Remote oil cooler advise

For your climate (SA) I think it will work fine.  For colder climates (like Northern VA) I would use a thermostatic by pass switch (center of full flow picture) but doubt you'll be out in 40 degree temps.  If you keep oil runs short then stock pump in good nick are fine. 

They do make IN-OUT oil pump covers - where you keep OEM oil cooler too.  Have not seen comparison of two methods.  If dog house cooler - I'd try to keep it. 

Thanks a million Wolfgang,

I will be removing the stock oil cooler and running directly to the external oil cooler.

I have read somewhere when running a external oil cooler its best to remove the oil strainer any advice on this issue..... with or without a oil strainer.

I have an external cooler. Was I supposed to take the stock cooler out?

Rusty - Preferred installation is full flow where engine case is tapped for fittings.  He's using take off where old cooler was located.  Advantage is that cylinder 3 isn't blocked by oil cooler - but you loose that oil cooler.

Okay - Roland full flowed the case when he did the motor. The stock cooler is in. So that is correct for my setup right? Any additional cooling efficiency that I can get I will take it! 

I have two Setrab oil coolers mounted in the front of my car and I'm still going to keep the stock shroud mounted cooler.

Manny, I'm not sure why you want to get rid of the stock cooler, but I'd recommend against it.  I'd recommend using the part that Wolfgang posted, along with a bypass switch.

You could do this:

1.  in/out oil pump cover

2.  line to oil filter

3.  Mocal Thermostatic Sandwich Adapter

     http://vwparts.aircooled.net/M...sandwich-adapter.htm

4.  line to oil cooler

5.  oil cooler

6.  line back to in/out oil pump cover.

Definitely keep the stock cooler and as one of the members here advised me, put your cooler fan temp switch after the cooler or it will run all the time. As it is, on 80 degree days when mine is warmed up, the fan runs all the time.  The problem is the temp switch is set too low at 180 degrees.  Also definitely run an oil thermostat as said above.

Advice and suggestions well appreciated, Thank you.

The issues with the schematic in your first post- Running the extra cooler in series with the filter will ultimately cause more engine wear because of longer warm-up times. You want the cooler in a loop off the filter return line, and that way you can add a thermostat so the oil is only being cooled when the engine is fully warmed up.

The airflow through the shroud and cylinder covers is balanced with the oil cooler in place and removing it causes one bank to run up to 50'F hotter, so leave it in place. As Frank said (good to hear your listening, dude!), the best place for the thermostat/switch for the fan is after the cooler, as you want the fan coming on only when needed and not running all the time. And I agree, at least some of them come on too early! A VW is just hitting it's stride when the oil gets to 180'.

Other than drilling/tapping the block for an return line (which can be done with the engine assembled), Greg's (Wolfgang) suggestion of using a pump with in and out ports will work. Some of these covers only have 1/4" passages in them so you're pretty well limited to about 6,000 rpm; not that I think you're installing a high rpm screamer. I believe people have ported them to flow better.

The VW's oil cooler (dog house being prefferred) worked pretty good if you stay relatively stock. 

With Many's first drawing, the one replacing the original VW oil cooler, I'd think you don't want or need an external thermostat, VW internals handle that and only send oil to the cooler as it heats and thins out.  This set-up was popular on early fan housings prior to the intoduction of the dog house style.  All you've done is move the cooler outside the housing, just like VW did in later years. 

If you go full flow, and many have on hotter engines, then I think you'd want/need the external thermostat to reroute the cold oil back and bypass the cooler because you are not taking advantage of the VW internals that controled oil cooling. 

You really want the oil to get up to temp as soon as possible and into the 180 - 212 operating area in order to drive off moisture, some cars never get the oil warm enough on these little cars.