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I have another thought on a solution to the rain hat. First I assume the dripping water gets into the carbs by way of the filter element. I have the cone type on mine. I sprayed the filter element with 303 HT FABRIC GUARD. It is used primarily to stop rain from getting through things like tents,awnings, etc. I have not had any trouble with mine. However I don't go out in a rain storm very often. I have been caught returning home several times.
I checked with the company before I tried it. They said it works well on textile fabrics and paper but not foam. They also stated it would not interfere with the breathability of the filter.
Since my filter is called gauze I thought it might work. After I treated one I poured water over it and it did not penetrate the filter. Anothr advantage to this solution is it prevents water from being sucked into the carbs while driving.
I'm not sure if this is something you would be interested in but you might check it out.
Three pictures for you -- one with a rain hat on my grape, one with a high-tech answer to keeping rain out while parked, and the third with the most stylish carb-covering rain hat ever devised.
None is as smart as the plastic ones Lane's got, as quick-thinking as Kelly's or as neat as Jack's carbon fiber.

Does anybody else have the fiberglass bottom side of heir decklid cut away? Seems like Joe Soltis did a mod to his decklid to allow it to clear the Raby DTM, but I'm not nearly as good with fiberglass as he is, and I have no hinges anymore.
I would like to know what others who chopped that section out have done to keep their alternators or generators dry while parked and/or while driving.

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Further note about the physics and chemistry. The water gets to the carbs two ways, as I see it. First, just right down the back of the car, and in through the seam at the deck lid, as this seam is not sealed. Drops right on the filter tops, drips down the filter element, collects on the filter bottom, oozes around that plate, and down the vent hole for the float, and into the gas supply and/or right down the air intake for the idle jets, which are below this deck surface. Undoubtedly the water carries dirt with it, and just the smallest particle is going to foul up those Weber idle jets. Also, the water will collect in the deck lid substructure if you do not drill drainage holes at the corners. When you lift the deck lid you dump this water right on the carbs, and so you have it. Fixes involve the rain hats, which keep the water that drops in by any means off the filter element and the carb top. The idea of spraying silicone or other hydrophobic material on the filter element is good, and this will keep the water beaded up at the outer surface, and allow it to run down and off on the outside, vs. sioak through. The spray changes the surface tension of the support material (filter media) and so prevents it from wetting the basic material. Seems to me the oil generally used to trap dirt in these elements would do the same thing, but maybe not. The spray coating will not impede the flow of air, as there will still be passages between the fibers that make up the filter. Just the fibers are now made water repellant. Water could still catch in the bottom mounting plate of the filter element, and wick under it, and find its way to the carb vent or air jets. Here, the use of grease at the plate and filter element bottom will help plenty, I think. Even though the filter element bottom is rubberized. Jet Doctors provide a way to raise up the altitude of the air inlet for the idle jets above the filter holder deck. That will keep water borne dirt from getting in that way.

that is what I think I know about this.

One other thing is that it is possible to get enough water on the inside of the carb to go down the throat and if an intake valve is open, fill up the combustion cahmber, or at least put enough in there that the cylinder will hydrolock when you try to start it. This is fixed by removing the spark plug and turning the engine over a bit to push the water out. You can ask me how I know this.

As to shipping water into the carb while driving, I do not think this is a risk. It might happen, but it will never be enough to matter as there is so much air moving through, things will keep right on going. You'd need a hose to supply enough water to let things stop, seems to me. And a little water in the combustion process is seen as a good thing by some: it tends to steam clean the surfaces in there, or so I am told.
We always have them in stock. Plain or with the Spyder logo ont he side. They are made thin enough to leave the cast carb top in place, and the underside (of my finished pieces) are lined in a VHT flameproof paint.
I ship them out blank so they will work on single or dual stud carbs (EMPI, Weber, Delorto), with or without breather bung, and they must be trimmed to clear some linkages as well. The most trimming is done around CB's hexbar linkage. Something like CSP's linkage requires no trimming...
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