In order to get somewhere close to a "normal" ride height when first building a Speedster, do the rear torsions need to be adjusted? I am shooting for the top of the rear fender wells to be aligned with the top of the wheels.
Also, how much total adjustment can you expect to get from adjustable spring plates?
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Assume you mean to top of rims (vs wheels). That will take some lowering. Tire size also comes into play. 80 series tires were tall - 65 seems to be the norm now. My inpression is that the adjustable spring plates are great for fine tuning 1/4 to 1/2" height. I have the double spring plates so didn't want to give up the 2nd spring. Perhaps with less weight on the Speedster its a mute point.
Yes, I was referring to the top of the rims. I want it to sit about the same height as an original car.
Did you change the position of the spring plates on your car? Thanks for the help!
Yes, you must change the position of the spring plates on your car to get it the correct height.
No, it probably doesn't make sense to try to do it before you get the body mounted and the engine in because everything you add increases the weight on the torsion bars.
Wait til you get towards the end of your build when you have everything together and THEN set the rear (and front) height. You can see how the rear is adjusted here:
https://www.speedsterowners.com...rear-ride-height--vw
The only thing I've changed is that I no longer recommend using baby powder on the torsion bar bushings, instead recommending the use of CV joint grease (available just about anywhere - I got mine from NAPA)
Good luck!
I used adjustable torsion bars on mine and I set it up just where you want it (the top of the rim level with the wheel opening); I don't remember having to mess around with the spline placement inside.
