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Just installed a pertronix II, coil and plug wires and while I'm at it want to replace the plugs. Any recommendations on specific plug and gap. I have a 1776 with what I believe are small webers. I hope to find out which ones when at Knotts. The only small issue with the pertronix after gently installing the unit on the dist. was that the wires from the dist. to the coil were too short. No big deal just used the cable stretcher in my tool box.

Thanks for the info.

Troy
1957 Vintage Speedsters(Speedster)
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Just installed a pertronix II, coil and plug wires and while I'm at it want to replace the plugs. Any recommendations on specific plug and gap. I have a 1776 with what I believe are small webers. I hope to find out which ones when at Knotts. The only small issue with the pertronix after gently installing the unit on the dist. was that the wires from the dist. to the coil were too short. No big deal just used the cable stretcher in my tool box.

Thanks for the info.

Troy
Following up on Eddie's recommendation if you need the deep plugs for Heads like CB 044s, etc, then I used the Bosch W 8 CC. I also used the NGK's with good success, but I don't recall the number. Our Temps are usually more consistently on the warm side (well it was 14' last night.. so) so I was able to run with the same plug # year round.
Guys,
Our temps are usually higher also but 35 last nite with a high of 49 today so far. Not the norm for here. Temps usually 75-85 when I drive mostly. Not sure about heads or anything else in the engine. It is my hope to learn lots about the engine etc at knotts where I can pick the brains of you gents that have been around these beauties longer than I. Also hope to talk with Kirk.

Just tried to install the pertronix plug wires and the coil to dist. wire is too short. I'll call pertronix tomorrow and I'll bet they have a solution. I know I can get longer wire myself but want all wires to match (pertronix red)

89 days

Troy
Troy, my new VS came with NGK's from the shop. When it first got here I noticed it wasn't burning the fuel correctly; it needed some carb adjustment, which was done but still not working 100%. Then I decided to take a look at the plugs and sure enough found one of them with the ceramic cracked. I bought some Bosch replacements (not the platinum, just the basic kind) with a heat rating one step above the NGK's I had. I set up the gap as per VW factory's specs and it has worked perfectly since then.
Thanx, Troy, I have new wires and plugs to install. I'll have to widen the gap a little and see how it goes.

I will add that when I went from the Ignitor I to the newer
Ignitor II, the car seemed a bit peppier. I did have trouble with the Ignitor II though. When I installed it before our East Coast run last October, the ignition was cutting out intermittantly. I could see the
tach dropping every time it did it. It was like somebody was tapping on a kill switch button for a split second. It went up in smoke on the way back from Sykesville MD. after our run.
Pertronix replaced the unit after I sent the bad one to them.(along with the FlameThrower coil).
One other thing I noticed when I swapped up the the II is that the timing mark stayed rock steady with the timing lite. With the Pertronix I it wasn't as steady.
If anyone has this kind of trouble with the Ignitor II, please pass it along.

BD
Bill, I had the same experience with a Comp-U-Fire Unit. It cut out fire intermittently, then finally cooked. I replaced it with another unit and never had another problem. Good reason to carry either a back up unit or a set of points! I used a Bosch Blue Coil.

Jim

Troy,

Don't forget to make sure the length of the plugs are the same as you pull out. There is a slight possibility that you may have long reach heads. Do you know about the build of the engine? If you do have aftermarket heads be especially careful when threading the plugs back in, the head material can be soft (compared to originals) and they easily cross-thread!

Jim
Wow finished the pertronix and plug change and what a difference. Smoother accel. better everything. I'll bet it will run even better when I can get the timing really correct. I only have one timing mark on my pulley which I am assuming is TDC. I kind of guessed where I thought 8-10 degrees might be on the pulley and static timed it there. Any one out there know what the distance is on the pulley for the other two standard marks. I can always duplicate the distance using a tape measure.

Troy
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