rear disc choices

In searching the rear disc topics I find the following suppliers for a bolt on conversion kit using undrilled rotors
CB Performance
SoCal
CIP1
EMPI does not seem to have undrilled rotors?
Anyone else, or anything else that does not break the bank.

This is a new build on a CMC flared fender car, and as I am in Thailand it is so much easier and cheaper to import the entire works in a single lot shipment. I therefore perfer to buy it all now and ship via sea with the kit.

Wheel choices to fit the brakes will be very limited here if not impossible. I have a second topic asking about the 8 inch wheels to fit these brakes. Undrilled rotors is to keep the wheel choice open.

Thanks
Robert

Currently leaning toward the CB Performance heavy duty kit.
These are not available in undrilled hubs so I need to pick a bolt pattern, or remake the hub here to suit wheels

Which leads me to my earlier question of what wheel offset for a flared CMC body?
I understand that 17's will fit using 40/45 series tyres and the CMC needs 7 and 8 inch rims.

Sage advise would be appreciated

On a 8x15 in rim I used a 4 in offset (rear) 7in with 3in offset (Front)

Hi Robert: I have an EMPI rear kit and like all of the available kits it increases the rear track by about

thanks for the heads up on the wheels and I may need to hold off on buying these for now. Backspacing numbers quoted have been 3, 4, and 5 inches?

Brake caliper comments are interesting, and I have noticed that the mainstream manufacturers I find on line are silent about the model of caliper used, and I cannot tell by looking at the pic.

Who makes a decent rear kit c/w handbrake, that will not break the bank?
Will be running Holden (Australian GM) on the front as I intend to use an A-arm front end. Bolt circle therefore should be 5 x 4.75 Chev.

Robert, Take a look at this:---http://www.ricola.co.uk/
Nice work and I'm sure you can source the parts easier. Using the stock set up will allow you
to find parts in the future also.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=113186

Robert since you are using a different caliper on the front than most of us, you are going to have to sort it out for yourself. The only tips I can give you are that: When you increase the stopping power of the front you should increase the stopping power at the back or else your stops will take longer since the back is doing proportionately less. Also that these cars have more weight in the back than most cars so their rear brakes can have a much bigger effect.

I don

Bruce

Was going to run a Wilwood balance valve anyway to sort it all out and I just happen to have one left over from an earlier project. Also have a 2 psi check valve but am not sold that this is necessary.

M/C choice is a bit of a puzzle as of yet, and as you say I will have to sort it out myself.

I see your point on the rear calipers.
What is a Varga caliper I see EMPI advertising?

What did you use for a caliper bracket with the Audi A-4 caliper? This might be the way to go and just buy each bit individually.

Thanks for all the help
Robert

Be sure that the VW Master cylinder is big enough to fully acuate all calipers, a VW bus MC may be the better way to go.

use 944 stuff, readily available worldwide. You can use the 4 piston turbo caliper up front if you really want to stop. Just one of the "kits" or d.i.y.---http://www.franklinsvwwerks.com/bug-disks.htm

More good 944/swap info--http://www.veewrx.com/VWRX-brakes-suspension/VWRX-brakes-suspension.htm

Checked into the whole 944 thing. There are modifications that have to be done to the front rotors for bearings and caliper clearance. Not a big deal and there is a company or two out there that will do it for you.

The rears are bolt on. The whole swing arm from the 944 bolts right on to the bug pan. Only the turbo version cars have the alum. arms. If you use a turbo set up then you have to use the entire arm as the caliper bracket is made into the arm. If you get the steel arm setup the bracket is bolt on and you do not have to swap out the whole arm.

I found a website sometime back that had all the info. I will try to find it.

With the added space of your widebody I think you could plop on the 944 swing arms as an assembly. Worth checking into. You get the stronger brakes, aluminum construction, emergency brake, additional track width (instead of filling the w.well with all rim and the ability to access parts anywhere.
Looky here--http://www.cairns.net.au/~vwturbo/Porsche%20Brakes.htm

Robert: I have a Willwood proportioning valve and it works fine. If you get rear calipers about the same size as the fronts or bigger then you can put it on the rear circuit bleeding of pressure to the rear until the fronts lock up first (on a dry day going down hill, worst case weight transfer).

I also have the 2 psi valve. The idea here is that when the calipers are above the master cylinder the fluid wants to drain down back to the master cylinder and retracts the pistons in the calipers. My calipers are only a few inches above the m/c so it can only generate about a

Other Bruce, I'm not doing any modifications. I like the look of wide 5 drums. Call me shallow
but I'll take the look over function in this case. I don't think I'll ever be (you never know) in
the sort of position that I would need the stopping force of the 4 pot turbo calipers. If I was starting from new I would opt for them with the aluminum trailing arms and proportion
them accordingly. I had great aftermarket brakes in my 1800 lb TVR that would stop so quickly my brain would hurt. Did I need to, no. But it was fun.

I too have been looking into the 944 rear brake set up and located some non-turbo ones using single piston calipers and steel arms in the States.
This is a bolt on and maintains the stock track width. Replacement parts are readily available.

The 944 turbo has aluminium arms in two different widths and will increase track width but I have flared fenders so no problem. Bonous is that they come with trick looking 4 piston calipers. Locating a set will be a bit more of a issue. If anyone has a line on a set please let me know.

Other problem is B/C for the wheels, I have GM (Holden) 5 x 4.75 on the fronts and it would be nice to match them up. I do not know if either Porsche of GM can be drilled?

I appreciate all the help and keep the suggestions coming.

Robert

I've been following this rear disc post with interest as the retro fitting you are discussing are costly. I'm curious as to the "why" of going for the 944 expense? I have only front disc brakes on the VS flared speedster and perform great without any fade.
A speedster with the aftermarket four wheel VW disc brakes are inexpensive, bolt right and bring a speedster to a stop like catching "the third wire."

My Ghia has 944 rear brakes and trailing arms. I could have went with front and rear but with non-turbo front brakes you cant use dropped spindles.

I bought EVERYTHING for less than $200.

I am using 944 stuff because I have some expensive 911 wheels that I wanted to use.

All the problems have been worked out (fitting)and I recomend everyone check this out as an option.

The best place for info is www.vdubengineering.com The owner Lanner is very nice and helpful. Buy his stuff!!!!!


Look here for all the info you need
www.germanlook.com

This is a very easy swap. Everything bolts on. The only fab that you have to do for the rear is grind flat the park brake cable ( a 5 sec. job)

Bryan

Why:
Aluminium trailing arms are stronger, lighter, and wider than VW
Steel trailing arms are internally braced and stronger than VW.
Bush is aluminium - no big deal if you use urethane in the VW
Rotor is a seperate hat rather than roto-hub
Nothng so cool as a peek-a-boo red 4 piston caliper with Porsche written on it
Overall cool factor
Bench racing rights
Cost is not really all that much more
Replacement pads and rotors are easy
Integral inside the hub parking brake is a standard VW shoe
Simple bolt on mod


If it is worth doing, it is worth overdoing

Robert