What have others done to get more support on the rear loop? I have done the butt sag and it is super tight. However, the rear frame has a bit of movement still in it. I have seen the support for running a flat bar of steel from roll bar post behind door post to bolt at the end of the line of new fasteners to shore up the FB to 2x2 steel frame.
What other options exist while engine is out? Anyone use a screw type adjustment type set-up. Looking for pics and best instructions I can find.
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I just discovered the same with my motor out.
One more thing added to the list.
Another good reason to never remove the engine - you find all sorts of others things for the "To-Do" list.
I've installed the cross-brace from the pillar behind the door latch to as far out on the horseshoe part of the rear frame as I could get it without getting in the way. I did not go the Heim joint/adjustable method - just found a good piece of 1" square 1/8" wall tubing and welded that puppy in - OK, so I don't trust my welds and had Chris do it. Those things aren't going anywhere.
Gordon--any Pics sitting around to show the work--share please
I used these for reference when Schu and I used when we did mine years ago. Someone used threaded rod with turn buckle adjuster.
Sorry, guys. I have a lot of photos of weird stuff on the car, but not of those - It's pretty obvious where they should go when you get in there, and you'll be welding to 2" square tubing on both ends, so just angle the meds of the brace and weld that puppy in there.
Do some nice, aesthetically pleasing, weave-type welds - not like the bird-poop-looking welds I do.
I did a SEARCH here and came up with photos of someone using the fancy heim joints.
https://www.speedsterowners.com...mc-rear-sag------not
I used these for reference when Schu and I used when we did mine years ago. Someone used threaded rod with turn buckle adjuster.
Working on a beer belly but NO butt sag!
Working on a beer belly but NO butt sag!
