Recommendations on windshield contact cement

I've done 8 windshields so far, and all of them seem to still be intact, so I guess that's a pretty good average.

I've given up on contact cement.  Too messy and difficult to work with and a PITA to get the windshield out later on for any reason.

Instead, I've used black silicon caulk.  Shoot a small bead (1/8"-3/16") into the rubber gasket channel and gently put the rubber back on - do not stretch it!

Also run a 1/4" bead about 1/2" back from the front (upright) edge of the metal lower trim (riveted to the cowl) to help that seal, too.

That should do it.

Also, refer here:

 https://www.speedsterowners.com...speedster-windshield

"Instead, I've used black silicon caulk..."

Do not use 100% silicone it is way too glossy

Jim any chance you are near me in PA ?...I would be glad to help

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I have done nearly over two dozen speedster windshields , for the top rubber U channel use electrical tape to hold it in place on the glass, after assembly just pull on the tape and cut with a razor, the excess will retract up under the frame... I always use ALEX Brand latex black caulk from ACE Hardware, it dries flat black and closely matches the rubber and is easy to clean up with a damp cloth.

To bed the windshield to the base aluminum, after dry fitting everything,  I run a fairly heavy bead, wait 15 minutes and set the windshield with the base rubber already on the glass into the caulk, I now do the same at the base of the windshield posts too.....( I tape off around the post base with 1/4" green body shop tape) 

Snug L & R posts then snug center rod, go back and gently snug the L & R posts again doing this until putting light hand pressure on the center top of the windshield does not cause any upwards movement at the base....As you do this the rubber will close the gap which is usually a bit more on the driver's side cowl area. STOP you're done that's all you need to tighten it.

Thanks for the info I'll try the caulk. 8 out of 8 seems like great odds to me! The link you provided is one of the places where I got the idea of the contact cement.

"...Remove the pre-fit rubber pieces and cement them back onto the glass as you had positioned them above with a good grade of contact adhesive....."

Can I assume you put the caulk on then slide the aluminum top frame on to hold it in place until the caulk dries? It seems like an obvious question but I'm going slow and questioning everything.

The windshield seems to be a lot of work. I first tried setting it on the body just to check fit the passenger side fit almost perfectly the drivers side had a gap nearly a 1/2" or more! Looking closer to the cowling, eye lash and the gauge cluster areas they seem to be pieced together it looks like everything sagged or shifted in manufacturing. So two days of fiberglass and bondo to finish it and the gap now is paper thin and everything is feathered out so the buildup won't be noticeable.

My grandfather taught me measure twice cut once! With this I seem to be taking one step reading everything I can find taking another step reading again once or twice and so on.

Thanks for the assistance.

Alan I just realized you are in PA !

I'm near Leesburg VA or Dulles airport!

If you have a car available maybe finished or not and you are around one weekend can I come up to see some finished work, maybe pick you brain on this and take some pictures?

Would especially love to see how the fender beading is done that sounds like a great finishing idea.

Jim

I bow to the Wizard from Chambersburg

He certainly has done more of these things than I ever will.

And he's better at it, too!

(but I have more hair......)

Remember, three years ago in June when a tornado touched down in Leesburg?  My small group rode through that tornado on Bicycles, getting to our hotel downtown.  That cabled barge/ferry across the Potomac is a hoot!

Baawaaahahahhaaaa !

I should ..have  an older pan based IM back from paint Sunday ( so I am told)  will let you know...getting a car back from paint on specific time line is surely the..... " 4th famous lie"

I would love to see picts of that car as you build it Alan, Ray 

Jim:  Do the caulk thing (don't use a lot - you're only trying to seal the gasket, not glue the whole thing together) and then assemble the gasket to the glass and then you could do a THIN smear of caulk on the outside of the upper rubber gasket and fit the top frame over it - That should seal against minor monsoons.

You don't have to wait while the caulk sets up - in fact, it might be a tad better if you goop it up and assemble everything immediately as the uncured caulk will allow things to "slide", as needed, a bit during assembly.

Do wear latex or vinyl gloves while doing this or you'll be trying to get the caulk off you hands for a while.  Blue painter's tape is also handy to hold the top frame/gasket and stuff in place while you're getting everything together and centered and then pulled down.

Remember to do a complete dry-fit first, to make sure everything is lining up, then drill and install the top frame screws in the corner posts.  Make those screws short so that they don't hit the glass (which will eventually crack it).  Also, see the notes in the install article about grinding/filing off the end of the center strut at the top to prevent interference up there, too.

Don't be afraid to ask questions along the way.