I am trying to install a third brake light under the deck grill. However, I cannot seem to get a good angle at the screws holding the grill in place. I originally was just going to reach inside the duct on the underside and place the 3M taped back LED strip, but my forearm gets suck before I reach the destination. Anyone have a trick to get to the screws holding the grill down?
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Angle screw driver?
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I used a very, very long thin shafted screwdriver to remove mine. I was able to get the tip of the screwdriver onto the screw and lay the screwdriver shaft on the grill on the opposite side. Worked very well and I didn't have to manipulate the flexible one.
Wolfgang, I tried an angled screw driver like the one you posted. Not enough room to get it in there. There is only 3/4 of inch of space between the screw head the the first rail. It seems to me they should of assembled it with a bolt head so you could get an open ended wrench on it.
Robert
Did you go from inside the duct? How hard was it to get it back in later?
@Bobby D posted:Robert
Did you go from inside the duct? How hard was it to get it back in later?
I came in from the top. To put it back in I used a small piece of blue painter's tape to help hold the screw to the tip of the screwdriver. The screws on mine are in between the slats running long ways.
I couldn’t find the screwdriver I usually use but this is the same method. The other sd is even longer
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Robert
Yours sounds like the screw are the top and bottom. Mine are on the outer sides.
I have a Snap-on 1/4" and 5/16" ratcheting 6-point box wrench. Any 1/4" hex bit fits, such as those kits for drills. Conceivably you could use something like that, I doubt it's any bigger than 1/2".
On my first Spyder I used 1/4" head sheet metal screws to hold the grilles in, speed clips on the body.
Thin long screwdriver laying down along the top of the grill...………..
On my car the screws are hex headed and we cut the end of a small hex key to install. You might make that change if there is an issue where is Alan when you need him.
Bobby, mine were on the sides......
Mine to come to think of it.
Ray, you mean your screws are Allen heads, or internal hex.
Sorry your right Danny, Allen head and I needed to cut an allen head wrench shorter to get at them but it was easily done. I thought it was a good idea.
Call for the 6-8 year old grand-kids! Get them hooked while they are young.
On my Speedster I also have hex head screws Holding the grill down and it's easy to turn them using a small wrench for hex head screws. Like a screwdriver with a hex screw on the end). The way I easily put these screws in and out is to grip them with a pair of needle nose pliers (on the threaded part) while I turn them with the wrench. Super easy and eliminates frustration I had as a newbie back in the day. Smart move on your part to install brake lights under the grill---we need all the safety improvements we can add to these cars!
I got it off. I looked in the duct and saw the nuts on the screw ends. I was able to use a deep socket with a long extension.
Question on the wiring. I have the tear drop rear lights. There are two bulbs, on for the turn signal and one for the brake. If I tap into the brake light line, will the new third brake light always be on when the headlights are on? What is the best way to wire it so it only acts as a brake light?
You wire the 3rd brake wire onto either brake wire on the taillight, the 3rd brake light will only come on when the brake pedal is depressed.
And then get an intelligent flasher unit for the third eye from Kahtec.com to get their attention.
All done. Thanks guys