Rear suspension bar caps

https://sierramadrecollection....l-356-s-50-65-p18345

If you aren't looking to make them actually functional - but faux like on VS speedsters:

Mark where you want them.  Buy a fine-toothed hole saw of proper diameter.  Hot glue a small block of wood to the center of desired indent.  Shorten pilot drill in hole saw.  Using block to center drill slowly in reverse to get desired depth of indentation.  You need to seal the edges of the fiberglass so it doesn't absorb water and damage the fiberglass.  Pop the wood pilot block off.

I wouldn't do it to a car that has a great paint job - something you want to do as you are prepping for paint.  I've considered doing it on my CMC - but would first have to move the lower trim forward.

Functional ones would take fiberglass work and repainting.

@WOLFGANG posted:

If you aren't looking to make them actually functional - but faux like on VS speedsters:

Mark where you want them.  Buy a fine-toothed hole saw of proper diameter.  Hot glue a small block of wood to the center of desired indent.  Shorten pilot drill in hole saw.  Using block to center drill slowly in reverse to get desired depth of indentation.  You need to seal the edges of the fiberglass so it doesn't absorb water and damage the fiberglass.  Pop the wood pilot block off.

I wouldn't do it to a car that has a great paint job - something you want to do as you are prepping for paint.  I've considered doing it on my CMC - but would first have to move the lower trim forward.

Functional ones would take fiberglass work and repainting.

I don't see the point if they aren't functional. How will you service the torsion bars, if needed?  Removing the body would be a lot of work.  

@LI-Rick posted:

I don't see the point if they aren't functional. How will you service the torsion bars, if needed?  Removing the body would be a lot of work.  

You'd be surprised, Rick. I've had 3 speedsters - a replica of unknown origin, a JPS, and an IM. Only the IM had removable torsion caps.

@WOLFGANG posted:

If you aren't looking to make them actually functional - but faux like on VS speedsters:

Mark where you want them.  Buy a fine-toothed hole saw of proper diameter.  Hot glue a small block of wood to the center of desired indent.  Shorten pilot drill in hole saw.  Using block to center drill slowly in reverse to get desired depth of indentation.  You need to seal the edges of the fiberglass so it doesn't absorb water and damage the fiberglass.  Pop the wood pilot block off.

I wouldn't do it to a car that has a great paint job - something you want to do as you are prepping for paint.  I've considered doing it on my CMC - but would first have to move the lower trim forward.

Functional ones would take fiberglass work and repainting.

I was considering something like this, but I can make it functional by drowning two bolts inside the fender around the hole with resin, and glueing a metal piece with two holes like the one that comes with the kit in Sierra Madre, a bit rudimentary but I will try it, will share pics when done, thanks!

@Stan Galat posted:

You'd be surprised, Rick. I've had 3 speedsters - a replica of unknown origin, a JPS, and an IM. Only the IM had removable torsion caps.

I guess it’s always easier to unglue it and glue it back when needed instead of going through the hassle of making it functional, besides, how many times you want to mess up with the torsion bars once they are adjusted?

My buddy Ric just made some vinyl stick on circles for his RSK and Spyder. From 5’< away, you can’t tell the difference.

Now, if you actually want to remove your torsion bars…

AFAIK, you only need to pull the torsion bars out about 3” to re-index the inner splines.

I made functional torsion bar holes in my car prior to painting.  You can buy the covers and backing plate from Sierra Madre.  Then use a hole saw that is the appropriate size for the OD of the cover and cut into the body the correct depth.  Next use a hole saw about 1/2" smaller in diameter and cut all the way thru the body.  Then I used a small die grinder and ground the material between the larger cut circle and the opening in order to form the step for the cover to fit flush.  Seal the cut fiberglass area to prevent damage from water and/or paint the area.  Also the cover will need to be painted.  Note: Use some type of thin gasket material between the cover and the opening to help prevent the fresh paint from sticking!

https://sierramadrecollection....l-356-s-50-65-p18345

@James posted:

I made functional torsion bar holes in my car prior to painting.  You can buy the covers and backing plate from Sierra Madre.  Then use a hole saw that is the appropriate size for the OD of the cover and cut into the body the correct depth.  Next use a hole saw about 1/2" smaller in diameter and cut all the way thru the body.  Then I used a small die grinder and ground the material between the larger cut circle and the opening in order to form the step for the cover to fit flush.  Seal the cut fiberglass area to prevent damage from water and/or paint the area.  Also the cover will need to be painted.  Note: Use some type of thin gasket material between the cover and the opening to help prevent the fresh paint from sticking!

https://sierramadrecollection....l-356-s-50-65-p18345

Nice work! Looks factory.

@dlearl476 posted:

My buddy Ric just made some vinyl stick on circles for his RSK and Spyder. From 5’< away, you can’t tell the difference.

Hmmm . . . .   Rear torsion bars are a 550 thing.  The 718 (RSK, etc.) spyders are IRS and one probably wouldn't want to fake torsion bar holes on a 718 replica.

I would do something like that just to goad the Porsche Purists!

@RS-60 mark posted:

Hmmm . . . .   Rear torsion bars are a 550 thing.  The 718 (RSK, etc.) spyders are IRS and one probably wouldn't want to fake torsion bar holes on a 718 replica.

You’re probably correct and I misremembered him saying he made them fit both. Then again, like Gordon suggested, he is mischievous like that.

eta: Gordo nailed it

@LI-Rick posted:

I don't see the point if they aren't functional. How will you service the torsion bars, if needed?  Removing the body would be a lot of work.  

To index the ride height you don't need to remove the torsion bars from the chassis; if you want to do that then you need the holes. For IRS cars it's even more difficult to index the ride height in these cases due to the design of the IRS torsion bar.