Rear mounting of vert frame

There is a cone shaped washer that is placed between the carpet and latch/hoops.

A sleeve would work as well.

Anyone have a pic of the cone shaped washer or a sleeve being used?

Maybe mine is set up wrong--can a few post close pics of how it should be set up/down etc

Here's a photo of how VS does it, showing the cone washer.

The black bar is for tensioning the top once it's been put up and fastened at the back and at the windshield header.

Is the one washer only at the front? How do you move the black bar if 2 bolts are going thru it?  I take it you are using threaded rod and cap nuts??

I believe the bolt with the washer goes through the body. The bolt on the other bow only goes through the steel bar. Hence, movement/tensioning can happen.

It might help to look at the CMC manual in the library under Resources. I shortened my hoops and added heim joints.

Bow rides on the threads of the bolt ....crappy method but will never wear because 99% of the time the top remains down.

Or off, hanging in the garage.

The manual does a poor job on this section--yes I even have it printed off. So the black bar is to be able to move around and I should bolt the farthest back bar just to it?

Yes

Here shot of mine - I have a shock top washer under the flipper

Sacto Mitch posted:

 

Here's a photo of how VS does it, showing the cone washer.

The black bar is for tensioning the top once it's been put up and fastened at the back and at the windshield header.

 

 This has actually worked well for me the few times I've had the top up for some chilly weather drives. Leave it in the untensioned position, attach the top to the windshield frame, button up all of the rear snaps/fasteners, and push the black plastic tensioner down in place, and your done - works great.

Great info--where can you find a "cone washer"? Will be heading to ACE later today. Can you just stack up washers? If the tip of the cone centers into the hole that would make sense to stabilize frame. Mine rear bolt was bolted thru FB but no nut attached.

Do not over think this. You are just getting it off the carpet to keep it from wearing. Call VS and ask them as I have not been able to find them here.

I believe they are valve spring seats of some sort.

Bill - Yes, Empi 00-4016 aluminum alloy valve spring retainers. 8 for $20

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDe...ProductCode=C13-4016

Stack some .05 washers 

Yup sounds like what I will do--may go to plastic washers

before i redid my CMC style frame with a folding one, i added a turn buckle to each o the hoops in the middle.  made adjusting the top  easy-peeze.

I am also still running a some foam pipe insulation on each bow. 

Mango - Is their a picture on your site?  I know I looked through them several times.  Some outstanding work.  Didn't someone also add heim joints  to one end?

Gordon (?) used electrical shrink wrap on the bows to make them look nicer and be smoother.

@WOLFGANG I posted yesterday that I shortened the hoops and added heim joints.

Sorry missed that - just saw the YES post.  Any photos?  Did you just run a tap in the bows to make threads or weld on a nut?  Seems a great way to adjust height and tension at same time.

I did, in fact, use long pieces of 3/4" ID shrink tube over the top bows.  Makes them look super-nice forever, but bear in mind that it will cost you quite a bit more than paint.  I had the tube kicking around, got it for free and that's where it got used.

It seems to me that I had a bunch of those cone-washers kicking around, too.  If I can find them I'll send you a couple.  They're not much special.  If you find a VW engine builder, they're pretty much the same as valve spring washers.  In fact, Kirk once told me he used valve spring retainers for that top pivot and they looked cool:

http://www.cbperformance.com/product-p/1504.htm

Do we still have personal photos on this site? If not, I will look for photos when I get home.

It has been a long time since I did it. Afterall, this was a 30 year build time. The inside of the hoop tube is greater diameter than heim threaded part. I think what I did was tap the hoop tube and screw in a brake line fitting to reduce the diameter. Then I tapped that for the heim joint. After that I powder coated the hoops.

THAT, sir, is pretty clever!

I used the brake line fittings a couple of other places too. I used one through the fiberglass where the "hood" prop rod goes to avoid wearing the fiberglass hole.

I also used a brake line fitting where the rear deck lid pin goes to hold it open.

In the photo, you can see how I modified the lever to hold it away from the carpet instead of using a cone washer. Where it screws in I have a nylon washer between two chrome washers.

Very nice thinking and install, Michael. Inspiration for me to do better on mine over the winter. Thanks for sharing the ideas. 

Fine work--I'm rather new to these FB cars so everything your provide is a huge jolt to where I should be heading. The heim joints and turn buckles are a great idea for fine tuning. Guess I have my work cut out for me.

I don't use the heim joints for adjustment, although that is possible. I just wanted something that looked a little more finished than a bolt through a hole in the hoop.

@Michael McKelvey that looks great!  What type of brake line fittings did you use??

Something similar to this. I used some epoxy paste to round out the flats.

Michael McKelvey posted:

I used the brake line fittings a couple of other places too. I used one through the fiberglass where the "hood" prop rod goes to avoid wearing the fiberglass hole.

I also used a brake line fitting where the rear deck lid pin goes to hold it open.

In the photo, you can see how I modified the lever to hold it away from the carpet instead of using a cone washer. Where it screws in I have a nylon washer between two chrome washers.

@Michael McKelvey

Very clean install. 

Are the rods/bows just slipped over the brake screw and or can the heim ends just be pulled/slipped off?

WOLFGANG posted:

Bill - Yes, Empi 00-4016 aluminum alloy valve spring retainers. 8 for $20

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDe...ProductCode=C13-4016

I like the alloy look.

If anyone wants to chip in on a set, let me know. I've tried to get these from NAPA and the guys there are clueless...so frustrating, I give up before they do... 

@Bill Prout the heim joints screw into the ends of the hoops.

@Michael McKelvey Yes I understand that. But how does it attach to the tension lever? Do they slide on and off of the brake line fittings if you wanted to remove the bows leaving the lever attached to the body?

The heim joints can be had with spacers that fit in the holes and I would think would be bolted like CMC build manual.  

@Bill Prout, the brake line fittings are like the adapter to the right of the nut in Wolfgang's picture.

In my case, the brake line fittings are screwed into the ends of the hoops. They are colored black, along with the hoops and are now invisible.

The heim joints screw into the brake line fitting. There is a round chrome nut on the shaft of each heim joint.

The heim joints attach to the tension lever with allen head cap screws. Because of the round heads you may not have realized these are bolts.

Yes, the round heads threw me off. Got it! Thanks for taking the time to clarify.

This is how I'd like to attach my hardtop when I get to that point.