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Paint issues as to the quality of the finish usually comes down to prep and most importantly the guy holding the gun. In the past I've had used cars done at Maaco that no one would believe it was a $300 job, it looked fantastic!
When having a car painted find out who the sprayer is and hand him a $20 bill or so you'll be amazed at the job you'll get. On the flip side I have also spent $3,000 at a pro shop and was less than happy.
When it comes to painting a car NOTHING beats pre-paint prep work. Next in importance is cleanliness during the shoot and what happens between paint coats. The final rubout is just gravy.

One of the reasons IM's cost more is the 150 hours (or more) of body panel prep via wet block sanding and the quality of the paint job. You can't expect to get a $5,000 paint job on a bargain priced replica.

Kirk turns out nice cars for the price he charges; if you want better quality fit/finish on a new VS contract with him up front for it and pay the difference.
Expectations.....have a clear understanding with the builder and you should be OK....you get what you pay for and unless you communicate what you want then you get the normal. Be ready to pay extra for what you want, this is normal and expected on something being built just for you and not the average person.
I have seen several newer vintage's while looking for my 356 and must say that every one was built very well, the paint may be a valid consign but for the cost all the paint that I have seen is top notch, or in other words better then I would have ever expected for a 20K replica.

I have ~5000 in paint on my 914 for comparison not counting the 50 hours or so of prep work and complete tear down, and the quality is better then my 356 but you got to remember that car paint quality has diminishing return's as price increase. Truely a non automotive enthusist would never be able to tell the difference but of course we are all rather picky about our cars or we would not be here.

If kirk put that much effort into each car then he would never get anything done or the price of the cars would be adjusted accordingly. Plus with a fiberglass body I could never imagine the work needed to truly straigten it out like steel, and with time the fiberglass would settle out, I had to completely go through the body on my laser 917 to get it even remotely straight due to the saging.
You have to remember the old saying you get what you pay for.
I bought mine as a cab only kit. for the money its a good bargan, I corrected what I didn't like. Having worked in a body shop, some of the new paints out their are not up to snuff and are causing problems for a lot of folks.
Just like gasoline when you take the lead out its not as good as it was.I have only seen very good lasting results with the new urethanes. but that's just from what I've seen.
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