Big Al wrote: "Even line boring during a rebuild doesn't save some cases, as they won't hold their dimensions."
Al Gallo found a really good engine builder here in Mass. who built his engine. Dana, his builder, has been around almost forever (I've been here forever - he came in right after I did) and went through 4 or 5 engine cases for Al before he found one that he liked that wasn't screwed up by excessive heat or something else. Heat takes its' toll, for sure.
Back in the day, nearly every shop had the capability to line-bore cases. New cases were about $300, but labor was (apparently) still cheap enough to warrant "fixing" them. Shops in the game for the long-haul, with a reputation to protect didn't dork around with it. They just built on a new case.
A new AS41 mag case is about $1200. The "bubble-tops" are about $950.
Even at that price, it's still worth it to just get a new one.
As I said in another thread, I changed from 20-50 to 10-40. Oil temp AND CHT dropped ten degrees across the board about 10-15 thousand miles ago. All seasons. Cold weather starts are a bit easier as well, spins right around.
I'm at 40K plus in an engine that I honestly thought I'd have exploded or rebuilt by now. It's still running very strong. And the maker, you know who, only wants 20-50 to be used, and is quite emphatic about that.
About 30 thousand miles ago I switched to Valvoline 4 stroke motorcycle oil. Available at any Autozone, over in the specialty section, not where the mass market oils are. Originally I was running 20-50 and changed to 10-40. Works great, oil temp is 180 or so fully warmed up. Oil pressure is close to 100(20-50) at startup and once warmed up, 20 pounds at idle and 60 pounds at 3000. I guess I got a good one.
Oh yeah AL: Webcam 86B, Pauter roller rockers 1.5:1
If I could run those O/Ps with hot oil, I'd run the thinnest stuff I could as well.
ALB posted:PS- @slowshoes - The Valvoline 10W30 NSL (Not Street Legal) Conventional Racing Oil didn't have enough detergents or anti- corrosion agents for the street, and was the strictly racing oil. It has been discontinued. The VR1 Conventional Racing Oil (silver bottle) and VR1 Synthetic Racing Oil (black bottle) are available, have detergent/anti-corrosion adpacks for the street and both fared quite well in 540 Ratblog's oil wear protection test.
https://540ratblog.wordpress.c...l-wear-test-ranking/
Thanks for the clarification Al. I noticed that the VR1 did well in the test data as well - I think I'm going to give it a try.
Regarding oil pressures - what are considered good oil pressures and how do I get the readings?
It is nice to see other people running more than 10psi/1000rpm. Mine is similar to Danny's when warmed up and I was afraid I have a problem since it is higher than 10/1000.
@Stan Galat wrote- " I care WAY more about what the oil pressure is than I do about what a Micky Mouse fuel gauge estimates is in the tank (... full.... full... full... full... full... 1/4 tank... empty)."
Your stuff is always worthwhile, Stan, but that's the laugh of the day!
You so hit the nail on the head...
@slowshoes (I don't think I've caught your first name yet)- You need to install an aftermarket oil pressure gauge and sender. An electric VDO is fine. They start on this page-
http://www2.cip1.com/SearchRes...p;show=25&page=6
Current automotive industry thinking says that 10 lbs./1,000 rpm (when at operating temps) is about right for oil pressure. And yeah, I know Stan likes it somewhat higher; it's one of the things we've agreed to disagree on. I agree with (I forget who) about the thermostat switches for the extra coolers- 180' is just getting warmed up. It would be nice to see oil start passing through the cooler about 20 degrees higher. Also, as mentioned, your oil doesn't have to get to 212' to "boil off" the moisture- it stops forming and starts evaporating out at 180'.
Yoda out (for now, but back you know I will be!)
A little off topic but does anyone know if Pat Downs performs the Hoover mods on the engines he builds? I've got a 2110 he built in '13.
Nope.
Al, Slowshoes "real" name is Bill.
RE pressure gauge:
I bought a mechanical one(verified pressure accuracy via my air compressor's gauge) and plumbed it into a male/female AN-8 fitting with a 1/8" pipe thread tap in the middle. Since I have all braided hoses I can theoretically monitor oil pressure anywhere in my system. I checked it coming out of the filter in the hose that goes into the main(full-flow) gallery.
My engine has no built in cooler, a MESA 96 remote plate cooler with fan, and both an engine oil and fan thermostat.
But I don't monitor my oil pressure, I only have the idiot light on the dash.
I do monitor my blood pressure!
OMG, the heresy! Don't shoot me, Stan!
And Yoda, I agree, I just bought a Derale 190 oil thermostat and a 190 fan switch, couldn't find a 200 so that will have to do.
I'll be putting them in Thursday I hope......there's still some nice leaf peeping weather ahead, 75 degrees and sunny today.
My idiot lights are wired the reverse of what is stated in the VS manual. After having my alternator light come on, I of course thought it was
DannyP posted:But I don't monitor my oil pressure, I only have the idiot light on the dash.
I do monitor my blood pressure!
OMG, the heresy! Don't shoot me, Stan!
My idiot lights are wired the reverse of what's specified in the VS manual, so after having my alternator light come on, I of course, thought it was the oil pressure light. A couple of heart attacks and a bit of investigation later, I figured out they were reversed.
I didn't really want to start another oil thread, (I'm sure there was plenty of eye rolling), but after my research, I really thought the Brad Penn was the answer for me, so I just wanted to verify that the correct BP oil. Ed's link regarding the test data for oils has me re thinking the BP for now.
At any rate, you guys have helped me, once again, learn more about my car. Many of my questions about engine temps and oil pressure has, at the very least, put me on the right path in regards to both. Many thanks fellas - hopefully there's good info for other new guys too.
Bill
DannyP posted:... I don't monitor my oil pressure, I only have the idiot light on the dash.
I do monitor my blood pressure!
OMG, the heresy! Don't shoot me, Stan!
I'm afraid I can't let this one slide, Mr. Pipereto. You'll either need to trade your BP cuff for a permanent gauge, or be shot at dawn. If we let this one slide, you'll just start skipping valve-adjustments. It's a slippery slope. Today an O/P gauge, tomorrow you're sliding behind the wheel of a Tesla.
It's your engine. Do as you please.
It's Piperato, Stanley! Shoot me already.
But absolutely I like electric at home, but not powering my automobile.
And I do my valves once a year, in spring. Maybe not next year, I don't think I'll even hit 1000 miles this year with all the downtime.
