Raby DTM

my gaps are at the top only. That is why my doors fly open on some turns. You did not overlook it as I never considered that being a fix. I am still not 100% that is the fix that needs to be done, but I will try and see if it at least closes the gaps at the doors. I have been running around town with out a deck lid attached right now and I def'y get some odd stares now.

Besides the engine bay glass area... what other parts of the car are connected to the frame in the back that would also cause the rear end to sag? Is there a suppose to be a spacer that sits under the rear sear area and the frame? I visited the library and I could not read the manuals, they were not that clear to me. I read both cmc and the fiber fab ones and did not get any new info from them.

Cory, don't need to bring a saw-all... I got one them. as Jeff Spicoli once said "My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it"

Gaps at the top only tell me that you have speedster body droop

A couple of things to fix the flying open door issues.
There are small springs on the inside of the door latch mech...they do break and cause the latch to not be secure ...pull the door panel off for a look see.
Door jamb striker also make have worked inward towards the cockpit....try adjusting by marking the current location with masking tape and move them outward a hair by loosening the four screws.( Try ushing the door closed slowly, you should hear two distinct "clicks" as it closes against the body...this is the first and second position of the door latch mech.)
The inner wheel wells attached to the 2x2 steel are the only rear body support.
No under seat bracing .

i read the post on speedster owners, and here about the classic cmc rear sag. I have the same problem, funny the passenger side is very close, and it's the drivers side that is the problem. A bit of history, the car only had 1700mi since built, and it's built very well, everything else on the car is a 11 out of 10, so after reading the post about the cmc rear sag i went out and took off both wheels, put it on stands, jacks on the rear with a towel, and removed both side rivets (which were actually really tight and not moving at all) as i played for about an hour expirementing with the jacks on the back, if i jacked the pass up at all from where it was originally i'd have the pass door actually get stuck, and i can see on the frame where the fiberglass vertical pannels were originally positioned (from the undercoating sprayed on the car). I can almost say 100% that the rear was not sagging, and judging by the build quality of the rest of the car, i'm almost certain the car did not have this poor door allignment on the drivers door when the car was "new". Both doors are alligned perfectly along the botton and front, and i mean perfect. The ONLY issue i have is with the drivers door, it's actually lower than the rear section, and the gap at the bottom is perfect, and gets wider as you look up the door, which tells me it's almost like the body (but only rear upright) has to be pivoted with out effecting the rear. So after about an hour of studying the situation with the rivets all out on both sides, i decided to button everything up with the same position it was before i touched it. So i got a 1" by about 1/4" peice of allum, that i "sandwhiched" between the fiberglass upright and the frame rail. Drilled thru the allum, glass, and rail, washers, carriage bolts thru the entire thing, and i put 8 on each side, from the original 5 rivets. My result is that i'm right back where i started, but i can say the car is extreemly rigid, and i've definetly made the rear section much stronger, but my door gaps are the same!!! so half a days work and basically i got the same problem, but at least i have a solid stiff car now!!!! My tail pipes are perfect, so i can tell the rear is'nt sagging, plus i measured from the floor (absoultly level) to the corners, frame rail, everything and everything i've measured was within aircraft tollerances!!! But the damm drivers door still are out at the top only. I alligned the doors to the front and the bottom perfectly, just worrying about the rear allignment on a otherwise perfect car. And i can say i'm really getting pissed off (pardon my french) with it. Not is it just a little out, but alot, and it's a real eyesore, any ideas????????

martin

I thought that I found a gates tube that had a ESS bend in it so it would skirt under the hinges, but not so lucky. So I think that I am going to take the oil cooler out of the shroud and run the lines to a remote cooler with a fan (like Cory did) and fasten it between the engine bay and the back seat. There is a lot of "Dead" space back there. That way I can have the fan on a thermostat and I do not have to worry about a fan outlet out of the DTM. I can just capped the air hose outlet and not have to worry about the deck lid not fitting. My only question now... what is the best/economical cooler to buy. How many "rows" will be enough? Should I buy an off-the-shelf cooler, or search for an old transmission cooler from the junk yard and add a pusher/puller fan on it?

sorry for the hijack guys, i'll start a new topic, strike my reply from here, i can't edit it!!!

martin

Kevin, here's Jake's thought on the remote cooler to get in conjunction with my 104.5x71 T-IV setup:
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Cory,
Those huge cast iron cylinders are creating these issues - no doubt.

The Setrab coolers are expensive, but super effective. A setrab cooler 1/2 the size of the cooler you have will do a better job of oil temperature control..

Also, your engine is large, the size of the breather box that you use also needs to be large. The bugpack or comparable units do not have the volume needed for a large bored engine, most of the time they are ineffective for even a big bore TI. These units typically act as nothing more than a "crankcase extension" and as soon as their volume is filled they are worthless.
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So, while I'm temporarily committed to my present arrangement, I will be installing a different breather box. No problems with any of it.
Is it wise to DX the bus cooler? I dunno. Maybe you could squash a steel tube like Joe did, just to have it there. I kept that, kept its lines and then ran my new ones out of the sandwich plate over the filter.
I haven't hit more than 200-205 since then.

I was in the middle of a very detailed reply about this on my forum when I lost power and the whole shop shut down... I'll repost it on Monday.

I have a new version of the DTM for the Type 4 engine, I call it DTM V 2.0 as it does not have the oil cooler cavity or the charge hose that can cause issues with ***SOME*** speedsters, as you guys have chatted about here.

FYI- I have been creating some of the V1 DTMs with a stainless hose similar to what Joe has... Ours is a preformed solid tube that is CNC bent. I do not have this out in retail just yet, but it is available on full engines.

Jake, there's a whole bunch of us waiting to see what that thing looks like.
Can I retro-fit the tube?

Also; Danny P had good things to say about you last week. Good customer service on your part with the pushrods.

Cory,
I have about 18 different developments in the works right now, but with the addition of a full time Engineer here this coming week they should all be concluded very quickly (it's just too much for me to do alone and things are growing like mad!)

Danny bought his engine from me 5 years ago and has been an excellent customer and representative of what my engine program has to offer. The least I could do was support him when he had the pushrod issues.

What we do isn't cheap, but when one considers the value of the purchase (years of service and support) and the developmental work behind each engine the purchase just makes sense.

BTW- I responded to the original poster's question on my forums just a few minutes ago, go check it out.

Sweet. Thanks.

Looky here; they have some nice goodies to add to your systems.
Flexible tubing--nice
http://vertexnow.com/Verocious-Motorsports/Flexible