rear wheel gasket(s) installation

I had the same problem, Meade.  I think it requires some form of magic.

I have read that the German seal kits are the only ones that will last.The aftermarket seal and gasket kits are not made correctly. I bought the Kits made in Germany and haven't had any issue.

I bought two kits so I guess Ill go out and try again myself.  Then if that doesn't work, I will put it back in the shop again.

Jimmy:

Where did you score the kits from?

What issue are you having installing ?

I get all my transmission parts from Weddle. I've never had a leak from their parts.

Drew's Off road in Ohio. They stock both kits.

I think their online presence is Dunebuggywarehouse.com

I thought I had it nailed yesterday; I pulled it all off, wiped and cleaned everything and started at the main bearing (#6, thanks for the diagram, Alan),I put the LARGE rubber O-ring on first, then the paper gasket.. ("m buying all "made in Germany parts). I have yet find a paper gasket (#11) that would over the lip behind the bearing. Hence, I produce the razor blade and trim a slight sliver around the ID of the gasket.Next comes the flat metal washer, then the small o-ring, then the beveled spacer. The next paper gasket gets trimmed and placed on the carrier cover. The oil slinger is placed inside the carrier and hen the oil seal is pressed in behind the oil slinger.  Everything get's lined up and the outer cover is CAREFULLY AND EVENLY SECURED WITH THE 4 BOLTS to the bearing assembly. I truly that last step is one of the most critical, otherwise, the oil slinger is simply a dangling piece of metal on the axle, under the axle nut.  

I probably got something out written sequence, but that's bout it.  I drove it and it still pulls to the right, so I sent ff for new rear pads, which are due to arrive next Wednesday. Thanks for all the suggestions Guys!!

If the grease leaked out into the drum the pads are ruined and must be replaced.  Also you need to thoroughly clean everything, particularly the inside of the drum, with brake cleaner.  And then you get to enjoy the adjustment process.  What fun!

I also noticed in the diagram that it shows only ONE paper gasket.  Is that significant?

I use a paper gasket on BOTH sides of the backing plate. In my case the "backing plate" is the caliper bracket. The caliper bracket is a VERY snug fit on the axle. I place a gasket first then the bracket. The gasket's hole is a little small and needs to be enlarged a smidgen. I squeeze the gasket into place with the 4 flange/backing plate bolts(and some nuts for spacers). Then after the backing plate is seated, I remove the bolts and backing plate. The extra bits of paper that got trimmed are removed next.

Then I continue on as normal. The OLD kits had 2 each slightly different sized gaskets but now all 4 are the same.

I end up with a gasket on either side of the backing plate. I find it easiest to install the large O-ring onto the bearing, then slide the bearing cover(with pre-installed by you new oil seal) over the whole deal. Not a bad idea to put making tape over the splines on the axle to ensure the oil seal doesn't get damaged.

Cross my fingers, I've never had a leak.

The German kits are the only ones that would work for me. I tried 2 sets of the others before I smartened up. 

Also a very slight smear of hi-temp silicone on everything. May not be Kosher but it's worked for me for 4 years.

Knock on wood.

I took Jimmy V's suggestion and ordered two gasket set and a new set of pads from Dunebuggycity/warehouse.

Is crossing of the fingers weekend. If it don't work this time, I'm taking it up to my mechanics at the local Yugo dealership...

Mine were redone last when I had Special Edition do my Suby conversion and also install rear disc brakes. They used some red RTV with their install and I am dry with no leaks. I have seen some good Youtube videos on how to replace the wheel bearings and reassemble with a new gasket sets as well. They too mention the need for German made gasket kits to be successful.  I was surprised to see the RTV used on my setup  but Carey and the gang know what works for sure. 

ME and a friend have had a lot of practice doing this in the past week after putting in a rebuilt Rancho transaxle in his '67 Bug. On the advice of my VW guru mechanic we put both paper seals on the brake side of the backing plate. Like previously posted, it would make sense to me to use one gasket on each side of the backing plate but I was told no. Crossing our fingers for no leaks, we are putting the gear oil in it tonight.

I checked out Youtube, and there's aBrit on there that does a PHENOMINAL (sp) detailing the process.  I followed his ideas and everything seems to work.  

Now a new monster has raised his ugly head.   I don't have any brake lights and I've checked; switching brake light switches on the master cylinder, pulling all the fuses to note what fuse does what. I'm wondering if there's not some relay that goes with the brakes, under the dash.  Suggestions?

Meade

I’ve seen that guy on Youtube too; JustKampers. Great job too but sometimes he makes it seem easier than it turns  out to be or maybe he’s lucky. 

I believe there’s no relays for the  brake lights. Gotta be either the switches on the master cylinder or fuses. Ruling out light bulbs because it’s both of them.

If someone has looped both taillight grounds together as a common ground,  that may also be a possibility.

Well, it worked for one day, but I pulled the disk off to have it turned and when I got back home, it was dripping.  But it was leaking slowly and I could see that it was leaking from the exterior of the large oil seal.  Also, I don't have an oil slinger that is large enough to NOT pass through the oil seal.  I have the cover tightened to 38 pounds

I believe the cover gets tightened to 43 ft-pounds (at least swingaxle units). I've read that it doesn't matter if the exterior oil slinger is smaller than the hole in the metal cover, it still works. Doing the least modification to any seal could be a problem. Maybe using the razor blade was not a good idea?

The paper gasket is a bitch !  I thought about a blade trick as well, but I wrestled it into place with some swearing

It would be very helpful to have a third arm in the middle of your chest for these situations . 

I have always used the razor blade but be careful around the holes for the studs.

meade

The guy at the local shop stopped the leak and it drove okay for a while but under hard braking, I'm still getting a pull to the right. I noticed a leak under the car and discovered that I had a leak from the new oil pressure switch.  I pulled it out and there was evidence that someone (me) cross threaded the switch. I put some teflon tape on another switch and it went right in, stopping the leak. I bled the brakes  and got a bit firmer pedal and it seems to stop ok when the brakes are cold.  But as the car warms up, I get the pull to the right again. I'm going to do some more testing today by checking drag on the disks.Stay tuned for more exciting adventures of the mystery brakes...

Sorting is fun isn't it?