Putting 12mm "screw in" wheel studs and open end lug nuts on my VS Speedster. Am I correct in assuming that the studs are torqued in to the brake hubs at the standard 75 LBS before mounting the wheels. Or are they just snugged in and secured with red Locktight? Your help much appreciated!
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Robert- doesn't the 4x130mm bolt pattern use 14mm lug bolts?
Robert M posted:...I recently fought with my rim while putting it back on my car...
I'll probably make this change eventually, too.
But for now, I sit cross-legged on the floor in front of the wheel, rest the wheel on my feet, and use them to raise the wheel the inch or so it takes to align with the bolt holes.
I'm sure the yoga folks have a name for this position.
No, you don't torque them down to 75lbs, they will push through the drum or rotor. Snug them down and lock tight. The wheels get the 75 to 100lbs to hold the rim on.
Please make sure you get the correct lug nuts, they need to be Ball and Seat not tapered. They look very close, but not the same. If you have Ball and Seat rims, tapered will push through the rim and bottom out on the drum or rotor and leave your wheels loose.
Just had to change over a customer's lug nuts for just that things. Very dangerous.
We sell them if you can't find local. I think Honda is also ball and seat.
Sorry guys. Like I said these are "screw in" (threads on both ends), not press fit studs. They are going on Wide five disc brake rotors. Just need to know from someone who has done this upgrade if they are torqued in or not. I will Locktite either way.
Alex, I just reread you response and I now get that you were talking about "threaded" studs not press fit. OK, got it, just snug and locktite! Thanks!
I didn't want to hijack Steve's thread so I will do my research and ask questions in a different thread.
Just giving my two sense. Don't bother with the screw in studs on a vw drum. Take your time and drill and spot face the inside of the drum and press in studs. I used dorman 12 & 14 mm press in studs with no issues. You can also use sway a way studs.
If you have drum brakes make sure the stud isn't sticking in past the inside of the drum face. If it does, it can snag the return springs. Don't ask how I found out.
Oops, just read all the posts and see you have all disks. Disregard my post.
Al;
Mine are 14mm.
Art
"Wheel stud"?? -- somebody talking about me??
I red loctited the crap out of them, then threaded in snug.
I used M12x1.5 studs for AC Industries front and rear wide-5 discs.
Trevor, perfect! That's what's going on my car. Can I ask what model Konis you have mounted? Do you like them?
Looking good. I didn't torque mine down. I just put 'em in and snugged them up. I toque the wheels to spec.
No problems so far...
T
The "Konis" in the front are actually EMPI super cheap oil-filled shocks. Lots of info in this forum about them working the best. Sprayed them red, and bought a couple stickers from Koni. The rears are KYB GR-2/Excel-G shocks. Fake Porsche, didn't think it was too big a deal to have fake shocks. ;-)
Trevor, genius! I need to hang out with you!!!
You should not use Honda ball seat lug nuts for M12x1.5 studs because Honda uses a 12mm ball radius and VW wheels are 13mm ball radius. The VW ball seat nuts are hard to find for M12 studs, this is the only place I've found so far:
www.race-studs.com/collections/m12x1-5/products/12mm-hardened-steel-vw-audi-racing-nuts
Fake decals on the shocks?? THAT is going the extra mile.
