Raby DTM

I know cory is running one, but he does not have to worry about hinges. Is anyone else running a DTM and having an issue closing the Deck lid? I had to replace the air hose "again" cuz it gets cut on the trunk hinge. I don't know what else to use. Anyone got any suggestions? I was thinking about going to an old TR triumph exterior hinges, but that is not going to work either. I know Desi used flat exterior hinges, but I don't think that is the route that I want to go. I tried just one hinge might work, but it did not. I am thinking of fabricating a lip-fulcrum-grabber-doo-hickey (made up word) on the right side and the normal hinge on the left-side.

I made some fiberglass mod's to get the deck lid to fit. Check out the rest of my photos.
Joe

I know this shroud is supposed to cure your cooling woes but I think it fell short at this stage of design. Why didn't they supply of mould a snail shaped fiberglass duct for that area.
You could make your own. Mould your tin hose into the shape you want, ovaling under the hinge. Then glass it. Pull your hose out when it sets up. You could also check on some companies that sell silicone hoses for turbo systems that would flex a bit(nice colors too).

Here's my motorcycle's carb air intake(prior to sanding). Glassed the original 35 year old rubber bit, then tossed it once dry. Very light, color to your choice

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p25/h2fzr/04-17-07_1216.jpg

I'm running a Type 1 DTM on my car, with no fitment issues at all. I'm not sure if it's a CMC thing, but the engine in my first car (a CMC) seemed to ride a lot higher in the engine bay than either the JPS or the IM.

Maybe that explains why finding suitable mufflers for CMC's seems to be more difficult than for other brands.

I've done two Type IV Raby motor installs in CMC's w/o clearance issues....stuff it in, bolt it up and hang on!

Like Joe has done, I have relieved a hole deck lid, but my issue is with the hinge. It cuts right across the cooling hose and the "depression" that it creates on a paper hose reaps havoc. I bought a 2" ID clear vinyl/rubber hose that fit over the output and would "collapse" but it would bind and cinch on the way back to the "receiver" air inlet. I am going to try a 2" OD coupler and try and join the clear tube to the paper tube so the hinge can "crush" vinyl tube with out fear of destroying another paper/foil air diverter. I will give it a whirl and post a pict if successful, otherwise I am giving the finger to the public at will.

BTW - it is a crappy motor carriage build

Kevin, I hope this doesn't sound stoopid, but have you considered a single leather hinge? A pair, maybe?

I have, but because there is a little "crush factor" meaning there has to be some downward force on the air hose (in the area of the right hinge)... if there is nothing to catch the lip of the opening, it will not sit flat and if it does not sit flat, the catch latch will not secure.

My Vintage gives a little hose crush to my DTM but it doesn't effect the way the decklid sits or the way the DTM performs. If I were a concourse-kind-of-guy I'd be all outta joint because my hose is bent a bit...No wait, that's another issue those purfectionists have to deal with!

If your hose is clearly indented where the exchange is taking place, I'd make up some sort of 'bandage' putting a smaller diameter hose or hose-substitute at the point of contact, coupled to the stock diameter hose at either end...

It's a small price to pay for such an improved approach to cooling in my estimation.

I have a similar issue with fitting my carrera lid to the IM with the 911 mill in the back.

Car came with no hinges but I'm going to adapt early 911 rear hinges. Where the hinge fits the body the bracket is about an inch wide but the 911 hinge is only 1/4 inch or so. I'm going to move one hinge (the one that rubs the oil breather hose going into the air filter housing) over to the inside of the 1 inch hinge bracket with a spacer....this just clears the hose.

I just reread your post and its a different problem than mine...but I did have a similar problem in another area. A bracket was rubbing and compressing another hose....

I that instance I got a rubber hose (an old rad hose) with an ID of about the same as the OD of the hose I wanted to protect. I thencut out a section bit enough to cover the hose that was being compromised and slipped it over to the spot where the bracket was compressing the hose. Helf it in place with hose clamps but it would look cleaner using that black Automotive GOOP. That added thickness of the rad hose means that the bracket now just pushes the hose out of the way and no longer compresses it. Some day it much wear through but it'll be some time. If that were a real issue than perhaps an additional metal sleeve for it to rub on and mayber even a teflon wear pad on the applicable spot on the hinge.

Paul, you can "fix" this issue many different ways but it is a "fix"
for a problem not a proper solution. A 2" section in the middle of a three inch hose degrades the capacity to a 2" hose the whole length. If you oval it (things still change a bit but)you still have
the same capacity.

I didn't like the idea of the duct hose getting pinched either. Not a good thing. I have fitted a stainless flex hose to the DTM . No air flow restriction.

I was too quick to respond.I had the same problem. I made a pair of new brackets ( they are the ones on the left). The ends were cut down to gain the clearance needed. Don't try to weld the CMC brackets. The aluminum is crap. If you remove too much material from the CMC brackets they will eventually crack and break. Let me know if you need a hand with them. I heading down to Mrtyle Beach next week for a family vacation. I do plan on stopping in Charleston for a day . Any suggestions what to see?
Joe

Yeah, that looks great. I am not sure that I would even have that much clearence to use the ones you fabbed. I will have to do some more measuring. The stainless steel piping... is that flexible exhaust tubing?

BTW - what is the mirrored box behind the shroud? Breather box?

I bought it through McMaster Carr. It's SS flex hose. It took some time and fitup to make it work. You have to squeeze it in a vise carefully to get the ovalality needed. I also made Tig welded some SS tubing to the ends of the hose for a nice tight fit. One tapped screw is need to secure each end of the hose. I know I have an extra piece in th e garage. Let me see how much is left. Mirrored box is a big oil breather.

Joe, please let me know if you come through here. Maybe we can meet for lunch or dinner or something. Mt. Pleasant is a suburb of Charleston. Phone: 843-856-5239.

As for what to see:
- SC Acquarium
- Market
- Rainbow Row
- The Battery
- Harbor tours
- Fort Sumter (where the Civil War started) via harbor tour boat
- Fort Moultrie (older than Sumter, where they used to bring the slaves in) on Sullivan's Island
- All of historic downtown
- Tons of great restaurants
- Carriage rides and walking tours
- Boone Hall plantation
- Middleton Place plantation
- Magnolia plantation

If you're a golfer:
- Kiawah is just 1 1/2 hours south
- Hilton Head is about 30 minutes further than that
- Wild Dunes Ocean Course (Isle of Palms)
- Many others

Many other things I can't remember. I much prefer Charleston to Myrtle Beach. The food's better, and it's less touristy.

Hilton head is about an hour and 45 minutes further... unless you are a bird, then it is 3o minutes. If you come to town, just give lane a shout and he'll call me. I am in the blue-collar-seeder-part of Charleston, unlike the white-collar neighbourhood that lane lives, but still very inviting. If you are only going to be in town for a day, I highly suggestion doing a carriage tour of Charleston... I know that it sound very touristique, but it is and it is a great time. My wife and I still take them. You can never have the same ride twice... every time we go, we learn something new. Myrtle Beach (or as it is know in Chucktown - MoBe) is a pretty cool little town. Make sure you catch a Legend's Show too. Again, very vegas-like, but a great time.

Hijack my own thread check this porsche powered bike...

http://thekneeslider.com/archives/2005/11/08/supercharged-porsche-powered-motorcycle/

If you do make it thru Hilton Head-may I suggest "Marley's" for dinner. Great spot, good food. Kind of Caribean sea food menu.--We vacationed in H.H. last month---very nice.

I don't like that kink!

this is what I will consider a temp fix, but a fix nonetheless. I am using a 2in clear vinyl hose, and 1 3/4 PVC coupler and then the paper stock hose. The paper hose is still binding a bit, but until I find a permanent solution... I guess this will have to doer. I may change the coupler to a 45 degree coupler to try and alleviate the binding of the paper hose. Once the vinyl looses it's stiffness, it will settle down. Right now it is pretty rigid. I had to use a heat gun and a vise, just to spread the openings wide enough to accept the coupler and the DTM opening.

Hijack....Kim and I were so impressed with the Legend's Shows, Broadway On The Beach and Crabby Mike's that we have been back three times......end of Hijack.

Kevin,
You may want to check on your posting on ShopTalkForums. Looks like Jake might have an answer for you if you post the question on his personal forum.
http://forums.aircooledtechnology.com/
Kind of curious to see what his solution is since I will probably run into the same problem when I try to put a type IV with DTM into my CMC.
Jim

Will you guys cut this out! All this talk is gonna draw Raby out of his hole.

It's like sayin' CandyMan three times in a row. No good is gonna ever come of it . . .

I, for some reason after posting the first time at aircooled, can not post again. It says that the administration did not give me rights to post again. Anything that difficult makes my brain melt.

No, that's beetlejuice three times...

I thought it was Cthulu ...

...I thought it was 'Dolly Parton's Biggest Hits'!!

OK, ready.

Place both hands against the sides of your face with the palms facing out, elbows up, fingers pointing forwards. Now rotate your hands so the the fingers point towards the floor. Now rotate your hands just a bit more so the fingers now face behind you, with palms out. Now walk over to the mirror and wiggle your fingers . . .

Cthulhu on a motorcycle.


PISSA, huh ? ! ? ! ? ! ? !

I haven't EVER laughed that hard on this site. One more Cthulu reference and old Lovecraft is gonna come get us ...
Oops ... Quick, how do I erase ---- AUUUGH ahhhhhhhh thud

SCREEEEEEAACCCCCH>>>>>>>>>>> Hold the phone! I went home for lunch today and while eating my sammich and pondering WTF and staring at the ass of the car, it occurred to me (BELLS RINGING DING DING DING DING) Dumbass (I thought to myself). The shroud does not fit because the rear-end is sagging. I looked at the engine bay glass, where it meets the frame and I guess the guy who built the kit used glue? Or some kinda bonding material and the body is (well I guess slowly) slowly sinking down from the frame because there is a lip about half inch. I saw this lip before, but I had other fish to fry when I first noticed it, so I ignored it. I guess what I will have to do this weekend is fix the saggy back end? I am not looking forward to that, but I think that would be a good fix and I guess it would also prevent my doors from opening when rounding the sicanes at max speed? I don't know what was used to bond, but if anyone has any suggestion on preparations to do this... HOLLAR. I know that there is a thread on this some where, but any suggestions via email would be welcomed too. I think the suggestion was to use a 2x4 and a jack and slowy jack the rear end up. How much and what would the suggestion be to secure it? I would imagine that this is all in the CMC manual that is posted, so that will be my next visit. But any of you that built your own, let me know what materials I will need before I start the CF.

Glad you caught it before you had bigger problems!
I'll be interested to see how you fix it. If worse comes to worst, I'll throw the saws-all in the Hoopty and make a road trip.
Can you get three-quarter-inch tubing easily, or should I plan on bringing some?

I like the road trip idea, Cory.

We may need to come survey for the new casa, anyway. ... If we're lucky.
She hasn't heard back yet.
Kevin ... What the doofus who built my car did -- or one of his henchmen -- was jack and bolt, in the same way as you're describing. Gently lift with one floor-jack, and drill for bolts when its's at the desired height.
About six or seven bolts per side would probably work, all along that CMC box tubing. He used two on one side and three on the other, or some BS like that.
I guess you'd be well advised to set a stopper of some kind on your doors, making sure the gaps are even along the whole door edge to figure out when you've got the back end set.
There's a boatload of knowledge under the search word "SAG" here, though.
And I'm buying a new blade for the saw in the morning ...

I posted this process some time ago but who knows where that is so here goes... Time to complete this is about 90 minutes.
Place a 3'- 4' piece of 2x4 on a floor jack, with a towel on top of the 2x4, raise the 2x4 against the rear of the body, drill out the rivets keeping the rear supported, very slowly (a hair at a time)jack the rear of the body upward until the vertical door gaps are as even as possible, shove some sort of temp wedge between the fiberglass and the 2x2 frame work, between the fiberglass and 2x2 brush on a good grade of epoxy type material, remove the wedge and open up the rivet holes to 5/16", install bolts washers and nyloc bolts, tighten and lower the floor jack. As an extra support you can bolt or weld in a 45 degree angle from the forward vertical to the 2x2 horizontal.
Admire your work as you have a cold one. ~Alan

This is how it starts ...

Kevin,
I may have overlooked this in you posting, buy I don't recall you mentioning what your door gaps look like. Are they the same on the top and bottom or is the top wider than the bottom? If the gaps are the same, then raising the back will only create a different problem for you.
The reason that I am asking is because I know that I am having the same problem and it is not the rear section sagging. Mine is due to the pan being re-welded 2 degrees off of being level. This caused the exhaust to not have clearance along with the top of the stock type 1 shroud hitting the hinges.
Jim