meets body thats the main area area where air was pouring in and could anyone tell if the horizontal strip at top of glass where a 2 piece gaskets runs the top of the glass should there be a gap that big seems to me a perfect place for air to get in too.

Peter and ken do you know if on both hinged arms you see little bungies cords that go through the drilled holes just curious as they are NOT in mine and in the pictures ken posted they are there this could be the issue.

Ken,

if its not too much trouble could use post a picture with your top closed from the inside that shows the corner of the window where meets body as well as outside some view appreciate your pictures you posted because we have noticed a major difference ,in your first picture right below the black snap the L shaped bar with mini bungie cords is not present on my top frame.

Hi Jane,

Yes, I will do and no, it's not too much trouble. Unfortunately it may be a day or two before it's done. My car is on stands currently and at home while we're out of town for the holiday.

I'm sure that the car being on stands won't interfere with raising the top and getting a few pictures for you.

As to the little bungee cord loop - I do remember seeing them but I don't remember noticing their function. This means that whatever they do is of relatively little importance or that they do their part so seamlessly they don't attract my attention.

The only slight difficulty I've had with the top is it's tendency to need a firm pull to have it release from itself after it's been pushed down as far as it goes. Probably means that I've been using too much pressure when lowering it into the car. It jams onto itself a little bit and needs only a quick jerking (a quick jerk's pull :) ) pull to release from there. After that it goes up and down easily and always in alignment.

Ken with repect to the little bungy cords without them the middle bow of the top mech won't position proper. I too hard this problem
and asked Henry Reisner at Carlislie last spring. When in doubt ask the builder. I hope Jane is able to address the problems. I hope to
post some pics of the only IM roadster with power Volvo seats soon.
Enjoy the car before winter sets in. Prof JVE

John,
what ya doing with the original IM seats? I would be interested in them if you wanted to sell and if they are from a non pan based IM.
email pcelenta at yahoo.com.


regards,
Paul

well I must say after a totally enjoyable weekend all due to this awesome humble roadster I am growing to love more everyday I'm realizing that when putting the top up I have to pull back toward to rear of the car fist to engage the opening of the large hinge don't know if they're all like this bug I don't remember my other IM roadster this way not that its bad but I must say because of this I have to be outside the car to put the top up my arms aren't long enough on the inside, if I grab briskly and yank backward they arms then lock and I can pull forward in one easy sweep, is this right? in any event it works well but I wish I could do it from inside but whose complaining I love this roadster and wouldn't part with it for nothing. Do you think the little bungies are from IM's installation they almost appear as something that was done by a former owner but what do I know. These seats are incredibly comfortable I can't believe how much so my other "D" IM was older and didn't have thiese roadster seats wow I'm just lovin these and the power of the blower fan , this is like heaven on wheels but I might have to consult the Dr. who hopefully can install the answer to more heat for me Alan is pretty close to me so hopefully he won't mind lending his 356 wisdom to me and possibly help me with these little issues, by the way I really want to thank everyone for their kind ears and offering of support not only in helping in the descision making of what maker etc but also in the lending of ideas in my effort to perfect this little baby and also to Tom Buchanan for his emailed funnies that helped divert the stress of paying for this thing!!! LOL seriously everyone has been awesome and I'm really looking forward to meeting all of you at this years Carlisle.

Isn't this like your third replica, Jane?

Money can't buy everything,but my roadster comes pretty darn close! Instead of grabbin a cold beer after a hard days work...I warm up the ole IM and take a little cruise. Then I drink BEER!!!!!!

Dude, I hear ya.

Been raining off and on here all day, but I needed to go to the local hardware store for some parts for my power washer, so jumped into the Speedster and headed out. Drove past Port Royal Sound, where an early battle of the Civil War happened on December 1-4, 1861 - That's a BIG DEAL here in Port Royal! One of the Union boats (the Planter) was captained by Robert Smalls, a black hero of the Civil War after escaping from the Confederacy. Google him - he's cool. Later, he became a Senator from South Carolina during Reconstruction.

There's a small flotilla out in the sound reenacting the battle. Not exactly the same with sunfish sailers and spud guns, but you get the idea.

Got home with the parts just before the next rain, fixed the washer and am now typing this while enjoying a Sam Adams Seasonal Black and Brew Coffee Stout. Sounds yucky....tastes great.

Life is, indeed, good!

gn

Jane: Is it possible that the bungee cord seen on the other installation is for that backward/latching movement?

Jane, here's a couple more images for reference. It'd be useless to have one showing the mechanism fully in place as it's covered entirely by top material.

The second image is the position of the thing with the top within about ten inches of it's lock-on up position.

hey thanks my mechanic is coming in later so he'll have a look at the pictures I'm sure they'll be a help but I did come to find that when putting the top up I have to pull back on it to get the arms to fold out and my arms aren't long enough to do it inside the car so I have to get out, ugh getting lazy in my old age. hey I'm thinking of selling my electric speedster its a CMC that a guy built himself it's surprising peppy but I need to have the front fender fixed on route from CA the transporters had an accident and damaged the drivers fender also the whole windshield assembly is ruined. will update and post pics on the classified section and yea Stan I've had a few over the years for sure but this is onlyl my second roadster all the others were speedsters and here on this other coast I need real windows but I still need heat with this baby whew it takes a long long did I say long time to get warm!!!!