Quick Shift spacer

The quick shift kit raises the pivot point, meaning the shift knob end moves less relative to the movement of the ball coupling in the tunnel. The kit includes an extra bushing for the shift lever which becomes the new pivot point, and the thick mounting plate.

 Another simple trick is to shorten a spare shift lever  a  inch or a 1,1/2 inch and re thread it.. makes the throws shorter as well..  You can try it in stages to find what you want to your custom taste with or  without the spacer.

Or you could cut to the chase and get a 40% reduced throw shifter with trigger actuated reverse lockout.  Not only will the throws be shorter, but the mushiness will be gone, because there is no more spring on the bottom.

Three choices:

- CSP with ball & curved handle (what I have):

http://www.csp-shop.de/cgi-bin...fter%2CCSP%2Dshifter

- Vintage Speed Shifter:

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/V...-p/155-795-50700.htm

- Empi Trigger Shifter (I believe what IM installs):

http://www.amazon.com/Empi-445...-Short/dp/B006WUHEWY

Thanks guys for the information and suggestions.

I do have an Empi trigger shifter (purchased second hand without instructions) that I attempted to install but it has a very stiff horizontal coil spring in the housing that pushes the ball hard to its left (shifting lever being hard to the right) preventing me to position it in neutral before bolting it down. 

I replaced that spring with a softer one from the hardware store. Also replaced the reverse lockout trigger spring so it wasn't so ridiculously stiff. It is a bit fiddly to get all the parts back together if you disassemble it.

Thanks Justin

Here's a TheSamba thread that I stumbled across searching for information: This is a four page step by step installation instructions.

http//www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/hurst saf t trigger shifter.php

The Empi is a clone of the Hurst trigger shifter and apparantly a lot of people (like me!) have found that installing it can be a bit finicky.

Wow, hadn’t given thought about these tricks since drag racing VW’s in the 80’s.

So I thought I’d boar some of you with the technical logistics of how to make a quick shifting system work.

 It’s just a matter of a quick shift kit as stated above on a stock straight shifter rod handle and the real trick…, grabbing the shifter at the base to shift gears. It’s simple mechanics; it’s as thou you’ve cut your shifter handle down even shorter and reduced the throw even more.

Quick Shifting Tip - Preload your shift by having a slight pull/push on the base of the handle in the direction you’re going before even shifting out of that gear to the next. Doing this while under hard acceleration / power, it will stay in gear and well only pop out as soon as you let off the throttle, this is a timing thing at this point…, clutch and gas have to be spot on for the next gear.

Now if you’re really serious and want all the gory details…, read on.

- Take all of slop out of your linkage by installing a new shifter shaft rod bushing

- Use the lightest shift handle possible, I believe supper beetles were 1/2” in dia. and straight shaft and hollow

- Cut off the shifter shaft transmission coupler and weld in a 1/2” x 1/2” ratchet swivel, this eliminates addition linkage slop

- If you’re leaning forward to shift, relocate the shift box so you aren’t

As to the transmission; it goes without saying to have a box built for quick shifting (pro-rings, steel shift forks). But a bug box will work for time, but its life is limited with racing starts and quick shifts.

- Oil weight makes a difference; heavy weight gives good gear deceleration for quicker gear mesh, but harder to shift

- You can have the gears drilled and lighten; again – gear deceleration for quicker gear mesh

- Use a Berg brand 3 puck disc with metallic pads, it’s very light and in doing so…, once again gear deceleration = quick gear mesh = faster times…, it is a violent disc and transmission eater though.

I hear tell in the racing world there’s better toys now, so if you can help our economy, it’s only money, spend it.

David     /     dd-ardvark

David, I could have used your advice in the old days during my failed attemps to 'get' second gear rubber in my lead sled '50 Mercury... trying to impress the dollies in the poodle skirts and saddle shoes!

These days I simply want to take the slop out, shorten the shifting throw and avoid downshifting from third to reverse...No drag racing. No quick shifting through the intersections. In fact, I like that pause and exhaust burble between gears. 

VW dealers no longer carry the plastic bushing (VW# 111 701 259A) and forward support bracket...so the Internet search begins!

Hey Carl, just go to the Samba web site and do a simple search fo "shift, shift bush, shift bushing or bushing". You'll find more info than you need.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/  http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/search.php

David     /     dd-ardvark

On my car 'Bucket List' (amongst others) is a chopped & channeled 50 Merc! IMO -the book of Bad-A$$ is based on that car!

Well, this is a bit of a thread 'drift', but what the hell...it's my thread anyway.

I grew up in Lynwood CA.  At one end of my paper route on Atlantic Avenue was George and Sam Barris Custom Auto shop. I'd sit there on my Schwinn and drool over the chopping and channeling of their magnificent metal creations. I watched them transform a '51 Merc. into the famous two tone green cover car owned by Hiryatchi.

Two miles farther up Atlantic in Southgate was the Clock Drive-In. Big, big Saturday night show off hangout for customs...and I often would be there sitting on my Schwinn and soaking it all in.

And you're right Bob. No matter what your HP, low n' slow parade cruising was the way to go.