How do I rig-up a remote starter (and shut off / kill switch) so I can check for leakage and tinker with manifold and exhaust fittings or operating oil leaks?
Original Post
Replies sorted oldest to newest
How do I rig-up a remote starter (and shut off / kill switch) so I can check for leakage and tinker with manifold and exhaust fittings or operating oil leaks?
turn ignition on
put a switch (or a screwdriver with a rubber handle!) across the starter power / solenoid terminals (they are ~1" apart)
now it's running.
turn it off: turn ignition switch off
check for leaks around intake manifold: use a small pencil propane torch, turn it on, but not ignited and slowly move it around the manifold and listen to the engine. if it sucks it in you'll hear the engine speed change. (note: i have not done this, so dont come back to me if your car blows up :) )
check for leaks around exhaust manifold: feel for air with your hand (don't touch the manifold). you'll be able to hear it too
put a switch (or a screwdriver with a rubber handle!) across the starter power / solenoid terminals (they are ~1" apart)
now it's running.
turn it off: turn ignition switch off
check for leaks around intake manifold: use a small pencil propane torch, turn it on, but not ignited and slowly move it around the manifold and listen to the engine. if it sucks it in you'll hear the engine speed change. (note: i have not done this, so dont come back to me if your car blows up :) )
check for leaks around exhaust manifold: feel for air with your hand (don't touch the manifold). you'll be able to hear it too
Run wire from battery power lug on starter to a toggle switch. From toggle switch run power to the + side of the coil.
Turn on switch. Make contact on the starter like described. Flip switch to shut car off.
Don't let switch touch anything metal and don't leave it on if the car stalls.
Turn on switch. Make contact on the starter like described. Flip switch to shut car off.
Don't let switch touch anything metal and don't leave it on if the car stalls.
I have a remote starter (and shutter-offer) on my IM.
I call it 'my wife'.
I call it 'my wife'.
A friend of mine had a second keyed starter switch on the firewall with the key-side towards the engine. When he wanted to do some work on the engine and wanted to start it from back there, he put in the key and started it up.
Pretty slick.
Pretty slick.
Damn slick Gordon...Now my mind is racing to route an imaginary duplicate starter to the firewall, even though I have twice the number of fingers on my hands than it will ever be needed!
This is something I can do...and I like that!
This is something I can do...and I like that!
Wait a minute...Let me rethink this!
I don't need a slick starter in the engine bay. I need it UNDER the car to check on leaks (I tend to think fuzzy when it's past my bedtime) so it's back to the rubber handle screwdriver!!
Thank you Mango for an elegant but simple solution.
I don't need a slick starter in the engine bay. I need it UNDER the car to check on leaks (I tend to think fuzzy when it's past my bedtime) so it's back to the rubber handle screwdriver!!
Thank you Mango for an elegant but simple solution.
hey Ron - i had one of those for helping bleed my brakes. ironically, it got squeeky, so i build a pressure bleeder. :)
Mango, I know what you mean :)
Mango. Hopefully, you didn't just discard that squeeky brake bleeder. It's amazing how useful they can be, especially in the kitchen!
Carl to check for intake manifold leaks, forget about crawling under the car. Use Carburetor cleaner in an aerosol can and spray it where the manifold meets the head and the carburetor. If the engine chokes and loses RPM's you have a leak. Keep it away from the venturi area as the carb will suck in the cleaner and stumble giving you a flase reading... If you're looking for exhaust leaks then raise the car, start the engine and while it's relatively cold, feel around the various seams and where the exhaust tubes meet the heads. You'll usually feel air coming out those area's. If you "think" you have a leak then disconnect the alternator belt when you do this so air from the fan doesn't get confused with an exhaust leak. Don't run the engine for too long with the fan disconnected.
Larry, you're a bonifide treasure chest of knowledge...for which I'm sincerely grateful. I should have first asked 'how' to do the inspection, instead of assuming!
Now, following your advice, I'll be able to tackle the job wearing my white Porsche/ mechanic shopcoat!!
Now, following your advice, I'll be able to tackle the job wearing my white Porsche/ mechanic shopcoat!!
Provided of course that you actually own such a shopcoat LOL
No I don't Larry. My preferance is a scudsy t-shirt and shot to hell Levis.
But i have a friend who once owned an Audi / Porsche dealership where ALL of his shop people wore white knee length coats embroidered with their name above the words "Tech Specialist" Two of the high salaried dudes (with faint theatrical accents) even wore ties!!
Hey, I was impressed.
But i have a friend who once owned an Audi / Porsche dealership where ALL of his shop people wore white knee length coats embroidered with their name above the words "Tech Specialist" Two of the high salaried dudes (with faint theatrical accents) even wore ties!!
Hey, I was impressed.
Make sure it's not in gear!
...or your new SOC name will be " Speed Bump "
when i was 16 (1964) i worked at a VW local yocal shop doing oil changes and such.
the head guy would due a tuneup on a car, have it on jackstands, turn the key on, put it in 2nd, grab the right rear tire, twist it clockwise and dammn it the cars didnt start.
the head guy would due a tuneup on a car, have it on jackstands, turn the key on, put it in 2nd, grab the right rear tire, twist it clockwise and dammn it the cars didnt start.