Raising the front end

It looks like your adjust-a-drop bolt (lower bolt with allen socket) is backed all the way out (lowers ride height). Simple - raise the front end to get tires off the ground, use jacks for safety to support the car.

Loosen the nut on the bottom of adjustor bolt, then using the proper size allen wrench, turn the bolt clockwise (to raise the ride height) and then re-tighten the nut. Put car back on the ground and drive it for a short distance to settle the suspension.

This will be a trial & error process until you get the car to your desired ride height. Maybe start with adjusting that bolt to its midway position to see if thats close to the ride height you want.

Hope this helps! 

After taking a second look at your picture, it looks like there's a bar above the adjust-a-lift that may limit/block the travel of the adjustment. Not sure what that bar is, but thats probably why the adjustment is set the way is is (low ride).

SOCer known as Dr. Clock (Alan Merklin) has extensive experience with these and may have more insight.

The exact instructions for this fix is on page 497 of the VS Owners manual. Here's the link:

https://www.speedsterowners.com...dsters-owners-manual

The angle iron is part of  brace for the fiberglass front end - open hood and you'll see 2 bolt heads couple inches in front of the gas tank,  I'd take a angle grinder and knotch it out where the bolt hits.  VS generally only have 1 adjuster so that limits total adjustment.  Did it also come with dropped front spindles?  They lower front end 2 1/2".

Regretfully the VS Owners manual ends at a skimpy 10 pages.

Before we get crazy and start cutting stuff...

Have we made sure that you have all of the necessary spring plates in the front beam? When I purchased my car from crazy uncle Al I found my car rode like a covered wagon. I messed wil all manner of fiddling with those adjusters. In the end I found two things: my shocks were too long and they were bottoming out and that I was missing all of the 'little' spring plates out of each tube  (the half width ones). Once I replaced the missing spring plates the ride height I gained a bunch of ride hight back. The new shortened shocks fixed the limited travel.

What's the history of your car? Any reason to think someone pulled those plates before you owned it? I'll second the spindle question. Are you running drop spindles?

Ted

Thanks Greg,

I thought my printer ran out of paper.

Art

Thanks all - really appreciate the advice.

I emailed the pics to VS to see if they can help. I am also concerned about cutting anything.

The car is a 2006 turnkey build. It runs and drives beautifully. I am confident it has not been modified in any way (I purchased it with 600 miles on it 8 years ago). It is a wide 5 disk brake car, but I have no idea if the spindles are lowered. The brake upgrade and the oil cooler appear to be the only upgrades ordered when the car was initially built. Very standard fare otherwise. 

One last thing - the link to the manual does work for me (it is protected). Is there another way to get it?

Thanks again -

Scott S

Yeah - become a "Contributing member" and you'll gain instant access to it.

I wonder if perhaps the top allen bolt has backed out (of the spring holder detent) and let the spring pack run free?  Seems if top allen bolt was cranked in further it would clear the front support brace.  There isn't a whole lot of adjustment with a single adjuster.  

Scott- If the car has stock spindles, the speedo cable will enter the left (driver's side) spindle approx half way between the upper and lower ball joints. If it's noticeably closer to the upper ball joint and it looks like someone welded 1/2" plate in there, then they are dropped spindles. You'll have to either raise the car or take off the wheel to be able to see the back side of the steering knuckle. Or, take a pic and show us (and maybe show us a few pics of the car while you're at it). Al