Just realized I left my light on last time I drove my car during the day. Now I have no lights. What's the issue? Did bulbs burn out?
Thanks for the help!
Dan
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Fuse, relay stuck or if no relay, switch burnt - since they were on longer than usual. Or wire corroded or loose (maybe a ground). Worth looking at bulbs if they are 3 year old. I use OSRAM Silverstar Ultras and lucky if I get much over a year from them. Use a volt meter to see if there is voltage to the lights.
Can start at one end or the other. If starting at the bulb, take the bulb out, test it with a electrical tester by turning it to measure "Ohm's".
symbol: Ω)
You will know that you have the electrical tester set to "Ohm's" by looking for the symbol and then touching the 2 probes together and the meter will move.
Place one probe on the side of the bulb and the other probe on the bottom of the bulb and see if there is a reading. If there is a reading then the bulb is good, if none then bulb bad.
These cars are pretty simple......have you tried looking for/at the fuse to see if it's blown?
Look up under the dash. There is typically a small fuse strip with torpedo-like fuses in it and one of them may have a blown fuse strip.
My headlight switch has a fuse on the switch itself. It has burned out in the past. In fact, the switch has burned out as well.
Also had a headlight switch burn out!
Jim...do you recall if your headlight switch was quite warm to the touch before it went US ? Mine seems to be quite warm when turned on and I still have that annoying "click" sound from time to time in the vicinity of the headlight switch even when the lights are off. Sounds pretty much like a breaker going off. Thanks.
Originally Posted by MusbJim - '95 VS SoCal:Also had a headlight switch burn out!
x2!
X3
If you haven't killed the battery, and everything else works, it's probably the switch.
Got Lucky...just the fuse this time 
Thanks for the help!
If your switch gets hot then you are probably using the switch to supply full voltage to the headlights (and its arcing) -- 55 watts or so. A headlight is like a toaster. Not only can this burn out the switch and possibly the wiring but you also aren't getting all the needed power to the headlights so they aren't as bright as they should be. There should be a relay in the circuit - with battery power supplied directly to headlights via the relay.
Originally Posted by David Stroud Ottawa Canada '83 IM Soob:
Jim...do you recall if your headlight switch was quite warm to the touch before it went US ? Mine seems to be quite warm when turned on and I still have that annoying "click" sound from time to time in the vicinity of the headlight switch even when the lights are off. Sounds pretty much like a breaker going off. Thanks.
David - I didn't notice that the switch got hot. Parking lights would come on, the low-beam didn't light up and couldn't click the high-beam. Replaced the switch with one from Kirk/VS.
Dr. Dan - glad to hear your fix was easy! 
Before my switch went it got hot. Very hot.
There are no relays on my JPS.