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Remote oil coolers...Help!!!

LeonChuppLeonChupp
My latest project has become a pain close to my wallet.....It has a 2litre(?) type 4 bus engine. The engine is fitted with an OLDE down the middle shroud....The oil cooler box on this unit leaves tons to be desired on the design of the air feed and discharge plumbing provisions....Rather than screw around with it, I am pondering installing an external, fan cooled oil cooler with thermo switch....I don't believe the engine is overly stressed with horsepower, so something nominal should work. (It had only a stock cooler to begin with)
The question is how big...I would think a 72 plate unit would be overkill, but if I mount it in the cavern behind the tub, will I have room??? Any and all comments welcome...

Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.....  

 

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LeonChuppLeonChupp
My latest project has become a pain close to my wallet.....It has a 2litre(?) type 4 bus engine. The engine is fitted with an OLDE down the middle shroud....The oil cooler box on this unit leaves tons to be desired on the design of the air feed and discharge plumbing provisions....Rather than screw around with it, I am pondering installing an external, fan cooled oil cooler with thermo switch....I don't believe the engine is overly stressed with horsepower, so something nominal should work. (It had only a stock cooler to begin with)
The question is how big...I would think a 72 plate unit would be overkill, but if I mount it in the cavern behind the tub, will I have room??? Any and all comments welcome...
Alan MerklinAlan MerklinDrclock - Elkins, West Virginia Supporting Member
Mesa 72 row with a thermostat controlled fan is what I use with an easy to add a "parade" toggle switch under the dash so that you can overide the stat.
I run constaant 12v to the fan via an in line fuse off of the hot side of the coil like the stock VW Beetle reverse light switch was done. The stat and toggle switches are wired as the ground to complete the circuit.
FM Former Member
Not the very best way to wire the cooling fan. The live wire from the key switch to coil is, or ought to be, a resistor wire. You shouldn't have any high amp draw (such as an electric fan motor) coming from the coil, only the auto choke and anti-dieseling solenoid honestly.

The fan really ought to have it's own 12 volt feed from the fuse block and operate off of a relay.

Just a suggestion.
FM Former Member
I'd always heard that the VW used a resistance wire to the coil which was why the Bosch coil didn't need an in-line resistor. Probably mentioned in the manual or on the web somewhere.

I'd like to know for sure, as I'm gonna piece together my own wire loom for the Fiat and was planning on utilizing the stock VW rear sub-harness just because of the resistor
wire that I'd heard was used.

Edit:

Just found this:

http://www.cars-guide.com/volkswagen-forum/hot-coil-t8339.html

But it WAS on the web and you know that everything is suspect.
LeonChuppLeonChupp
I've seen a few CMCs with holes cut in their firewalls in front of the cooling air intake....I've also seem threads on ducting these holes.....My question is are these absolutely neccessary???
My current project has this hole, and if I mount the remote oil cooler in front of the firewall behind the tub, I'll be dumping heated air into the engine.....Maybe not too bad while cruising, but a potential problem Ideling.....Thoughts anyone????
FM Former Member
Just a note on the type four engine. I also have a Mesa external oil cooler mounted in the left rear wheel well - blowing into the wheel well, with a thermostat.

As to your concern about idling. I have always been amazed when I pull off the freeway up to a redlight on the exit ramp. As I sit there with my "freeway hot" engine idling, I watch the cylinder head temp gauge DROP a good 40 or 50 degrees. Idling temperature is NOT an issue with a type IV engine and a working oil system.
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