This summer I adjusted my timing and the popping stopped. I have a graduated pulley and it reads about 20
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This summer I adjusted my timing and the popping stopped. I have a graduated pulley and it reads about 20
Mike...
I think you would be well ahead of the game by putting a timing light on the beast. IMHO 20* advance is not enough to achieve safe max performance. 28-30 BFTDC at 3000 RPM is the magic number that I've lived with for many years.
Ernie
I think you would be well ahead of the game by putting a timing light on the beast. IMHO 20* advance is not enough to achieve safe max performance. 28-30 BFTDC at 3000 RPM is the magic number that I've lived with for many years.
Ernie
Things a little slow up there in the Great Autumnal North??
OK, let's see;
So today I took off my exhaust and checked my gaskets. Because I had a sound of an exhaust leak.
So how did they look? did you replace them or just put them back? Were any of them showing carbon dusting indicating a leak?
I adjusted my valves. This is the question part. I but cylinder #1 at TDC using the scribe on the distributor and the arm on the rotor and it is at about 20
OK, let's see;
So today I took off my exhaust and checked my gaskets. Because I had a sound of an exhaust leak.
So how did they look? did you replace them or just put them back? Were any of them showing carbon dusting indicating a leak?
I adjusted my valves. This is the question part. I but cylinder #1 at TDC using the scribe on the distributor and the arm on the rotor and it is at about 20
Update: Oil leak was a seal on 2 pushrod tubes. Both on cylinder #2. Both seals were on the head side. I didn't have any seals so.....
I took 2 garden hose washers and placed them on the middle of the tubes and took the middle seals and moved them to the head side.
DRY as a bone.
New seals are on order.
Exhaust leak sound is still there. I think I have no choice but to change the system out. A spring job since it's close to storage time.
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I still wanna know how she turns her right hand that way ;>)
Do you have slip joints in your exhaust system? Sometimes those get a little loose and "puff". Or maybe look for a split in the seam of a muffler....
gn
Do you have slip joints in your exhaust system? Sometimes those get a little loose and "puff". Or maybe look for a split in the seam of a muffler....
gn
...I bet if you lift that car off of her head, her boobs would deflate to normal size!
Not to hijack here but Mike could you shed a little light on that roll bar of yours. Like where you got it, is it "in the way" at all, ect.... I am considering one for my Carrera Project. Thanks.
Mickey-It was on the car. It's an early 80's build. The bar was extended to the floor and rear frame part of the car so seems pretty solid. Many of the early cars, CMC etc.. were built with this kind of bar.
Gordon- I checked like mad and its coming from the right side, so not the muffler. I had the exhaust out, gasket sealed all gaskets and it's still there. The mechanic (I had to go see one) thinks the muffler may have a broken baffle inside which would be cheaper to change the whole thing out. I may go for the new oversize 2 pipes that CIP offers.
Jim- LOL, I kept the car on her head because it looks better
Gordon- I checked like mad and its coming from the right side, so not the muffler. I had the exhaust out, gasket sealed all gaskets and it's still there. The mechanic (I had to go see one) thinks the muffler may have a broken baffle inside which would be cheaper to change the whole thing out. I may go for the new oversize 2 pipes that CIP offers.
Jim- LOL, I kept the car on her head because it looks better
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I'm probably a little late on this issue as I'm on a 2 month motorhome trip however, look in the "Knowledge" section of this forum and I wrote a piece on how to adjust your valves. Everything is predicated on your starting and adjusting the valves while each is at Top dead Center. As stated, the most advance you want is 28 degrees before TDC. If you can get 96+ octane, you can safely run 30 to 32 degree's but there isn't much power difference between a "safe" 28 and 32. At the higher numbers of advance, you run the tragic risk of detonation and that is an engine killer
So, Larry......
Where you "Motor-homing" to?
Stay-at-home minds want to know!
Where you "Motor-homing" to?
Stay-at-home minds want to know!
Gordon, sorry for being 3 months too late but,,, we headed north through Nevada, Utah, Colorado, South DAkota, Missouri, Indiana, Tennessee, Georgia, Alabama, Mississippi, back to Tennessee, Arkansas, Texas, New Mexico, Arizona then home. 6,250 miles in the motorhome and about 700 on the car we towed.
Larry, sounds like a great trip! I was wondering where you have been. Welcome back!
How does one determine TDC if the engine crank pulley does not have a '0' or TDC noted?
If you're looking for TDC #1 for valve adjustment, then remove your distributor cap, look at the rotor and line it up with the number 1 spark plug wire.
If your pulley has notches, then one of those notches is probably TDC. If you have multiple notches then the one farthest to the left (as viewed from the back of the car looking forward) is TDC
More than likely, the other notch or notches are timing marks set to different degree's before top dead center
If your pulley has notches, then one of those notches is probably TDC. If you have multiple notches then the one farthest to the left (as viewed from the back of the car looking forward) is TDC
More than likely, the other notch or notches are timing marks set to different degree's before top dead center