Skip to main content

I have a new to me Beck and wondered if this rear sway bar will fit as I have the 1.5 quart deep sump kit with the swing axle.  It dosen't look like it should interfer but stuff happens! Any comments on if it will fit and is it worthwhile?  

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDe...ode=ACC%2DC10%2D4035

 

Thank you.

 

Gary

 

Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

The sump won't get in the way of the camber compensator, it runs in-line with the axles under the trans. You do want to be using a camber compensator with a swing-axle, not an anti-roll bar.

The compensator resists the jacking forces that can cause rear wheel tuck which will result in a spin or rollover. An anti-roll bar will make the jacking effect occur faster and can make things worse when used with a swing axle.

Get one with the straps over the axles.
Last edited by justinh

Sure, depending on the unloaded shape of the transverse spring and where it mounts to the transaxle/frame.  If it is a flat or curved slightly down bar and mounted far enough below the centerline of the axles, it will tend to pull down on the axles forcing the camber to go positive (this is called "pre-load").  The original 356 Super 90 pre-load bar looked like the one sold by 356 Enterprises (scroll down a bit here:  http://www.356enterprises.com/...ensionAndBrakes.html), attached to the lower shock mounts and easily had the capability to pre-load the axles by screwing the Heim ends up or down, if that's what you wanted for your application.

 

In VW sedan and dune buggy racing, I have seen camber compensators (at least three different styles), a "Z-Bar" and an anti-roll bar used, all on swing axle cars and each for a different application and/or effect.  IIRC, MUSBJIM had an anti-roll bar on his white, swing-arm Speedster, too.

 

On my swing-arm autocross buggy, I had a full rear anti-sway bar that was mounted to the rear torsion tube and the ends mounted to the lower shock mounts with adjustable dog bones.  THAT worked the best.  Then I went to a Deserter buggy with IRS and that was a whole different world.

Last edited by Gordon Nichols

Well, I believe it would be a cost wash between buying a rear camber compensator to drag your rear end down (maybe something Kim Kardashian could use, too) or paying someone to adjust your rear torsion bars downward a bit to the body height (and subsequent neutral to negative camber) that you want.

 

Personally, and since I've done this operation a lot and don't think it's a big deal, I would just figure out how much you want to drop the rear end height and just adjust the rear torsion bars/spring plates to give you the height and negative camber you want.  Any decent VW guy can do it - even easier if you follow my article in the Knowledge section (or give a copy to your wrench) since I've done the math for ya....

BTW........

 

A "camber compensator" is to be used AFTER you have set the rear end of the car to the desired height, based, I suppose for this forum, on how it 'looks'.  That has nothing to do with how it might handle (although, with a swing-arm car, lowering it can improve corner handling).  

 

Once the car is at the desired rear-end height and the camber compensator is installed properly (in a neutral (no load in either up or down direction) position), the CC will try to keep the inside wheel from moving down (negative) in very hard cornering while attempting to keep the car body flat with respect to the axle line of the car.  At the same time, it will attempt to keep the outside wheel from going up from cornering forces.  These two things, combined, try to keep the car body relatively flat in hard cornering, making it go through corners faster NOT because it limits body lean, but because it minimizes (as best it can) the tires from rolling up onto their sidewalls.

 

If all you want is a particular "look" and ride height for your rear end, just lower the rear of the car by adjusting the torsion bars.  Once you get it there and if you want it to handle better in the curves, install a camber compensator that can not only pull down the outside wheel by way of a strap over the axle tubes, but also push up the inside wheel by sliding along the bottom of the axle tube.  If that function happens with an anti-sway bar connected to the lower shock mounts by dog bones to hold the axles to the same plane (as best they can), just as good.

Last edited by Gordon Nichols

When I added my CB camber comp. it raised the rear about 1" and gave me some positive camber, which also reduced the wheel well clearance a bit. I removed it to pull the engine and do some other work, trans mounts etc. It was not replaced when the other work was done, and I saw no significant difference in handling or ride, so I left it off. I don't auto cross or push it really hard so your mileage may vary.

Post Content
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×