Rear Torsion Bar to Internal Sway Bar conversion for a Coil Over or Bagged suspension car

Fine for an IRS car, if you can get the torsion bars small enough for anti-sway. I wouldn't put a rear bar on a swingaxle though, it ends up having the opposite effect. Camber compensater yes, anti-sway bar NO.

I put on a camber compensator on my swingaxle car; easy to install and it works.

this only works if you’re going to coil over shocks or air bagged suspension.

only if you don't want side to side adjustability too.

i ended up going with adjustable spring plates.  unload them and it essentially becomes a free moving hiem joint.

Yup!

CB performance one is the best bang for the buck IMO

I got EMPI (yes I know) but it has worked well and no complaints for the past few years.

I put on the one from CB as well and have been very happy with it

Ditto Impala's, Christian's and Tub4Stu's comments, I got mine at Aircooled.net http://vwparts.aircooled.net/V...mber-compensator.htm

Despite satisfaction with the camber compensator, I decided to scrap the VW set up entirely in favor of Mendeola front and rear suspension

OK....NOW I'm jealous! Cool set-up!

Great idea. You'll also need to plug weld the center coupler to the shorter torsion bar. You can't weld it to the longer one or you can't install it obviously. And you shouldn't perimeter weld it because you could affect the temper of the bar. If it's not welded in place, the center coupler could float off the splines and disconnect the two torsion bars.

Hell, even putting a cotter pin through it would work.

And if my math is right, using two 25mm bars that way would get you pretty close to the same wheel rate as a 3/4" regular sway bar.

I think it's a nifty idea. Should work fine, assuming your coil-over rates were correct for the weight.

I'll be eager to hear how this works in real life.

Mango Quote - only if you don't want side to side adjustability too.  – For air bags this is true. I’m looking to coil spring one of mine and this is why I’ve poured a bit of thought and time into it.

Quote - I ended up going with adjustable spring plates.  Unload them and it essentially becomes a free moving hiem joint. - Very true!

Justinh - to your statement:

Sounds like a few got the concept I was conveying.

As much as a cotter pin, pinning without welding was my take on it as well. But getting very deep into the logistics…, I felt just getting the concept out was the biggest hurdle.

As the article states, put the long torsion bar in first. But what I didn‘t say was push it out the other side until it catches inside the center of the housing on the spring plate end of the bar. The small splined end is now sticking out the side..., just push the splined coupler on and insert the short bar into it, indexed of course!

I can rattle off deep details, but unless you’re a race car and wrench twister kind of guy…, most get this “what planet are you from look in their eyes”.

I see you reposted about bar diameter and spring rates. This is another point I meant to cover that in mixing bar sizes makes both sides of the car respond the same and not one side more than the other. Mechanically this is one bar that your leverage point works off the other wheel. You could run an 18mm and a 30mm and you wouldn’t know which side had which bar.

All of this said, I know pictures are worth a thousand words…, I’ll see what I can do this weekend to post something.

Right, you simply combine any two bars' spring rates to get the total for the assembly:

1 / springrate_total = 1 / springrate1 + 1 / springrate2

Here you are, it’s not a picture, but a drawing instead.