Henry installed my kafer bar yesterday. Should tighten up the rear end somewhat.
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excellent pictures!
i fabbed and installed a brace between the frame horns and rear sub-frame to tighten the back end up (door gaps / rear sag issues, but i was surprised how much more solid it felt.
just out of curiosity - did you weld them more than those tacks in this pic:
http://speedsterowners.com/files/view.asp?sf=ROBlack&f=P1050804.JPG
i fabbed and installed a brace between the frame horns and rear sub-frame to tighten the back end up (door gaps / rear sag issues, but i was surprised how much more solid it felt.
just out of curiosity - did you weld them more than those tacks in this pic:
http://speedsterowners.com/files/view.asp?sf=ROBlack&f=P1050804.JPG
Ron, it will be interesting to hear your seat-of-the-pants report on the benefit of this set-up!
The photos show the kafer bar test-fitted into place. I'm also changing my plans and going with a roll bar. The roll bar's four mounting points will also be attached to the frame. When everything is in place the rear end should be seriously stiff.
I wish there was something I could do to stiffen up my rear end, but at this age all I can do is live with the sag :(
Looks like the unit from V-Dub Engineering
Good stuff and well made
Good stuff and well made
Yes, it is.
Ron, she's coming along nicely. You're doing great work keeping it clean as you go, too.
If you really want to improve the traction, install a rear engine support. This keeps the engine from twisting the transaxle horns during acceleration and also helps keep the back end in place. Gene Berg has this traction bar as do other retail vendors and, it can be built by any decent fabricator
Here's a thread from TheSamba showing a photo
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=272483
Here's a thread from TheSamba showing a photo
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=272483
I just bought a Kafer from Vee Dub Parts yesterday,going to put in
new steering box,
adj. spring-plates,
"Chinese Chicken" Nardi-esque steering wheel,
Fuchs wheel caps,
new throttle cable,
oil temp sender,
and fix turn signals!
I have a call into 911 already....
new steering box,
adj. spring-plates,
"Chinese Chicken" Nardi-esque steering wheel,
Fuchs wheel caps,
new throttle cable,
oil temp sender,
and fix turn signals!
I have a call into 911 already....
Larry, thanks for the advice. Cory, Henry's shop is doing the work, not me.
Ron,
What is the function of those bars? Do they help support the engine or stiffen up the flex in the frame horns or . . . ? Is there any triangulation rearwards and/or forwards in some way on two axis or are all the bars on the same plane?
I love the ease of installation there, just want to make sure that I need them/they'll help with what the stock chassis is lacking, you know?
Are you also fitting a supplemental rear ward engine mounting bar, or do you believe that the extra support at the ends of the horns will do the trick?
I like the set-up and would love to duplicate it on the chassis going under the Fiat, Sure would appreciate a bit more info, or possibly a link to where to find some.
Thanks ! !
T
What is the function of those bars? Do they help support the engine or stiffen up the flex in the frame horns or . . . ? Is there any triangulation rearwards and/or forwards in some way on two axis or are all the bars on the same plane?
I love the ease of installation there, just want to make sure that I need them/they'll help with what the stock chassis is lacking, you know?
Are you also fitting a supplemental rear ward engine mounting bar, or do you believe that the extra support at the ends of the horns will do the trick?
I like the set-up and would love to duplicate it on the chassis going under the Fiat, Sure would appreciate a bit more info, or possibly a link to where to find some.
Thanks ! !
T
I found scads...yes scads of info on the Kaffer/Kafer bar/cup!So much you'll puke! Lots on SOC too! Didn't get mine on today,steering box and stuff, will do it Mon.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=115092
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=98203
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=112757
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=115092
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=98203
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=112757
Hopefully, the bar will stiffen up the frame horns and shock towers.
Does the T1 rear engine sup actually attach to the engine like the TIV ??
Always wondered what wheel hop was ...
Always wondered what wheel hop was ...
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Nope!
The rear engine support just kinda sits under the engine and is attached at either side by threaded rods. It's essemtially a length of square stock with the ends cut on a 45 degree angle and two "J" bolts. Oh, and a nifty sticker.
When the engine twists a bit, it contacts the length of bar and stops moving to one degree of another. It works OK, but the mounting system isn't the best and the area where it mounts to is often compromised by rust. To work on a Speedster you would need a solidly built rear sub-frame tied to the pan/frame horns and shock towers or the roll bar/cage for it to be of any use at all.
A much better arrangement would be begin with a sub-frame, drill and tap the rear bosses in the case and use the rear engine mount from the '68/'71 Bus. Rather than the silly threaded rod, I'd use a pair of drop links. Much more solid and adjustable and with the Bus engine hanger, you could pre-load the set-up as well.
Way better than a length of square stock shoved up against your engine and a couple of cheezy 3/8' rods.
Wheel hop is when the wheels hop . . . violently, actually. It's caused by weak, damaged, worn or inefficient bushings, or weak leaf/coil springs, and lots or traction and torque. It can be fixed by using ladder bars, and changing to better quality/race bushings. Traction bars won't help as much, but they will keep the axle from "wrapping" and the leaf springs from twisting somewhat. In a VW it can be cured with better shocks with a quick rebound, new torsion plate and diagonal bushings, new trans mounts, and a system to keep the frame horns and engine from dropping/flexing under acceleration. A rear sway bar does nothing to help with this problem.
This would be for a street driven Speedster, if you aren't concerned with noise or vibration, there is a whole array of parts and modifications that can be added to eliminate chassis flex and engine movement entirely. Rock solid, great for that stiff race ready around town go-kart feeling, very tiring and annoying for even short expressway jaunts.
Luck,
T
The rear engine support just kinda sits under the engine and is attached at either side by threaded rods. It's essemtially a length of square stock with the ends cut on a 45 degree angle and two "J" bolts. Oh, and a nifty sticker.
When the engine twists a bit, it contacts the length of bar and stops moving to one degree of another. It works OK, but the mounting system isn't the best and the area where it mounts to is often compromised by rust. To work on a Speedster you would need a solidly built rear sub-frame tied to the pan/frame horns and shock towers or the roll bar/cage for it to be of any use at all.
A much better arrangement would be begin with a sub-frame, drill and tap the rear bosses in the case and use the rear engine mount from the '68/'71 Bus. Rather than the silly threaded rod, I'd use a pair of drop links. Much more solid and adjustable and with the Bus engine hanger, you could pre-load the set-up as well.
Way better than a length of square stock shoved up against your engine and a couple of cheezy 3/8' rods.
Wheel hop is when the wheels hop . . . violently, actually. It's caused by weak, damaged, worn or inefficient bushings, or weak leaf/coil springs, and lots or traction and torque. It can be fixed by using ladder bars, and changing to better quality/race bushings. Traction bars won't help as much, but they will keep the axle from "wrapping" and the leaf springs from twisting somewhat. In a VW it can be cured with better shocks with a quick rebound, new torsion plate and diagonal bushings, new trans mounts, and a system to keep the frame horns and engine from dropping/flexing under acceleration. A rear sway bar does nothing to help with this problem.
This would be for a street driven Speedster, if you aren't concerned with noise or vibration, there is a whole array of parts and modifications that can be added to eliminate chassis flex and engine movement entirely. Rock solid, great for that stiff race ready around town go-kart feeling, very tiring and annoying for even short expressway jaunts.
Luck,
T
Ron -- I forgot your car had made the trip to the B.C. My mistake -- but it's still great-looking work!
Hijack --
Dave - If your pipes ever get even a little bit damp and aren't coated in something other than paint, you'll want to take that fiberglass tape off of there.
My pipes rotted through in a matter of a couple months, but they held together juuuuust long enough for me to completely separate the number three at the most opportune moment ever -- turn two at the Old Dominion Speedway.
Lucky for me, Wolfgang and (East Coast) Dale were there to help me wire it back together for the trip home.
TC, if you want that remaining header tape, roughly three rolls of it, I'll gladly trade you for a stock VW shift knob and rubber shifter boot.
-- End hijack (Thanks, Ron ... Sorry!)
Hijack --
Dave - If your pipes ever get even a little bit damp and aren't coated in something other than paint, you'll want to take that fiberglass tape off of there.
My pipes rotted through in a matter of a couple months, but they held together juuuuust long enough for me to completely separate the number three at the most opportune moment ever -- turn two at the Old Dominion Speedway.
Lucky for me, Wolfgang and (East Coast) Dale were there to help me wire it back together for the trip home.
TC, if you want that remaining header tape, roughly three rolls of it, I'll gladly trade you for a stock VW shift knob and rubber shifter boot.
-- End hijack (Thanks, Ron ... Sorry!)
DONE DEAL ! ! ! !
But I have a vast selection of shift knobs and shifters that you might like better. Either way, shoot me an email and we'll set up the dealio, OK?
By the way, the most comfortable "shift knob" that I've ever used was an aluminum Stanley wood plane replacement handle, drilled out at the bottom and threaded for an old Hurst shifter. I had it in one of my '62 Chevys and it was perfection ! ! !
Had to be comfortable if you think about it, planes get a lot of use and take a long time doing their job, if they had uncomfortable handles, nobody would use 'em and everyone would hear about it.
Got one here if you wanna try it.
Later-
T
But I have a vast selection of shift knobs and shifters that you might like better. Either way, shoot me an email and we'll set up the dealio, OK?
By the way, the most comfortable "shift knob" that I've ever used was an aluminum Stanley wood plane replacement handle, drilled out at the bottom and threaded for an old Hurst shifter. I had it in one of my '62 Chevys and it was perfection ! ! !
Had to be comfortable if you think about it, planes get a lot of use and take a long time doing their job, if they had uncomfortable handles, nobody would use 'em and everyone would hear about it.
Got one here if you wanna try it.
Later-
T
PM sent.
Cory, I live in B.C. About 70 miles east of Vancouver (and Intermeccanica.