Maybe I have an advantage over you Speedster guys because the Spyder engine bay is wide open? I set the angles to perfectly match, dead vertical and same distance L-R and the exact same angle F-R. I used a bunch of washers to space the downlinks to within a fraction of a degree. No it isn't perfect but it's darn close. I guess in a Speedster you'd have to line all this up before the motor goes in? The bottom line is it works, very well, and it LASTS. Plus it's cheap. Which is why I put the thread over here and NOT on the synclink thread. I'm not saying it is do-all-end-all. But it does the job for the guy who is unwilling to spend $300 beans on linkage.
So I really don't care about your expensive thing, I'll never use one, there's just no need. Well maybe if I got one for free, but I would never spend $300 on one. You have to realize this is a guy that spent considerable money on an engine, more than most. But at the same time, I also put crankfire ignition on the car for a grand total of $160. So I spend money where I think I should, but not where it seems there is a better/equal solution and cheaper.
Stan, are you talking the cast aluminum arms or the carb arms? My cast arms are identical.
I used mild steel rod bought at Home Depot, my heims were like $5 each from a race shop in western NY. So less than $20, shipping included. Plus an hour of my time to do it, and maybe another hour to think it all up. It is still good after 31,000 miles, so I really don't understand the wear problems.
This thread is not for why the synclink is better or my modified hexbar wore out. Sorry, can't hear you, I'm out driving the crap out of my engine, linkage, trans, and tires.....