Remove windshield for tonneau fittings installation?

I got an unfitted full tonneau cover with my speedie and I took the cover itself to a quality auto upholsterer here in town to look at. Didn't take the car. (Stan and Michael B - Ron's off of Pioneer Parkway as we discussed.)

He will put the required fasteners in the cover and the additional fasteners on the car itself.

Without seeing the car and based on my description and his memory, he thinks we may have to remove the windshield to put the very front fasteners in.

Does that make sense based on others experience with a VS?

How big of a pain in the butt is it to remove the windshield to do this and should I order any replacement parts ahead of time (gasket, etc)?

Looks like a straight forward job on my VS, but I would like to know if it is as it appears?

Thanks in advance guys.

Merklin might be the resident expert.
For my part, I would strongly suggest keeping the four adjustment screws for the posts someplace very special. An Altoids tin or a 35mm film container, maybe, and then put it in a place where you'll remember to look for it, like where you ordinarily keep your Speedster keys. Don't leave the screws on your bench. You'll lose them for sure.
They're a just-so kind of length; not too long, not too short -- and you'll NEVER find one like them, 'cuz "Murphy" will screw you.
You can't just use any old screws there either, or you'll run the risk of wrecking the windshield.
Mine got broken on reinstallation after my last paint job.

Come to think of it, a "Notes to Self" thread here wouldn't be a bad idea for some of us.

"Note to Self: Left screws for windshield in the bowl I usually keep keys in."
"Note to Self: Keys to car moved to coat hook, since screws were in bowl."
"Note to Self: Moved coat ... ."

I put in the tonneau fasteners under the existing windshield by using a right angle drill motor attachment and a very short drill. Drilled an undersized hole first at a bit of an angle. Then finished with correct size hole drilling from under the dash. Used a right angle screw driver to put the male snap fasteners onto the dash - that is the really hardest part - trying to get the first threads to "bite".

Can't remember if the snaps were all ready in the tonneau or they were added after final car location was determined? Not a bad job. Been there ten years now.

On the other hand, it is not all that hard to remove the windshield.

Don't remove the little screws through the posts into the frame.

Remove it posts and all - two bolts and one nut.

From the shop desk of Alan Merklin:
While you can get to the top of the dash to drill with a small 90 angle drill I would remove the windshield to be on the safe side...(per Mike) Remove the center post and then the bolts that hold the L and R frame posts gently.....lifting it off the car.
Important:
When reinstalling I put a dab of silicone on the enter post threads and the L and R post bolt threads so they don't come loose but can be removed if need be.
Gently snug the L and R post bolts then gently snug the center post nut, go back and lightly .....snug the L and R post bolts again and finish with a very light snug on the center post nut.
....STOP... NO TOUCH DA' BOLTS NO MORE...DO NOT screw with it any further.

Thanks gents!

I will take your comments and suggestions with me to the upholsterer and we will chart a course.

He will have car when he put on snaps on tonneau right? I can't see how he can put the snaps in the right place without the car there. Placement of snaps keeps the tonneau tight and wrinkle free so it has to be warm and stretched before putting on the snaps. I'm waiting on a warm sunny day to do mine. I'd look under dash - to see if the holes are actually already there and just covered by dash vinyl - ya might get lucky.

Comment to Wolfgang's post...I fitted my tonneau in the middle of August. The fit is so tight in the winter, I'm afraid one of the small posts might break from the tension.

I couldn't get into removing the windshield to add my front snaps. I used 3/8" or so "American" or Marine snaps, not the Tenax style.

I measured where I wanted them beside the center strut, then just got under the dash and measured to the same points and drilled up from below.

Once the pilot holes were in, I used a right-angle Phillips screwdriver to screw the snaps in.

Done.

Wolfgang:

Nothing has ben done yet, and yes he will have the car the tonneau without the fasteners and me standing around getting in the way.

What are the lift-a-dot fasteners called (probably lift-a-dot). Are they what VS uses up front? Looks like 2 near center mirror rod and one either side of windshield post?

Tenax fasteners came with my top. Regular snaps with the tonneau. I had to change two snaps on the tonneau to Tenax. I like the Tenax better.

I switched from snaps to Tenax too. English Tenax are cheaper than German ones.

A large paper punch works well for making holes in the tonneau or top for the Tenax things.

Put the posts on the body first. Then press the top or tonneau against the post to make a little dimple. Rub the dimple with a white pencil (assuming a black top) and then punch at the mark.

Mike, good idea. I use a leather punch tool, the kind with multiple sizes on a wheel, with squeeze handles. Don't remember where it came from, may have been Grandpa's!

P.S.: Buy the Tenax from Carey Hines, he sells them, and I am sure they are the English(cheaper) ones.