I'm going to give the wheel a sanding and varnishing or coating of some type on the wood, do I need any type of puller or loosen the nut I suspect is under the horn button and muscle it off ? also open to ideas about what to use to give it a good finish.
thanks Darrell
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Loosen the large nut but do not remove it, grab both side of the wheel and wiggly it , it should come to rest against the loose nut. No one likes to admit it but word has it that completely removing the nut, individuals have been viciously attacked by a steering wheel causing beer to dribble out the side of a swollen lip for a day or two ~
Once you pull the horn button off- isn't it just held on by 6 little bolts?
years ago i refinished a teak wheel on my 67 Vette.tape off all the metal parts and I used this super fine sandpaper,took my time, and finished it with a satin varathane rattle can..looked beautiful Im sure there are many products better, but who knows..
ok thanks guys, I'm going to use multiple coats of auto clear thru a gun with hardener, I'll get back to ya with the results after a few coats for depth.
Darrell
Two-part auto clear coat should be about the best you can do.
About eight years ago, when I made the dashboard on my MG out of tiger maple and African mahogany, I researched coatings. Found a couple places that were testing them over many seasons—one in S. Florida for use on salt water boats and the other in like Idaho or Salt Lake City, making pickup truck bed slats. Each guy was using an array of different products, coating both pine and hardwood test boards left out in the weather for three or four years.
The best setup then was Minwax spar urethane as an initial coat for UV protection, followed by several coats of Pelucid. So that's what I used, brushed and then ragged on with thinner over several days, and it's held up beautifully.
