Question about negative battery cable grounding point on CMC?

Ok guys, getting ready to throw the old Type IV into the car. Where did you connect the negative battery cable to? I replaced the trans grounding strap with new ones and all the motor mounts. Where is a good place to ground this puppy at? Its a CMC and it has a little different frame than most as it used to be a test mule for the factory.
The old ground was attached to the rotary engine block so on a CMC where is a good grounding point?

Michael

The starter motor bolt, or (with a longer cable) the bolt on the frame horn where the trans strap grounds to.

that sounds pretty good. I think I will use the starter bolt...


thanks TC..

Michael

and lock washer.

Michael, if you haven't already got a cable for the hot side, I have a suggestion. I just saw it done for the first time last night when we conjured mine up.
Start by getting a thick, red wire with an inside diameter about like your pinky finger. Get corresponding copper eyelet/socket ends and a roll of solder. Trim about an inch off of the insulation, revealing stranded wire inside.
Heat the socket with a Harry Homeowner-style propane torch until it's hot, stick the copper core of the cable into it and feed the solder in until the socket's full to overflowing. Let stand for five minutes, clean with a wire wheel and wrap with electrical tape.
Mine came out okay, and cost less than five bucks to make.
On a related note, if you need grounding straps, I have two I'll happily send you. One's eight inches, and the other is 18 inches. Both are the same kind of flat, braided steel that looks like collapsed stainless fuel line. Still in the boxes.

(My ground wire is an off-the-shelf job. I didn't go too crazy.)

Michael,

Good mention of the trans grounding strap. I've heard more than one mechanic who found a throttle cable burned through over time because it was acting as the ground after someone forgot to properly reinstall the strap. Ok, I forgot it once myself but fortunately got away with it because I had solid mounts - for a while (on a V8 Karmann Ghia).

I'd suggest connecting the battery ground cable to the starter as TC mentioned to the starter mounting stud rather than the engine/starter mounting bolt. It just seems that it would be easier to deal with.

Bob

Hey Cory,

After looking at your recent wiring project, I'm going to invest in zip-tie stock!!

Awesome progress, and your handi-work is definitely car-show quality!

Peace - Out!

Cory,
I am ok on the grounding straps as I got a new one and replaced the old one.
I will try your recommendation.... The work you are doing on your car is nothing short of awesome. Great work, you are going to have a great vehicle that anyone would be proud of.

Times sorta at a premium as is money as I going to try to buy my own medical practice. At my age going into debt for about 400 big ones is sorta scary.....I am not a physican, but I am a PA so its always been my dream to own my own practice.


Michael

Wow. Good luck with the practice. If you need stuff, holler; my budget is that of a bachelor. Happy to help with little stuff.

Cory,
After seeing your professional wiring job you surely will never have a major issue in that department,simply just beautiful (and saying that isn't just for me to get a ride in the Speedy )

Thanks, Alan. Michael, one more thing. I've had 20-odd cars in as many years, and it's been my experience that wiring that isn't secured as well as it possibly can be will give you problems at points where it rubs or where the connections bounce too much. That's why we went nuts with the zip-ties. The majority of the wiring you see in the Hoopty is as A-to-B as it can be, and every wire was tested before it was connected. Check switches, too. All four of my guard switches came from Mexico, and they were manufactured upside-down. Off was on, and on was off. Figuring that out first saved a huge headache.
If you can solder your connections, do so. I'd suggest practicing on an old battery-powered transistor radio from a thrift store somewhere. Hack a few wires loose at random, solder them back together and then turn it on to check your work.
I worked for the Armed Forces Television and Radio Service for so many years that wiring is easy for me -- and the Wrench knew what to connect to what. I think Alan's right in that I should never, ever have a problem -- and none of that harness is going to move enough to shake loose. I'd suggest buying a bag of ties and hitting any long runs with them while you're still inoperative.
And Alan, your ride is a sure bet. Thanks, though. It's always nice to receive praise from a master -- but I'm not done yet. I'm going to put a little Skunk Works finishing touch on that nexus behind the dash. Gonna make it a "pheasant under glass."

(I know these are already in the other thread, but I'm kinda proud of 'em.)