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This is a good quesion for George, his last car had a rack and the new one to my understanding will use a VW Golf rack.

I supported my column at both ends and used a superbeetle double jointed link in preperation for a rack, when I put mine together. I am still using a box for now.

I've been waiting to see what George's looks like.
As Dale said, Henry says the R&P steering on George's car is excellent, but he also said that about half the parts had to be modified or made from scratch to fit.

BTW Dale, that is how George ended up with the larger trunk. I looked at my car and there is a big steering box right where the trunk mod needs to go! Let us know if you can make it work on your car, maybe by notching the mod on one side?
I am installing, or attempting to install the Intermeccanica "spare tire sized trunk" on my car. I do not have rack and pinion steering but wish I did. Henry said it was retro fitable but I did not want to get into that mod at this time. I will need to open the trunk liner a bit for the steering box to fit through and will make some type of cover to put over the steering box incursion. Since I am not doing this for full sized spare tire fitment I don't mind this. I should be able to use a 911 collapsed spare because I have the 911 bolt pattern on my car. I am using the trunk expansion so I have enough luggage space to take my wife on tours. Her LUGGAGE will be riding in the trunk.
Dale: If you have a 911 bolt pattern already, then try to find a full-size, rear wheel drive Cadillac "Space Saver" spare - they have the same identical bolt pattern as your 911 rims, and they can be found easily in 16" and a little less frequently in 15" rims. They're a little thinner than a stock VW rim/tire combo and fit right into a CMC trunk without compartment mods (other than the hold-down mount) so I would expect them to fit an IM as well. HOWEVER! Once installed, there's ver little room for much else!!

Let me know if you want to see it installed and I'll post some shots.

Gordon
Since I haven't purchased a car yet and do not have axis to looking under the body, I was wondering in there are any inherent problems associated with putting rack and pinion steering on a replica. For example would the steering column have to be split via a couple of U-joints to properly line up with the rack? Also is there an easy way of securing the column at the rack or would it line up like a column going into the VW steering box? Thank you for you help, as previously mentioned I am in the planning stages now and without the car here, my imagination runs a little off tangent. One more thing, are there any web sites that show pictures of how to install, or an installed rack? Thank you again!
Darryll, The rack is mounted in the center of the body on mounts welded to the front of the IM frame. The steering colum is split with two U-joints and the left and right tie rods must be shortend. The pictures are taken from different sides of the car so you may have some visual confusion, I did and I took the pics. The steering with the R&P is wonderful! I wouldnt do a new car without it.

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  • Mounted rack
Dale, thanks for your help, I now have a better mental picture of what it looks like under the front of the car. I see that it is not as bad as I invisioned. As previously mentioned I don't have the car yet and my mind wonder all over the place in trying to think how am I going to this and that. Thanks again for your help, this is a terrific site for anyone contemplating building a speedster. Do you know of any other sites like Chris Suttons? I have allready printed nearly the entire site including pictures, I can't read my computer in the bathroom.
My seat of the pants feeling, hand and eye perception is that it has a more direct feeling. There is no vaigeness, no "softness" or waiting for the wheels to catch-up to the steering wheel when you turn. There is a more solid feeling in sweepers. You (I) feel more connected to the road/car as it manuvers down the road.

I'm interested in r+P steering to get rid of that short tierod.
The Speedsters don't use lots of travel, but...

When the front suspension goes through it's travel, the wheels bump steer as the dimension (length) changes between the steering box arm pick up point and the spindle arm pick up point. The short side bump steers drastically compared to the long tierod side.

With the r+p set up you end up with equal length tie rods. You have a lot better shot at getting that bump steer minimized and at least equal.
You do this by optimizing the pick up point heights. (moving the rack position up or down to accomodate the spindle arms, or spacing the spindle end of the tie rod up or down.)

Greg B
CIP1 has a nice looking bracket assembly that bolts on to the front beam and allows a R&P to be bolted in...

store.cip1.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=cali&Category_Code=08-06-01

Scroll down to the bottom.

But their R&P units have the center shaft. There are some out there that have the shaft off the left which should allow you to use your existing steering column with no U joints. That looks like it would be little more than a bolt in upgrade using the bracket above. (looks like...I'm sure there will be more to it)

Brian
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