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I actually did this work on Dad's Monte Carlo this weekend, but I thought I would share it in the Tech General just in case someone else can make use of my "Mad Monkey Garage Skillz!"

You can form plastic with heat. You can also re-form damage plastic with heat. The nature of the part is that it WANTS to go back to it's original manufactured shape. This is true for both the flexible plastic that I'm working with in these pictures and the hard plastics that you find in the interior of cars. Don't throw it away - try to fix it!

Step One:

1. Clean most of dirt off. Doesn't have to be perfect, just don't
want to force dirt into the plastic.
2. Heat the part with a heatgun. Don't melt it, but get it too hot
to touch with your hands. You NEED a heatgun, a hair dryer will
not get hot enough.
3. Use flat or round items to form the plastic back to it's original
shape. Wood, metal or hard plastics all work well for this.
4. When the original shape is back, hold it in that position and put
a wet cloth on it. The water "quenches" it and makes the
hot plastic stop moving in the position that it is currently in.
5. Repeat if needed, sometimes you have to do this a couple of times.

If it's bent - don't give up and spend a bunch of money for a replacment! Try this! If it works - YEAH! If not, what the heck, it was bent anyway - right? You can save ALOT of dough by repairing these types of parts instead of replacing them.

angela
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I actually did this work on Dad's Monte Carlo this weekend, but I thought I would share it in the Tech General just in case someone else can make use of my "Mad Monkey Garage Skillz!"

You can form plastic with heat. You can also re-form damage plastic with heat. The nature of the part is that it WANTS to go back to it's original manufactured shape. This is true for both the flexible plastic that I'm working with in these pictures and the hard plastics that you find in the interior of cars. Don't throw it away - try to fix it!

Step One:

1. Clean most of dirt off. Doesn't have to be perfect, just don't
want to force dirt into the plastic.
2. Heat the part with a heatgun. Don't melt it, but get it too hot
to touch with your hands. You NEED a heatgun, a hair dryer will
not get hot enough.
3. Use flat or round items to form the plastic back to it's original
shape. Wood, metal or hard plastics all work well for this.
4. When the original shape is back, hold it in that position and put
a wet cloth on it. The water "quenches" it and makes the
hot plastic stop moving in the position that it is currently in.
5. Repeat if needed, sometimes you have to do this a couple of times.

If it's bent - don't give up and spend a bunch of money for a replacment! Try this! If it works - YEAH! If not, what the heck, it was bent anyway - right? You can save ALOT of dough by repairing these types of parts instead of replacing them.

angela

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  • Monte 12 APR 09 009
  • Monte 12 APR 09 010
Welcome to the salvaging side of town . I learned to do that kinda stuff with a propane torch. I have even used scrap peaces to weld up broken plastic parts like that and then sand them out slick . Get you a paint can of playdough to ues on the inside of things like that to help them keep their shape. and you can just about repair anything..

Is that one of the under dash covers?
When I was driving back from the rolex race last January, I stopped for fuel and, at the truck stop in Florida I ran over a 1/4" thick ,etal plate that covered a set of filler necks in the ground. It flipped up and cut into my plastic running board trim (!@#$%^&*!!!)

When I got home I used the same technique as you did, Angela, but I had a cut to deal with, too. The plastic looked pretty "normal", like ABS or PVC or something, so I got out my soldering gun and, after getting the pieces more-or-less back into position with the heat gun I "welded" them back together with the solder gun. I went deep between the two pieces to join them and after massaging the surface with the gun tip to smooth things out it looks like it will hold forever. It'll never look "perfect" because it has a scar from the cut, but at least it'll hold together no matter what.

I've also used a heat gun to massage the shape of the lower, forward corners of my side windows to make them fit the shape of the windshield corner posts better.

Amazing what a little (or a lot, in this case) of heat will do.

gn
That's basically plastic welding. We went through a stage years ago where we were rebuilding wrecked crotch rockets and selling them. Used to send the plastics to a fellow and he would weld them. It's not a cheap tool (plastic welder) but this guy was making a living out of it!

However, you have proved, Gordon, that creativity and necessity are far more valuable than expensive tools! If you want the remaining scar to look perfect, there is a rather expensive, but very good quality two-part filler that exactly mimics the flexible bumper material. It's about $40 for ten ounces. When you put it on and it finishes drying, it remains flexible and can be sanded, then primed and paint. Stinks something ferocious. We used a bit of it on the Monte's nose where we shaved the emblem and had a low spot that wasn't willing to STAY away.

Oh and yeah, Bruce, the SEM trim paint is something we keep at the shop all the time. Just right for alot of things (not just trim - LOL!).

angela
Years ago I had a car stereo amp that would overheat, I was running a couple of subs at low impedance that it was supposedly rated for. It kept overheating and shutting off, it was in dead air in the rear hatch in a Corrado.

So I bent by hand a plexi box around the amp, made a tunnel so to speak. Put two 12v computer fans on one end and voila, no more overheating with the fan cooling. The clear plexi allowed the amp to be seen, but still run cool. I did it with a table edge, a straightedge, some clamps and a heatgun. Plus lots of patience.
Working plexi is not all that difficult. I've made two custom windshields for my bikes. I avoided compound curves only because I wasn't interested in making any tooling, but I am convinced that nearly any curve could be formed from plexi. I used flat 1/4 inch stock and my wife's hair drier - which did a fine job and still worked (lucky me!) when I returned it to her.

For other plastics, I would certainly invest in a commercial heat gun.
Dave:

Plexi windshields are super easy to make, depending on the size needed. They were a weak point on our snowmobiles years ago because they got brittle when very cold and they broke when tree limbs hit them. The answer was to go to double-thickness plexi for the same windshield, but all of them were compound curves. We made up a small buck from Beaverboard (same stuff as peg board backing) screwed to pine boards and then clamped the flat windshield material onto the buck such that when it was generally heated it would simply fall onto the shape of the buck from gravity. Took the whole shebang and put it into Mom's kitchen oven and slowly increased the heat until it started to bend and then waited until it had formed onto the buck. Left it for another ten minutes, just to be sure, then removed everything and let it cool for an hour or so before removing it from the buck. They always held the shape of the buck and the process worked like a charm. No visual distortion was introduced, either.

Mom is 89 years old now and STILL doesn't know we used her oven for this.....

gn
Gordon - I still have a 19 foot low profile ski boat - a Colorado River boat as they are known locally - blue metalflake, big outboard, no windshield. But windburn got old. In 1980 I built an upside down buck over the boat and designed a full wraparound windshield, like the old GM windshields. Had a local plastic manufacturer heat the 1/4 inch dark blue plexi and drop it into the buck. I did everything else. Rubber isolated ALL the mounting points - very important! Thirty years later it still works and looks good.
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