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Rear Drum removal proplem

FM Former Member
I am attempting to replace the brake shoes on the rear, but the driver side (36mm) nut won't break loose. I got the passenger side off without any trouble or having to use liquid wrench. I can't say the same for the drivers' side. I am using a 3 foot break-off socket bar with a 36mm short stem socket and I can't get the nut to budge. I have used nearly a half a can of liquid wrench and let it sit for hours, but still will not budge. I am at my wits end now. Any suggestions?... besides beating it into submission? Should I consider heating it then using the socket and break-off bar? I have the car in gear and the e-brake on and the only movement that I am getting is axel spin.
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FM Former Member
I am attempting to replace the brake shoes on the rear, but the driver side (36mm) nut won't break loose. I got the passenger side off without any trouble or having to use liquid wrench. I can't say the same for the drivers' side. I am using a 3 foot break-off socket bar with a 36mm short stem socket and I can't get the nut to budge. I have used nearly a half a can of liquid wrench and let it sit for hours, but still will not budge. I am at my wits end now. Any suggestions?... besides beating it into submission? Should I consider heating it then using the socket and break-off bar? I have the car in gear and the e-brake on and the only movement that I am getting is axel spin.
FM Former Member
Get yourself a "torque buddy" by Latest Rage. It's about $50 to $60 and it also works for removing and installing flywheels. It's a very ingenious contraption that multiplies the torque applied approximately 9 times. I've seen it in action as our fellow member Jjr used it to remove the frozen nuts in his dune buggy. Check this link:

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC%2DC10%2D7036
FM Former Member
If you're getting movement from the axle, use a pipe wrench and a piece of pipe to brace the nut against the ground, and use the axle as a mechanical advantage. Try also using a punch on all six surfaces of the nut. A three-pound hammer ought to free it up after two hits to each surface.
Other than that, an air-driven impact socket ought to do the trick.
FM Former Member
Heat and hammering the flats did not work. It seems that I could not heat the nut by itself, since the nut has gaps in it to accept the cotter pin. So it seems as though the shaft was expanding as well. Or at least that is the only reason that I can think of why it will not come loose.

That torque buddy would certainly do the trick, but I need to get the nut off today. With the price of that, I guess I should take it to a service center... they only charge $50 an axel for drum brake repair.
FM Former Member
Yes, I did know that the nut comes off Lefty Loosey... I wish my brain was working as well this morning as it did much later in the afternoon. I went to Home Depot, bought a $195 Rigid 450lb electric impact torque wrench... brought it home... unpacked it, plugged her in and in 1 minute had the nut off. Two minutes later the wrench is wrapped back up in the original packaging and I am on my way back up to the Depot to make a return. From the time of purchase to the time of return... 35 minutes. I wasted a full day beating the hell out of this nut! Lesson learned.
Alan MerklinAlan MerklinDrclock - Elkins, West Virginia Supporting Member
Here's the fix to get it loose, with the car in gear and the E'brake yanked tight, wedge the leading edge of the tire with as much car weight on it as possible, with the breaker bar and a 3-4'foot pipe over it , bear down on it while a helper hits the side of the 36mm socket solidly with a sledge hammer a few times, this works well as we did this years ago to break loose tractor trailer lug nuts...just be prepared that the nut will turn, you will be caught up by gravity aka drop suddenly to the shop floor:)
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