Rebuilt front suspension really tight

Has it been greased? Ball joint or link pin? Is the new beam narrower than the old? Using the same shocks? Did the old beam have full torsion leaf stacks?

 

It is going to loosen up some after driving a while if it's all new parts. Try putting a jack under one of the trailing arms and jacking up that side of the car. Do you get a decent amount of upward suspension movement when you do that?

I was about to grease it and thought I would get some opinions first before just in case I had to take it apart.  It is ball joint and I noticed the new ball joints are a lot tighter than the old used ones.  New beam is the same original size and the leafs are the same.  I actually have the shocks off right now and compared to before I probably wont need to use shocks for a while.

 

I will try jacking up one side tomorrow when I work on it again.  

 

Then I'd just grease it up and drive it a bit first.

 

Though I really don't recommend running without shocks.

Hbkmat,

 

since we use the same ball joints as a stock Vw used, I've got some insite for. There was a bunch of ball joint manufactured a while back that aware to tights. 

These were supposed to be the better quality German ones.  Do they soften up or am I looking at taking this thing apart.  Is there a way to know without driving it as I still have plenty of things to do before it is running?

Jeez, don't take it out of your driveway without the shocks!!!...Just five minutes per side and you're ready for whatever unseen, unexpected, things are lurking and waiting for you on the road.

If it's got all the torsion leaves it's probably too stiff. Your car's nose weighs a lot less than a stock Bug's does.

Actually they will not wear in. We use only the high quality German ones on the Mendeola front ends and we ended up with about 40 of these ball joints. I think they were the myle brand if memory servse me correctly. The problem was the fact that they were machined incorrectly and when they are pressed in the cup crushes in on the ball and they will not move easy like they should.

Kevin, would you remember, or do you have the Mahle Part# for these defective ball joints?...so Ill know what NOT to buy when the time comes.

Man my car would be done already if I didnt have to do everything twice haha.  Ok is there a way to test the ball joints before install?

Sorry these were just the stock part number. The only way to tell is they feel a little tight at first. But after you install them they do not move with out a hammer.

Alright so I bought new ball joints from rockauto and between the moog and uro brand the uro brand feel better.  The good news is the Uro ball joints are only 5 bucks a piece. Hopefully this helps some of you guys save money and time.

Let me know if you need the old ones pressed out or the new ones in?

I might need to take you up on that. What is your availability like? I tried renting the tool from AutoZone and that was funny.