Rear Inspection Plate

On a regular Beetle pan there is an inspection cover under the rear seat. On a Speedster where would one find that plate if it is even still there? When the pan is shortened is the plate in that part that is removed?

I am still having occasional shifting issues and wanted to think about replacing the shift bushing in the tunnel. Instructions I have read all mention this plate.

Thanks,
Tony

Tony
It is just under the rear seat area about an inch to the rear side of the verticle edge. To access the cover (centered over the tunnel area) cut a 1" x 3.5" area away. You can replace the cut out section or as I do use a piece of aluminum.

Alan, can you please take a picture of it if you have the chance. I also need to change both the Shift Coupler and the Shift Rod Bushing, as right now it is pretty difficult to engage the gears (at least the one you want)

Another question: In order to look for some parts at the local VW dealer, they ask me for the beetle VIN (chassis number) to be sure of the part I ask for. Would it be possible seeing it from there?

Thanks, Ignacio

I'll post a pic this evening ....
the Vin is located on the top of the center tunnel section just forward of the inspection plate.

FYI the third digit in the Vin number is the year

example 11383475 the 3 would be for a 1973

11893856 the 8 would be for a 1968

Alan,
Iwent out and cut the access hole today. I started where you said but wondered why you suggested such a small hatch. Well I cut mine bigger for nad access and found a large steel support tube right under most of my hatch and directly above the shift rod coupler!
I can barely reach the coupler but at least there is some acces. BTW, both coupler and bushing appear new. Looks like the clutch itself is the culprit here. Car now shifts perfectly with the engine off.....start the engine and it will not go into any gear.

Looks like yank the engine time......

Tony

Tony:

If you pull the engine yourself, see if you can find one of these motorcycle/ATV jacks from Sears:

www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00950190000

George Brown passed this along as a tip, and I recently used my son's to pull my engine. Had the engine out in less than 2 hours (had one bolt fight me for a bit, or it would have gone much quicker), fixed the tranny seal, cleaned and sanded the clutch plate, and it only took about 20 minuts to put the engine back in!

Gordon

Anthony, Check the clutch cable before pulling the engine. I experienced hard shifting that got worse as time went by. Thought it might be the coupler, wasn't. Tried to adjust the position of the shift lever at the tunnel mount, wasn't. Cable had streached and would not allow gear engagement with engine running although it would shift very smoothly with engine turned off. Cable adjusted correctly and problem solved.

Jeff,
I id check the cable as my first thought was some stretch. I have zero free play in ther pedal. I can start the car in gear with the clutch in without it driving off but either cannot engage any other gear or meet with serious grinding if I try to.

I have a real VW mechanic friend looking at it tomorrow before we do anything.

Thanks for the advice though, every bit helps.

Tony